South Africa, with its dry, hot climate, has a viticultural history dating back over three centuries to 1655.  It was in 1652 that the Dutch East India Company colonized the region and Jan Van Riebeeck, the Dutch commander of the colony, attempted to establish viticulture at the Cape.  Vine cuttings were sent to Van Riebeeck and he successfully planted these in the newly established company’s garden in 1655.

No one is sure what these varieties were or where they came from although there are indications they were French, possibly Muscat or Chenin Blanc.  These initial plantings and the quality of wine that was made from them led to a further planting of vines but on a larger scale at Roschheuvel, known today as Bishopscourt, Wynberg.  Subsequent Governors of the Cape and the immigration of settlers from Europe further expanded the striving industry.  However, by 1885, the vine disease Phylloxera, which had devastated 75% of Europe’s vineyards, found it’s way to the Cape and wipe out the vines.  It took about 15 years to re-establish the Cape vineyards and by 1904, the amount of vines had increased to 78 million.  This is roughly equivalent to 78,000 acres.  To put that into perspective, BC currently has almost 10,000 acres.  Quite a lot of acreage for 1904.

South Africa was once an overwhelmingly white wine country with around 80% of the vineyards planted to white varieties, particularly Chenin Blanc or Steen as it is sometimes called.  Re-planting of the vineyards over the past decade has changed that and now red grapes account for 44% of the acreage while white is 56%.  Ironically, the love-it or hate-it Pinotage, the variety synonymous with South African wine actually only accounts for 6% of South Africa’s total.

The majority of South Africa’s vineyards are located in the Western Cape near the coast where the climate is like that of the Mediterranean with warm dry summers and good rainfall in the winter, making irrigation unnecessary.  Wine is also produced in the drier northern and eastern regions were the climate is drier and warmer and it is these differences in climate between the regions that will determine the viticultural practices and wine styles of each region.

Only a 90 minute drive from Cape Town is the Robertson Valley.   Situated within the Breede River valley, Robertson is renowned for the quality of its wines and while usually considered white wine territory, and well-known for its Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, it is the source of some of the Cape’s most revered Shiraz.  The climate here is very dry and hot and because of this, red varieties like Shiraz but also Cabernet, Merlot and Pinotage do very well.

Just a short distance northeast from Cape Town is the Stellenbosch area.  Not only is Stellenbosch the country’s leading wine area but it is also home to the South Africa’s foremost school of viticulture and oenology.  With its background of a strong winemaking heritage and tradition of viticultural research, it is not surprising that Stellenbosch produces some of South Africa’s finest wines.  Here the rainfall is moderate and the temperatures combine warm days with cooler nights.  If there is one region of South Africa that every wine drinker should know, the fine wines of Stellenbosch make a strong argument for this famed appellation.  While world famous, the region produces only 13% of the wine in South Africa.

Fifty miles northeast of Cape Town, Paarl is a justifiably well-known wine region, home to some of South Africa’s best-known wineries.  Traditionally a white wine region, with its Mediterranean climate and terroir it is now focusing more on reds.  The climate is hotter than Stellenbosch, so the very best wines come from the more elevated vineyards where the temperature is cooler.  At latitude 33.5 degrees from the equator, this region is also well known for its dessert and fortified wines, which are quite similar to the Sherries of Spain.

The Swartland region (Swartland means black soil) is an open, undulating area north of Cape Town.  This is a dry, arid region were the average temperature range of 25ºC-35ºC and an annual rainfall of between 17-23 inches makes this ideally suited for the growth of grapes in the untrellised, bush-vine style.  These conditions result in smaller grape berries that have increased levels of concentrated sugar, acid and flavour components, undiluted by excessive irrigation.  85% of the vineyards in this area are small bush vine with an average yield per acre of just 2.8 tons as opposed to high yield trellised vines.  The end product is a much-sought fruit as low-yielding bush vines produce grapes of excellent quality and flavour.

Whatever the variety or the area, South Africa has a lot to offer the wine consumer.  After an explosive return to the market in BC 1993, the sales of wine came to a standstill.  Since 2001, the category has been steadily increasing.  This is a country to discover.  Be sure to check them out.

Wine Picks:

This wine has been one of the best buys in Sauvignon Blanc for years and the new vintage does not disappoint.  The 2011 Robertson Sauvignon Blanc ($12) is produced in the Robertson valley, which is further inland than most in South Africa where the daytime climate is hot and dry but the nights are cool.  These growing conditions enhance the zesty gooseberry and tropical aromas and flavours so common in Sauvignon Blanc.  A delicious, great value wine, this is loaded with fresh grapefruit, pineapple, passion fruit, gooseberry and kiwi with mouth-watering, zingy, crisp acidity and clean fresh fruit flavour.  The palate is crisp, attractive and easy drinking with lots of tropical and orchard fruit flavours.  A great accompaniment to seafood or as an aperitif.

The 2007 Graham Beck Shiraz ($24) is a rich, dense full-bodied wine with intense aromas and flavours of blackberry, blueberry, cassis, smoke, black pepper, roasted game and leather with hints of tobacco, earth, chocolate and oak.  It is a big wine for the price, ideal with braised short ribs or hearty winter stews.

The 2010 Robertson Shiraz ($14) is a medium-bodied wine showing an amazing smoky nose of spiced blackberry jam with hints of cinnamon, cloves and brambly red berry fruit, rich mulberry and well-integrated vanilla character.  This is a delicious wine, pleasant enough to enjoy on its own rather than with food.  The quality is very high for a wine at this price.  Buy a few bottles to age and try them over the year..