South American Wines

Over the past two decades, the global wine business has become extremely competitive and today even the most elite of wine countries face very stiff competition.  All one has to do is look at the French wine category in BC with its steady decline over the past decade or more and the huge growth in the Australian and Argentine sectors.   However, the wine business does not stand still and those countries that do tend to be left in the dust.  Competition for shares in the world market is ever increasing and even Australia must now worry about challengers from countries such as Argentina and Chile.

While wine is produce in other areas of South America, it is invariably Argentina and Chile that come to mind when South American wines are mentioned.  Of these two regions, Argentina has become the most prominent, taking over from Chile.  In recent years, the country has been producing some fantastic wines at great prices and consumers are snapping up these bargains. 

Since the debut of Chilean wine in the BC market over 20 years ago, they have, for the most part, been known for their good value wine with the occasional stellar bottling that captures the wine world by surprise.  Nevertheless, with the vast array of varieties like Syrah, Carmenère, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir being produced in unique microclimate valleys such as Colchagua, Limari, Leyda, Casablanca and others, the potential for Chile is endless. 

In terms of scale, in 1995 there were just 49 wineries in Chile.  In 2009, that number had grown to 210 with vineyards covering a total of over 310,000 acres (to put that into perspective, BC has about 9500 acres).  More than 70% of the wine is exported to 150 countries making it the world’s most globalized wine industry and it remains a wine country that is one step away from achieving world wide acceptance and producing wines that could rival the great wines of France. 

While the number one planted variety is still Cabernet Sauvignon, accounting for 44% of vineyards, Carmenère has grown tremendously from 815 acres in 1997 to almost 21000 acres in 2008.  However, it’s only been the last 4 years that consumers have discovered Carmenère.

Argentine ranks as the fifth largest wine producing country in the world, about four times that of Chile with a staggering 1341 wineries as of 2009.  Yet prior to 2002, wine exports were about only 4% of production.  Most of the wine produced was the rustic ‘Vino de Mesa’ or table wine meant for domestic consumption only.  Then in 2002, an economic crisis forced the near collapse of their economy and caused the peso to be devalued.  This allowed for a massive influx of foreign investment from wine companies such as Kendall-Jackson from California, Codorníu from Spain and Pernod Ricard from France.  With this investment came increased technology and production of better wines and now about 21% of wine production is destined for exports, according to government statistics.  However, the remaining 79% is still consumed in Argentina.

Malbec is the dominant variety in Argentina accounting for 25% of all red grapes planted with Cabernet and Syrah coming in at 18% and 13% respectively.  In 1990, the Malbec plantings were almost 25000 acres.  In 2008, they had grown to over 66000 acres.

This weekend we take a look at some wines from Argentina and Chile that are perfect for backyard or even campground grilling.

HOLY COW!!! What a killer wine.  The 2009 Santa Julia Magna ($22) has everything but the kitchen sink.  A knockout Argentine red, this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Malbec (40%), and Syrah (10%) offers intense aromas and flavours of spicy black cherry, sweet cassis, creamy vanilla, mint, black olive and tobacco with fresh herbs, smoky/roasted coffee beans, cedar and hints of fresh mushroom.  A full-bodied, multi-dimensional wine, its perfect with a grilled steak or mixed grill — actually, it needs food.  Ready to drink now or cellar over the next 4-5 years. An exceptional wine at a fantastic price.

Also from Argentina, the 2008 La Posta ‘Paulucci Vineyard’ Malbec ($29) is an intense, concentrated wine, inky black/purple in colour with buckets of rich black fruit, licorice and floral notes. The palate is succulent with juicy black fruit character, anise and spice with velvety soft acidity and firm tannins. This wine is a real stunner.

From Chile, the 2007 Castillo de Molina Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva ($20) is an intense, full-bodied Cabernet exhibiting concentrated aromas and flavours of blackberry, cassis, liquorice, black olive, menthol and cigar box.  The soft acidity and firm tannins on the finish make this a wine that has some aging potential.  Ready to enjoy now for the sheer intensity or it can be cellared for another 3-5 years.  A killer wine and excellent value, this is a perfect candidate for a grilled rib-eye.  Holy smokes, I love the taste of this wine.  Great for weekend BBQ’s.

The term ‘Family Vintage’ is actually the Palacios family’s name for their Gran Reserva wine, the top tier that they produce.  A deep, intensely purple/violet colour, the 2007 Viña Tres Palacios Family Vintage Carménère is a delicious Chilean bargain displaying aromas and flavours of rich blackberry, black cherry, cocoa, vanilla, clove and cinnamon mixed with cedar, tobacco, black tea and tobacco.  The palate is loaded with fresh, jammy black fruit, spice and chocolate with a hint of menthol, cigar box and great complexity.  Soft, lush acidity and firm tannins round out this spectacular wine.  Fantastic with grilled steak, roasted potatoes, caramelized onions and sautéed mushrooms.

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About FirstPressings

Jim Martin has been involved with the wine and spirits industry for more than four decades. Originally from Vancouver, he started with the provincial BCLDB and discovered a passion for wine in 1977 when he stumbled across a 1975 Bordeaux, which was a revelation to him. This led to delving further into wine appreciation through education, constant tasting and evaluation of the different regions of the world. In 2004, he left the BCLDB for the private sector becoming involved in the opening of Kelowna's first private specialty wine store, Waterfront Wines. He was instrumental in developing an email newsletter while at the LDB and expanding it at Waterfront Wines to include over 3000 people, who receive up-to-date wine news every week.
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