This week, I digress a little from the usual format of looking at wines and take a sideways glance at one of the hottest liquor categories in BC.  Prior to the economic downturn of the past 4 years, tequila had been on a growth spurt to the tune of almost 20% per year. Currently it is trending at about 3-4%.  Now, granted some of these sales had something to do with that ubiquitous tequila-pretender that everyone in the world is familiar with, Jose Cuervo Gold.

Gold tequilas are blended tequilas and are also known as ‘joven y abogado’ (young and adulterated), or “blended while young” tequila.  This means that it is a blanco into which caramel, fructose, glycerine and wood flavourings have been added so that it resembles aged tequila.  This is done to take the edge off an otherwise harsh, un-aged tequila and is less expensive than aging the tequila in wooden barrels. It is also not 100% Blue Agave, the plant responsibly for Tequila production.

Tequila is not nor has it ever been produced from cactus.  Where this came from, no one really knows although one could theorize to their hearts content.  No Mexican alcoholic drink is made from cactus.  Tequila is distilled from the roasted centre or piña of the blue agave plant, one of 136 species of agave that grows in Mexico.  It is what is called a succulent and is actually related to the lily/amaryllis family.  It is sometimes known as cabuya, maguey mezcal, mexic, pita or teometl and the agave used in mezcal, although similar, is harvested younger than the tequila agave.

The blue agave plant takes at least eight years to reach the point where it is suitable for fermentation and may be left for up to 12 years before harvesting; the more mature the plant, the better its natural sugars.  When ready for harvesting, the piña is cut from its stalk then taken to the distillery where they are chopped or cut in half and roasted, turning the starches in the piñas into sugar.

Some modern distilleries use steam ovens instead of roasting.  The roasted piñas are then shredded, pressed and placed in fermentation tanks or vats where yeast is added to convert the sugars into alcohol.  Some distilleries will add up to 49% cane or brown sugar so they can use immature or fewer plants.  This type of tequila can be sold in bulk for shipping out of the country and can be bottled anywhere including other countries where the regulations regarding agave content are not followed.  These tequilas are called mixto and will not be labelled 100% agave.  A good example of this is the aforementioned Jose Cuervo Gold.  Good Tequila should always be labelled as 100% agave.

All tequila is clear right after distillation.  The colour comes later from aging in wooden barrels or from additives like caramel.  The aging is broken down into five categories, silver or blanco, reposado, añejo and reserva.

• Blanco or Silver

-This is the traditional tequila that started it all.  Clear and transparent, fresh from the still tequila is called Blanco (white or silver) and must be bottled immediately after the distillation process.  It has the true bouquet and flavour of the blue agave.  It is usually strong and is traditionally enjoyed in a “caballito” (2 oz small glass).

• Oro or Gold

-This type of tequila that has been mellowed by the addition of colouring and flavourings, caramel being the most common.  It is the tequila of choice for frozen Margaritas.

• Reposado or Rested

-A Blanco that has been kept (or rested) in white oak casks or vats called “pipones” for more than two months and up to one year.  The oak barrels give Reposado a mellowed taste, pleasing bouquet, and its pale colour.  Reposado keeps the blue agave taste and is gentler to the palate.  These tequilas have experienced exponential demand and high prices.

• Añejo or Aged

-This is blanco tequila that has been aged in white oak casks for more than a year.  Maximum capacity of the casks should not exceed 600 litres (159 gallons).  The amber colour and woody flavour are picked up from the oak and the oxidation that takes place through the porous wood develops the unique bouquet and taste.

• Reserva

-Although not a category in itself, Reserva is a special Añejo that certain distillers keep in oak casks for up to 8 years.  Reserva enters the big leagues of liquor both in taste and in price.

If you want to experience Tequila the way it should be, look for the 100% Blue Agave on the label and enjoy it as you would a single malt Scotch…neat.  No ice, water, salt or lime and definitely no fruit juice of any kind.

Tequila Picks:

All Tequila’s are Mezcal but all Mezcal is not Tequila. The Scorpion Mezcal ($70.90) is a premium double distilled quality Mezcal made in Oaxaca Mexico.  Clear and complex with baked sweet potato, scorched pine tree, grilled pineapple, and raw honey notes and a smoky nose. A soft, sound entry leads to a smooth medium body with delicate lemon grass, dried fruit, and spice flavors. The finish is long with a silky sweet, hot spicy finish.  A bold, pure Mezcal.

The Uno Mas Reposado Tequila ($49.90) is a limited production Tequila aged approximately 6 months in American oak before bottling.  A beautiful gold colour with sweet rich fruit aroma of lemon-lime, dried fruit, cedar and Jamaican-jerk, marinating spice, the palate is soft and unctuous with delicate, baked tropical fruit flavours mingle with roasted spices, nuts and pepper.  Slightly fruity, medium bodied with roasted red pepper, dried apricot fruit and cumin-spiced notes, it finishes with a spicy, salty snap and a breath of heat.

The Hornitos Reposado Tequila ($37.90) is a 100% blue agave, double distilled and aged for two months in 10,000 gallon oak vats.  The nose is full of spicy herbal fruit, white pepper and tart green apples scents along with ginger, grilled pineapple and lemon-lime to round out the nose which is anything but laid back.  The palate is full of semisweet flavours, notably caramel along with pepper, luscious tropical/citrus fruit and the herbaceous taste of agave.