Wines of Southern France

Stretching from the northeast border of Spain along the Mediterranean to Cannes and Nice to the Italian border, the diverse viticultural area of the south of France produces some of the tastiest and least inexpensive wines in France. Totalling around 1.2 million acres, by comparison BC has about 9100 acres.

Known colloquially as “le Midi”, it is a defined geographical area consisting of the regions of France that border the Atlantic Ocean south of the Gironde River, Spain, the Mediterranean and Italy.

On the eastern end of this huge region is Provence. The oldest viticultural region in France, it is thought that winemaking has existed in this beautiful area of southern France since about 600 BC. Named by the Romans because it was their first province outside of Italy, the region has never been known for fine wine but it is undergoing an upgrading process.

Grape varieties grown here are not the traditional ones such as Cabernet, Merlot, or Chardonnay although there are some plantings of these grapes. Instead, this region is dominated by varieties such as Grenache, Carignan, Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Cinsault for the reds and Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier for the whites. These are the same varieties that one might find in the more expensive Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines.

The Domaine Houchart Côtes du Provence Rose ($17) showcases ripe cherry, strawberry, raspberry aromas with subtle hints of pineapple, pink grapefruit and spicy ginger, the palate is loaded with fresh berry and tropical fruit flavours and a lip-smacking tang on the finish. Very clean and crisp, this is best served well chilled with simple appetizers or maybe a baked ham.

Costières de Nîmes is an AOC for wines that are produced in an area between the ancient city of Nîmes and the western Rhône delta, in the French department of the Gard. Formerly part of the Languedoc region of France, as the wines more resemble those of the Rhone Valley in character than of the Languedoc, it is now part of the Rhone wine area and administered by the Rhône Wine Committee, which has its headquarters in Avignon.

A fantastic wine from the Costières de Nîmes, the Mas de Guiot Syrah-Grenache ($13) is a chunky, full-bodied mix of 60% Syrah and 40% Grenache. The palate has lots of rich cassis, blackberry, plum and cherry flavours with black olive, smoked meat, licorice, vanilla, caramel, hints of dried herbs and earth that blend in nicely with the kirsch-influenced Grenache notes. The finish is lush with soft acidity and very firm although not aggressive tannins. Excellent to enjoy now, this wine will benefit with another 6-12 months of aging and can be cellared.

Côtes du Rhône is an AOC that covers both the northern and southern regions of the Rhône Valley. Although typically it is only used if the wine does not qualify for an appellation that can command a higher price, almost all Côtes du Rhône AOC is produced in the southern Rhône since the northern region is covered by many well-known appellations and also is much smaller in terms of total vineyard surface.

A classic Rhone blend of 75% Grenache & 25% Syrah, the Louis Bernard Côtes du Rhône-Villages ($14) is a huge wine for the price. In order to obtain the high-quality grapes needed to make exceptional wines, Louis Bernard holds long-term contracts with about fifteen growers. Loaded with fragrant aromas of sweet raspberry, kirsch, strawberries, spice box, leather and smoke, the palate is well structured with its rich flavours of black and red fruits, spice, garrigue, soft acidity and firm tannins. This is not a fruit bomb but an elegant, refined wine. Fantastic to enjoy now for the sheer pleasure of it but will reward with 2-3 years of cellaring.

Gigondas is a small AOC in the southern Rhône region of France. It is primarily a red wine region with a small amount of rosé wine produced. Being a little brother of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the wine is becoming quite prestigious and can yield beautiful results when treated with care.

The remarkable Chateau de St-Cosme is one of the most sought after Southern Rhone estates and the Chateau St. Cosme Gigondas ($43) is a perfect example of this stellar reputation. Composed of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 5% Cinsault, the wine exhibits buckets of smoke, tar, cassis, blackberry, black cherry jam, licorice, garrigue, dried herbs and peppery five spice aromas and flavours. The texture on the palate is full and lush with rich black fruit, smoke, spice, soft acidity, and firm tannins. This is one wine that will cellar for another 10-15 years. Stunning.

Vin des Pays (country wine) is a controlled class of wines made in various regions of France. They are produced using certain grapes and methods of production which are specified by the Ministry of Agriculture. The greatest producer of Vin des Pays is the Languedoc-Roussillon region.

Long been ignored as a quality wine region and in a world of upwardly spiralling wine prices, there are outstanding wines that are generally priced less than $30 per bottle. However, consumers are slowly discovering this hidden oasis. This is the new frontier of French winemaking where many of France’s younger generation of winemakers are flocking to because of the availability of inexpensive land.

A fantastic value Vin des Pays, the Three Winds Syrah ($14) boasts a rich dark purple, almost black colour with ripe fruit aromas of blackberry, jammy raspberry, blueberry, and cherry with hints of roasted red pepper, smoked bacon, leather, sweet licorice, sage, menthol and tobacco leaf. The palate is full of juicy red and black fruit flavour, with spicy pepperiness, grilled sausage, licorice, great weight and a long spicy finish. Somewhat tight, the wine reveals all its hidden secrets with 30 minutes of decanting. Lots of complexity in a wine at this price point.

Located east of Avignon and Chateauneuf-du-Pape is the area of Cotes du Ventoux, home to some of the tastiest wines of the southern Rhône. There are over 1300 vineyards here, packed into 18,000 acres, and producing over 3 million litres of wine. The grapes grown here are a mix of Grenache, syrah, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Carignan, Bourboulenc, Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Roussanne.

The La Vieille Fermi Côtes du Ventoux Rouge ($14), a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan, is full of cassis/cherry/blackberry fruit aromas with hints of pepper, licorice, chocolate and baked earth. Soft, round and supple on the palate with an elegant scent of rose petals, there is a refreshing burst of red and black fruit on the juicy/fleshy long finish. A great discovery for its flavour and character, a well-balanced wine at this price point, this wine is ready to enjoy now.

By far the largest vineyard area in France, if not the world, is the Languedoc-Roussillon region, which begins, viticultural speaking, where the Rhone valley and Provence leaves off, and sweeps westward toward the Spanish border. Almost 35% of France’s vines are located here but surprisingly accounts for only 15% of the nation’s total AOC wine production.

An excellent value red, the Domaine de La Bastide ($10) is from the Hérault district of the Corbières in the Languedoc region and is a blend of the traditional Languedoc varietals Grenache and Syrah with a little bit of Merlot. Loaded with aromas and flavours of blackberry and raspberry jam, plum, licorice, smoke, menthol, Asian spice with hints of candied cherries, dried figs and prunes. Rich and round on the palate with a velvety texture and full tannins not usually found in a wine at this price point, this is an elegant and refined wine worth much more than its sticker price. Buy a case and invite the neighbours.

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About FirstPressings

Jim Martin has been involved with the wine and spirits industry for more than four decades. Originally from Vancouver, he started with the provincial BCLDB and discovered a passion for wine in 1977 when he stumbled across a 1975 Bordeaux, which was a revelation to him. This led to delving further into wine appreciation through education, constant tasting and evaluation of the different regions of the world. In 2004, he left the BCLDB for the private sector becoming involved in the opening of Kelowna's first private specialty wine store, Waterfront Wines. He was instrumental in developing an email newsletter while at the LDB and expanding it at Waterfront Wines to include over 3000 people, who receive up-to-date wine news every week.
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