With the 32nd Annual Okanagan Fall Wine Festival just around the corner, it is probably a good idea to revisit certain characteristics that contribute to faulty wine.   Not every wine comes out of the tank or barrel in perfect condition; the stats are that one bottle out of 10-12 will have something wrong with it. 

We can usually identify some of the good aromas in wine and place a descriptor beside it like raspberries, and blackberries or buttery and oaky.  But if you get a bad wine, how do you describe it?  I should point out that a bottle is not bad just because you do not like the wine.  There is a difference between a “flawed” wine and one you do not like.  So, if a bottle does not suit your preferences it is not necessarily defective.

So, while you are tasting your way through the mired of wines, keep an eye (or nose) out for something that just doesn’t seem right and maybe apply one of these faults to it.

Corked  Wine:  A wine is not “corked” just because it has bits of cork in it.  A “corked” wine means the wine has been spoiled by the a chemical called 2, 4, 6-trichloroanisole or TCA in the wine that may be present in corks.  Wine containing TCA has a characteristic odour sometimes described as resembling wet cement, bitter wood, musty/mouldy socks, not pleasant smells whatsoever.  If you get a “corked” wine, return it to the store from which it was purchased or send it back if you are at a restaurant.

Volatile Acidity or VA:  The bacteria that is responsibly for creating acetic acid, which gives vinegar its characteristic aroma and flavour is what causes volatile acidity and its by-product ethyl acetate.  The most obvious sign of this is the scent, which is the smell of vinegar.  A balanced amount of VA is necessary but just as a fever indicates a problem in humans, excess volatile acidity in wine signals trouble. 

Ethyl Acetate:  This wine fault is caused by excessive amounts of Acetic Acid or VA combining with Ethanol or alcohol as it is commonly known.  A tell-tale sign of this is the smell of nail polish remover or different types of glue.

Oxidized:  Oxygen is wine’s worst enemy, and when exposed to air, it starts to “oxidize.”  This results in a young wine that begins to lose its vibrant fruit character and taste, reminding one of Sherry in the case of white wine and Port in red wines.  With white wines, the colour will change from green or pale straw to yellow, gold, and then dark amber although it will be less noticeable in red wines.

Maderization:  Heat is another destructive force applied to wine and is more than likely the result of bad storage.  When a wine is “maderized,” it has been literally baked and will taste like Madeira with an aroma of almonds and candied fruits — admirable qualities in dessert wines but unacceptable in dry wines.  The cork will sometimes be pushed up over the neck of the bottle. 

Brettanomyces or “Brett:  Brett is wild yeast responsible for wine spoilage.  There is a school of though that at low levels it can add complexity to a wine’s aroma, while in larger amounts, it can cause unpleasant aromas.  A wine greatly tainted by Brett can be described as resembling a sweaty horse saddle, or burnt beans.  A wine overly imbued with Brett tends to get worse as it ages.  Ever been near a pigsty or in a barn on a hot day?  Then you know what Brett smells like in large amounts.

Hydrogen Sulphide:  Hydrogen Sulphide or H2S is a natural by-product of fermentation, but it can show itself in a wine in a variety of objectionable ways, in aromas and flavours that range from struck flint and burnt matches to rubber, cabbage and rotten eggs.  It is the result of yeast combining with sulphur and if not rectified, eventually it will transform into “Mercaptans” (the rotten egg smell) and di-sulfides (a sewage smell), both of which ruin a wine.

Re-fermentation:  Re-fermentation, sometimes called secondary fermentation, is caused by yeast re-fermenting the residual sugar present within bottled wine.  It occurs when the yeast is not completely removed after fermentation, so it can react with any sugar that is left, starting the fermentation process again.  It is not necessarily a defect in that it is used to create champagne or to impart a slight spritziness in the Portuguese Vinho Verdre’s which is fine under such controlled conditions.  Otherwise, it can make the wine cloudy and fizzy and can even cause the bottle to explode. 

Tartrate Crystals:  Tartrate Crystals or wine diamonds as they are also called, is simply crystallized cream of tartar and are a natural product of the wine, and form when the wine gets too cold.  Tartaric acid is a normal grape acid along with Potassium, and when these two bind together under chilly conditions, they form little potassium bitartrate crystals, which then settle to the bottom of the bottle.  They’re completely harmless and quite natural and can occur in both red and white wines.

Weekend Wine Picks:

The 2010 Gehringer Brothers Optimum Pinot Noir ($24.90) is a velvety, silky-smooth wine displaying ripe raspberry, cherry, strawberry and cassis fruit aromas with hints of sweet licorice, menthol, vanilla and new leather.  Delicate notes of red and black fruit, roses, violets, hints of vanilla and smoke balance a lush and rich texture.  Velvety soft acidity balanced by the medium tannins on the finish, this is a “drink-me-up” wine, not intended for aging.  Just invited some friends over and enjoy.  This is generous wine can stand up to a number of rich foods.  Try pairing it with salmon steaks or duck Confit with garlic-mashed potatoes.

A fantastic tasting Riesling, the 2010 See Ya Later Ranch “Unleashed” Riesling ($18.90) is full of thirst-quenching tropical and orchard fruit aromas of ripe peach, red apple, pineapple and mango with a fresh, round palate of honeyed peach, pear, apricot, apple and citrus flavours.  The finish is vibrant and fresh with crisp acidity making it a perfect partner for spicy Indian cuisine.

Displaying a light straw-gold colour with a green tinge, the 2009 Church and State Chardonnay ($29.90) reveals luscious aromas of citrusy lime, pineapple, mango and papaya. The palate is rich and full with gobs of luscious tropical and orchard fruit, honeysuckle, creamery butter and crisp spicy acidity. The slight hint of nutmeg on the lush finish adds that little extra layer of complexity.  Wicked good tasting Chard.

An excellent example of what this variety is capable of, the 2010 CedarCreek Pinot Gris ($21.90) is full of rich tropical and orchard fruit such as mango, pineapple, grapefruit, pear, and sweet apple with hints of white pepper, creamy vanilla, and toast.  Fermented dry with vibrant, crisp acidity, the finish is concentrated, rich, and smooth with great weight.  This is an excellent wine to pair with creamy pasta sauces such as Alfredo or with grilled salmon.

One of the best Meritage blends in BC if not Canada, the 2008 Howling Bluff Sin Cera ($34.90) is a Meritage blend of 80% Merlot, 16% Malbec and 4% Cabernet Franc, sourced from low cropped vines at the Summa Quies Vineyard on the Naramata Bench.  Aged in new and 2nd year old French oak, this outstanding BC red offers a full bodied structure with buckets of juicy ripe black plum, cassis, black cherry, licorice, vanilla, black olive, tobacco and roasted coffee aromas and flavours with a hint of toasty vanilla oak on the intense finish.  A thick, concentrated yet velvety texture with soft acidity and full, firm tannins, it is the perfect partner with a grilled steak or mixed grill.  Ready to drink now and over the next 2-3 years.