The warm weather has finally arrived in BC and that means backyard BBQ’s. While our thoughts may turn to cold, thirst-quenching beers and crisp, mouth-watering whites, there is one other wine category that has been very badly mistreated over the last couple of decades. Granted, it is probably the fault of certain wine producers who have made appalling examples of the wine. However, it seems that there may be a revolution underway, albeit a quiet one. Rosé and blush wines are becoming the beverage of choice to enjoy when the weather turns warm.
Now, rosé and blush wine are two different names for the same wine with rosé being the European term while blush is a North American name. They can be produced strictly from red grapes or a combination of red and white wines, blended together to achieve a particular colour. Both wines can be awful or they can be spectacular, it just depends on how and what the winemaker wants to achieve. Both have been described as the red wine drinkers white wine because it can sometimes bridge the gap between the two styles, red and white.
The production of Rose involves breaking the skins of a red grape, allowing the juice to mix with the skins to extract some colour and some of the grape’s characteristics. Fermentation then continues as normal for a white wine, most often in stainless steel. The intensity of colour will vary, depending on the grape varieties used and the length of time the skins remain in contact with the juice. Extended skin contact will yield a wine almost red in colour while a very short maceration period may produce a wine that is nearly but not quite white. The finished wines are typically ready to drink early, not meant to age. The whole process is called Saignée (say-NAY), which means, “to bleed.”
Many so-called wine experts look down their noses at rose or blush wines, describing them as “simple” and “lacking complexity.” While this may be somewhat true in that they are not full-bodied red or lush white wines, the better rosés do have a complexity not found in other wines. A short time ago, no self-respecting wine drinker would touch the stuff, as pink wine meant sweet white zinfandel, tasting of candy floss and bubble gum. Then the wine world discovered the pleasures of superb French rosés, Italian rosatos and Spanish rosados; dry, crisp pink wines that are perfect for summertime dining. How can anyone be pretentious when they are drinking a pink wine? There is enough seriousness, if not downright snobbery about wine already. Rosés wines are all about fun and pleasure.
Good rosés are fruity with high acidity and the best ones have the freshness of a white wine with some of the tannins and depth of a red. Out of fashion are the sugary, sweet wines such as white zinfandel, white merlot, and others of the same ilk. Crisp, dry rosés have become the trend and they are fantastic with typical summer fare, barbecues, and picnics. They are easy and light, perfect for a casual atmosphere, with a mild flavour and good acidity levels, allowing for pairing with a wide variety of foods and they are best enjoyed chilled and therefore are refreshing on a warm/hot afternoon.
This weekend, we take a look at some of the excellent roses that are on the market, both local and imported. On a hot, Okanagan day, these wines are fantastic.
The 2011 Tantalus Rose ($26) is produced from a small block of Pinot Meunier vines planted in 1985 and a tiny component of Pinot Noir also planted in 1985. Showing vibrant aromas and flavours of fresh strawberry, cherry, raspberry, and pink grapefruit, this flavoursome well-balanced wine is perfect for picnics or on the patio before dinner. Finished with a screwcap for the ultimate in freshness.
Also from Spain in the region of Navarra, the 2010 Gran Feudo ($17) is produced from Garnacha. Boasting fresh aromas of ripe Bing cherry, cranberry, red plum, with hints of orange blossoms, watermelon, and pomegranate, the palate has just a hint of sweetness but balanced by crisp acidity allowing the fresh citrus and red fruits to shine through.
The non-vintage Mumm Napa Blanc de Noir ($33) sparkling is stunning. A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, a small portion of the Pinot Noir grapes are fermented on skins producing the soft fruity character that gives Brut Rosé its directness, while the Chardonnay gives the wine elegance and structure. Showcasing beautiful scents of sweet rhubarb, raspberry and cherry on nose with fresh, clean strawberry and cherry flavours and a consistent bead, this is an excellent match for fried appetizers such as calamari or light desserts such as crème brulée. Excellent on its own or with fresh fruit, the finish is clean and crisp and begs for another sip.
Back to BC, we have the 2011 Joie Rosé ($26). A blend of Gamay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Gris, this is a delicious wine with aromas of strawberry and cherry with a just a hint of sweetness but balanced by the vibrant acidity, making this wine dry and crisp. A superb Rosé not too unlike the classic Tavel Rosé of southern Rhone.
The View Winery in southeast Kelowna produces a Frizzante ($23) wine they call Distraction. The 2001 version is a blend of Pinotage, Riesling and Gewurztraminer. This is a soft explosion of the fresh fruit aromas and flavours of cherry, strawberry and cranberry with a gentle squeeze of lemon and peach flourishing at the finish. It combines lightness, freshness with terrific fruit intensity, delicate floral notes and bubbles that gently dance on your palate. At only 12.5%, this wine has danger written all over it.