Of all the grapes grown in California, none has had a more confusing history and heredity than Zinfandel.  Its origins had been disputed for decades.  While almost all the grapes that produce wines in the United States originate from varieties from France such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier, one of the exceptions is Zinfandel.

Zinfandel has been called California’s “mystery grape” because its origins were unknown.  It was once believed that Count Agoston Haraszthy, a Hungarian nobleman who founded Buena Vista Winery in Sonoma County, introduced Zinfandel to California in the 1860s.  Another early theory was that Zinfandel originated in England as a table grape, was brought to New England in the 1830’s, and made its way to the West Coast.  Some vine researchers have also claimed that Zinfandel originated in southern Italy’s Apulia region, where the genetically related Primitivo di Goia variety is widely grown.  Further research has also suggested a possible parent/offspring relationship with the Plavic Mali grape from Croatia.

What is now generally agreed upon is that Zinfandel (as well as Primitivo) is most likely from the west coast province of Dalmatia, in Croatia.  In 2001, DNA analysis confirmed that Primitivo and Zinfandel are both derived from a locally grown variety by the name of Crljenak Kasteljanski (pronounced tsurl-yenak kas-tel-yanskee).  The genetic linkage between Primitivo and Zinfandel has been supported by the work of both Croatian and University of California, Davis researchers.  However, despite being genetically alike, over the long period spent geographically separated, slight differences have evolved between the two.

Despite these differences however, the Zinfandel name is truly North American and actually has a longer history in the United States than Primitivo has in Italy.  The first Zinfandel vines arrived at a Long Island nursery about 1829, while Primitivo can be traced back to Italy only from the 1850s or 1860s.  The earliest and only documented use of the name is when a Boston nursery owner advertised Zinfandel for sale in 1832.  It was subsequently introduced to California during the Gold Rush somewhere between 1852 and 1857 and became widely planted because it thrived so well in the climate and soil.

Although Zin as it is affectionately known,  had its early difficulties in popularity, it became enormously popular in the 1970s and 1980s thanks to Bob Trinchero of Napa Valley’s Sutter Home Winery.  In 1972, he decided to try draining some juice from one of his vats in order to impart more tannin and colour to his Deaver Vineyard Zinfandel.  He vinified this juice as a dry wine, and tried to sell it under the name of Oeil de Perdrix, a French wine made by this Saignée method.  The BATF insisted on an English translation, so he added “White Zinfandel” to the name, and sold 220 cases.

At the time, demand for white wine exceeded the availability of white wine grapes, encouraging other California producers to make “white” wine from red grapes, with minimal skin contact.  However, in 1975, Trinchero’s wine experienced a stuck fermentation, a problem in which the yeast dies off before all the sugar is converted to alcohol.  He put the wine aside for two weeks, then tasted it and decided to sell this pink, sugary wine.

Little did he know of the impact that decision would have over the next 25-30 years.  Boy, did he start a trend.  White Zinfandel is still popular today but perhaps more important, it put red Zinfandel back into the spotlight.

Today, Zinfandel is the third leading wine grape variety in California with a 8.9% share of the total harvest according to the 2011 California Grape Crush Report.  It has been called America’s wine because it is a very important variety in the California.  In February of 2006, California Senator Carole Migden actually introduced legislation to name Zinfandel as California’s official state wine.  (In August of that year, the Governator, Arnold Schwarzenegger, vetoed Senator Carole Migden’s bill.)  Even though it is made in various wine regions around the world such as Australia, South Africa and even BC, it is just a minor player in these regions.

Now, more than 100 years later, many of those old Zinfandel vines still exist in California, yielding wines of great power and intense flavour.  It is one red variety that can be enjoyed in its youth, within three to five years of the vintage or aged for a decade or more when produced from the best fruit from a great year.  It is the perfect BBQ red and when paired with grilled steaks, lamb, pork chops or meat that has been braised, Zinfandel becomes a prime motivation for people to become wine-lovers.

Zinfandel Picks:

Lodi is to Zinfandel what Napa is to Cabernet. Lodi Zins are big wines with great depth and complexity.  This wine comes from vineyards with not just old vines but ancient vines, some 100 years old.  The vines are low yielding but provide fruit of excellent quality.  A big wine for the price, the 2010 Flying Winemaker Old Vine Zinfandel ($23) is loaded with complex aromas of black cherry, raspberry, red plums and cassis with hints of raspberry jam, smoke, Asian spice and a smooth vanilla-scented oakiness.   Rich and full on the palate with ripe cherry, blackberry, plums, spice and a hint of vanilla culminating in a lingering finish.  Soft, chewy tannins add to the luscious texture of this excellent wine.

The Marietta Lot #54 Old Vine Red NV ($28) is a Zinfandel-based blend made with fruit that comes mostly from Sonoma and Mendocino counties.  First released over 30 years ago in the early days of Marietta Cellars, the wine displays an brilliant ruby red colour showcasing its young and concentrated structure.  A vibrant wine with aromas of blackberry, raspberry, dark chocolate, dried figs, and prunes, the palate is soft yet full and rich with lots of black fruit, velvety soft acidity and a long, rich, full finish with notes of vanilla and fig.

The 2010 Ironstone Old Vine Zinfandel ($22) displays aromas of clove, white pepper, blueberry, and blackberry jam that leads into a mouthful of fruity blackberry, licorice, cedar, and sweet spice.  With the addition of little Petite Syrah, which gives it the characteristic supple tannins and concentrated fruit flavours, the wine displays more heft while maintaining an appealing, easy-drinking quality.  A better than average barbecue red at a fair price.

Produced from 60—80 year old head-trained, dry farmed Zinfandel vines, the 2009 Bogle Old Vine Zinfandel ($29) is aged for 12 months in American Oak barrels.  Sourced from Lodi and Amador County, this old vine Zinfandel is jam-packed with deep, rich brambly fruit characteristics of blackberry, raspberry, black cherry, clove, pepper and licorice notes.  The black and red fruit flavours of blackberry, raspberry and black cherry with cocoa and vanilla nuances are well-integrated with the soft, supple and peppery texture.  The finish is clean with hints of rich vanilla, cocoa, and mild tannins.  Great with barbecue, Cajun fare, braised short ribs and rustic Italian cuisine.