Of all the wine regions of France or for that matter, the world, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is perhaps one the most famous and historic, all at the same time.  The name roughly translates to “New House of the Pope” and the history of this region and its wine is firmly entwined with papal history.  Even the bottles are embossed with the Papal coat of arms.

Located between Avignon and Orange in the southern Rhône, the area has been under vine cultivation since the second century B.C., before Roman occupation.  By the first century A.D., grape growing had been widely developed by the Romans, mainly to supply their army with wine.

Village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape

The name was first recorded in 1157 and by the 13th century, the village of Châteauneuf, with its 1000 inhabitants, had begun to grow prosperous and had developed a flourishing vineyard of approximately 700 acres.

In 1308, Pope Clément V planted additional vine stock.  Clement was already an accomplished grape grower having planted his own vineyard in Bordeaux known as Château Pape-Clement, when he was Bishop of Bordeaux and he would regularly travel to village of Châteauneuf to inspect his vines.  Since Clement was French and because of political upheaval in the papacy, he decided it would be better to remain in France and so moved the Papacy to Avignon where it remained until 1378.

Clements successor, Pope John XXII, regularly supplied wine from Châteauneuf to the Papal residence.  He was without a doubt the prelate who was most instrumental in developing the reputation of Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines.  He was also responsible for building the papal summer residence in the small village of Châteauneuf.  (The castle was partial destroyed during the Second World War due to bombing but the remains of it still stand today).

Existing walls of the 13thC Castle

Pope John cultivated the 25 acres that surrounded the castle but found he needed much more wine for his papal feasting where one feast included 55 sheep, 690 chickens, 580 partridges, 270 rabbits, 8 pigs, 4 wild boar, 40 plovers, 37 ducks and 50 pigeons.  As a result, he contracted for an annual delivery of 1,550 litres from the nearby village of Bédarrides, which is part of the Châteauneuf du Pape appellation today.

Not much is known of the grapes that were planted during this time but in1808 vines were planted from “old plants” of local origin along with new plants from Spain.  Since the growers wanted to enhance their wines and improve quality, they tried many new grape varieties.  Towards the end of the 1800’s, one man, Joseph Ducos, planted on his estate ten carefully selected grape varieties.  These were to become the basis of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.  Those grapes are:

Grenache and Cinsault for sweetness, warmth and mellowness, Mourvèdre, Syrah, Muscardin and Camarèse (aka Vaccarèse) for robustness, maturity, colour and a thirst-quenching taste.  Counoise and Picpoul contribute vinosity, charm and a special bouquet and Clairette and Bourboulenc for finesse, fire and brilliance.

Old Vine Syrah

Today, Châteauneuf-du-Pape may contain up to eighteen varieties but for the most part only three or four are used for the reds, these being Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and sometimes Cinsault.  White Châteauneuf-du-Pape may contain Bourboulenc, Clairette Blanche, Clairette Rose, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Picardan, Piquepoul Blanc, Piquepoul Gris, and Roussanne although only Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Bourboulenc, Clairette and Picpoul are usually used.

What’s more, in recent years Australia has started using these grapes in blending their wines, they just cannot call it Châteauneuf-du-Pape.  There it is called GSM after the grapes employed.

In Vino Veritas

Wine Picks

The 2006 Domaine Du Pégau Cuvée Reservée Châteauneuf-du-Pape  is traditionally-styled with its sweet, lush, black raspberry fruit, new saddle leather, raspberries, licorice, fruitcake, smoked game, tobacco leaf, cigar box and Provencal herbs.  Full-bodied and powerful with soft acidity and firm yet supple tannins, this wine will last another 10-15 years.

The 2008 d’Arenberg Stump Jump GSM is the Australian version of Châteauneuf-du-Pape with its huge aroma of blackberry and mulberry fruit, plum, dark cherry fruits, Asian spice and hints of vanillin that carries right through onto the palate.  A blend of Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvèdre, the name relates to the old Stump Jump plough named for its ability to ride over stumps and gnarled “mallee” Eucalyptus roots and snags, saving valuable time and resources by not stopping the draught horse.  The palate is savoury and bone-dry, balanced with lovely sweet black fruit and subtle tannins and acidity that already make the wine a pleasure to drink now or cellar well for 2-3 years.  Try this with char-grilled meat or paired with pâté, game, venison and grilled sausages.

A classic Châteauneuf-du-Pape style blend of Grenache, Syrah and Carignan, the 2009 Domaine de L’Ameillaud Vin des Pays Vaucluse is, in one word, sensational.  Sourced from 30-year-old vines from the Vaucluse region of Provence, the strong, cherry-jam aroma of Grenache dominates with southern French flavours of cherries and plums, highlighted by cassis, spice and white pepper.  A round wine that starts with fresh fruit and finishes dry and smoky.  Look for soft acidity and firm, not heavy, tannins on the finish.  This wine is ready to drink now and goes with grilled/roasted meat, vegetables and pasta.

Not exactly a CDP white or even a version of one but the 2010 Moon Curser Afraid of the Dark is delicious nonetheless.  A blend of Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne, it is a brilliant pale yellow colour with a tinge of green, delicate on the nose with its aromatic aromas of fresh peaches, apricots and nectarines with a splash of lemon-lime, orange marmalade and white flowers.  Crisp, clean and dry with flavours of nectarine, ripe pear, peach, almonds and minerals.  Excellent with pan-seared Basa with mango salsa