Of all the wine regions of the world, none has benefited from such a string of successful vintages as the Southern Rhone valley. With the exception of the disastrous 2002 and the mediocre 2008 vintage, this marvellous viticultural area has enjoyed a stretch of outstanding to extraordinary vintages from 1998 to 2009 with 2010 looking to be another blockbuster vintage.
This vast ancient region, which stretches from the town of Montélimar south to Avignon, produces some of the most spectacular wines in the world some meant for immediate enjoyment, others for long term cellaring. It is one of the largest AOC appellations in France, in terms of surface area and production levels, second only to Bordeaux.
Viticulture started in the Rhone around 125 BC with the arrival of the Romans. To supplement the soldier’s wages, they were partially paid with wine and when they retired, they were given land for agriculture. Grape growing and the production of wine was a natural consequence of Roman conquests.
The region has enjoyed a resurgence in quality and reputation over the past 15 years mainly because of vastly improved viticultural and vinification techniques. One could point to a second generation of growers and winemakers as the cause for this. The wines are usually blended, with each grape variety contributing its own individual characteristics. Compared to the other great wine producing areas of France such as Bordeaux and Burgundy, the wines produced are relatively inexpensive.
Grenache is the main grape of the area for red wines comprising at least 40% of the mix and forms the basis of the wines, giving fruitiness, warmth and body. Syrah and Mourvèdre add spice, colour and strength to the wine, allowing it to age well.
Some are ready to drink soon after bottling, displaying a shiny ruby red/purple colour with aromas of warm blackberry and cherry fruits, scents of dried herbs such as lavender, juniper, bay leaf, fennel, rosemary, sage and thyme which are often used in the cooking (see Herbes de Provence). The palate is in most cases ripe with an almost sweet black fruit character with dried herbs and a not unattractive earthiness. The better examples often offer a supple, velvety texture on the palate along with a spicy, peppery kick on the finish.
White wines also tend to be the result of blending several grapes, such as Bourboulenc, Grenache white, Roussanne, Marsanne, Clairette and sometimes Viognier. These varieties make aromatic, full-bodied wines, some of which can age very well.
This week we take a look at a few wines from different areas within this vast region.
The best-known appellation in the southern Rhone Valley is the massive Côtes du Rhône, which covers 171 communes (villages). This huge area (almost 100, 000 acres) makes up 90% of the entire production of the region with 95% of that being red wine. The wines made in the communes offer a great variety of styles and are of an extremely high quality.
An absolutely sensational wine, the 2009 Domaine Lafond Cotes du Rhone “Roc-Epine” ($25) is a blend of Grenache 70% and Syrah 30%, aged in cement and stainless steel. This wine has seen no oak at all but is still profoundly complex. Showcasing a vibrant purple-red colour, aromas of super-ripe blackberry, cassis and raspberry with violets/roses/lilacs and sweet black licorice. The palate is full-bodied with layers upon layers of black fruit flavours, silky tannins and a concentration that puts this humble Cotes du Rhone way above its status. The creamy texture reveals a lush, velvety intensity with a long finish making this an irresistible wine to enjoy now but will also age well for another 1-2 years.
Long regarded as the best of the named villages, Cairanne is one of the original four villages to granted Côtes du Rhône-Villages appellation status in 1953 (there are now 16). The 2010 Domaine de L’Ameillaud Cairanne Cotes du Rhone-Villages ($25) is a fabulous example of what high quality Cotes du Rhône can be like. A delicious blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 15% Carignan and 5% Mourvèdre from 45 year old vines, the wine exhibits buckets of smoke, tar, cassis, blackberry, black cherry jam, licorice, garrigue, dried herbs and peppery five spice aromas and flavours. The texture on the palate is full and lush with rich black fruit, smoke, spice, soft acidity, and firm tannins. This is one wine that will cellar for another decade. Spectacular.
The Perrin’s are one of the oldest winemaking families in the Rhone if not France. Their stunning achievement is the iconic Chateau Beaucastel. However, their 2009 Perrin Vinsobres ($25) is a winner. One of the best value Cru wines on the market, this wine is incredibly dense with a ruby/purple colour, the intense black raspberry, cherry, cassis and kirsch liqueur-like fruit is followed by gorgeous aromas of licorice, smoke, incense, leather and a hint of oak. The texture on the palate is pure hedonism with its full-bodied character of black and red fruit, herbs, incense, and spice. This wine literally tastes more like a Châteauneuf du Pape ($60-$100 per bottle). And why not. It is on the same level as a CDP but without the price tag. The finish is full-bodied, and opulent with soft, velvety acidity and very firm tannins, which is in keeping with this top-notch vintage. Cellar and drink this marvelous wine over the next decade.
I would certainly be remiss if I did not mention Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The area around Orange and Avignon is home to this spectacular wine, by far the most well-known of all the southern Rhone wines. The area takes its name from the small village, which means ‘Pope’s new castle’, which was the summer home of the Avignon Popes during the 14thC. One of the secrets of this outstanding area is the amazingly stony ground, the large round stones, called “les cailloux” which act as heat storage, soaking up the Mediterranean sunshine during the day and releasing the heat at night.
An excellent example of the wines from this prestigious region, the 2007 Saint Prefert Châteauneuf-du-Pape ($66) is a blend of is a blend of 80% Grenache and 10% Cinsault, 5% Syrah and 5% Mourvèdre. Loaded with fragrant aromas of sweet raspberry, kirsch, strawberries, spice box, leather and smoke, the palate is well structured with its rich flavours of black and red fruits, spice, garrigue, soft acidity and firm tannins. Fantastic to enjoy now for the sheer power of it but will reward with 10-12 years of further cellaring.