“You’re a member of the ‘Rhône Ranger’ band.  Your groupies think you’re ‘hot’, even when you’re boozy and “strung out”.  You’re hairy, yet they want you, and you’re always a willing partner.  Is it your Spanish heritage that makes them crazy?  Perhaps, but really it’s because you have a rather sweet personality.  Grenache, you’re the most famous backup guitarist, playing a lightly tannic beat in some of the better groups”.

While this little ditty may seem somewhat nonsensical, it does state the problem associated with Grenache or Garnacha as it is called in Spain.  The most-widely planted red grape in the world, much of it grown on the vast central plain of La Mancha in Spain, it is a late ripening variety ideally grown in regions that have a long growing season with hot, dry conditions.

It is a hairy-leafed grapevine which produces fruit that has a naturally high sugar content thereby producing wines with high alcohol but by and large lacks some of the necessary acid, tannin and colour so it is usually blended with other varieties and herein lays one of the problems.  In a wine world were single varieties are dominating wine labels Grenache rarely appears by itself.

Although it is occasionally produced as a 100% varietal wine, particularly from old vine plantings in Spain’s north-eastern region, Australia and in California, it is, on the whole, used to “fill out” red blends and soften harsher partners, such as Syrah and Carignan.  Generally Grenache makes fleshy, heady, very fruity wines best consumed in their youth because they tend to age rapidly, showing tawny colours and are prone to oxidation or maderization after only a relatively short time in bottle. 

Grenache may have originated in Spain, probably in the northeast region of Aragón but has since spread over the Pyrenees into southern France and throughout the rest of the Mediterranean.  In Sardinia, which has claimed that the variety originated there, it is called Cannonau.  This statement could imply that it is really from Sardinia and was imported to Spain when Sardinia was under Aragón rule during the late 13th to 15th century.

In the south of France, it is the prevailing variety in most Southern Rhône wines, especially in Châteauneuf-du-Pape where it can comprise over 80% of the blend.  In Australia it is usually blended into “GSM” blends with Syrah and Mourvèdre.

The epidemic, phylloxera, which devastated the vineyards of Europe in the late 19th century, indirectly increased the plantings of Grenache.  In Rioja for example, vineyards were replanted not with the native varietals that were destroyed but with the hardy, easy to graft Grenache.  A similar trend occurred in southern France, as the percentage of Grenache plantings increased significantly after phylloxera, replacing the previously abundant Mourvèdre.

In the south of France, the plantings of Grenache have reached almost 200,000 acres making it the third most planted variety after Carignan and Ugni Blanc.  These plantings are divided between two groups, the Provençal group, which are in the eastern regions , which includes the départements of Vaucluse, Drôme, Var and Bouches-du-Rhône; and the Languedoc group in the west which includes the départements of Gard, Pyrénées-Orientales, Hérault, Aude and Ardeche.

In the new world, Grenache is picking up steam with successful plantings in Australia, California and even some trial plantings here in BC.

Australia has extensive plantings of Grenache, some going back over 100 years and has been very successful making full-bodied 100% varietal and Grenache-dominated red blends.  However, while it has a long history in Australia, it is only over the past decade or so that the variety has started to receive the recognition that it deserves.

In California, it was the third most planted variety after Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon until it was surpassed by Merlot.  Traditionally, it was mostly planted in the warm Central Valley, intended to produce fruity, quaffable reds and pinks, but with the emergence of Rhône blends, enthusiastically promoted by a band of winemakers known as the ‘Rhone Rangers’, it has begun an increase in plantings in some of the better-known California viticultural zones.

In BC, the grape is so new that there are only about 4½ acres planted and there has not been any wine produced yet.

Weekend Wine Picks:

This week, the focus is on wines that are 100% Grenache or Garnacha and those that co-exist with Grenache to produce outstanding wines.

Produced from new 5-15 year-old and 70-90 year-old Grenache vines, the stunning 2009 Artazuri ($22.90) is the finest Spanish red I have had in awhile.  100% fermented in stainless steel open top tank fermenters then transferred into fine grain, 225 and 300L second- and third-year French oak barrels with a light-medium toast for a total of 4-6 months. I love the rich, intense aromas of blackberry, cassis, black raspberry and black cherry fruit with sweet licorice, cedar, chocolate, menthol, super, velvety soft acidity and firm tannins.  This wine is a mouth-coating, teeth-staining red with an incredibly long finish.  It does not get any better than this. 

From the south of France, the 2009 Mon Ami Rouge Vins des Pays ($14) is a classic blend of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape varieties Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, albeit a softer, more approachable style than a CDP.  Loaded with soft blackberry, cherry, raspberry and strawberry fruit with hints of licorice, menthol, dried herbs and cream, the aromas carry over to the palate.  Surprisingly dry with just enough structure to make it “easy drinking,” try this wine with rabbit or chicken chasseur, slow-braised beef ribs or lamb stew with thyme.  Definitely one for the BBQ, it is best if you to invite your friends.