If Cabernet Sauvignon is the King of grapes and one of the most widely planted on the plane then Chardonnay has to be the Queen.  With around 400,000 acres planted globally, it is second only to Airén amongst white wine grapes.  Planted in more wine regions than any other grape, including Cabernet Sauvignon, it is a star in the Burgundy region of France where for several centuries it was the only grape used for white Burgundy and is still one of the main varieties used in the production of Champagne.

Thought to be a cross between Pinot Noir or Pinot Blanc and a wild variety, the leaves of each plant have near-identical shape and structure further aiding the theory.  Noted ampelographer, Pierre Galet disagreed with this, believing it not related to any major variety.  Vineyard owners in the Middle East, who claimed that they could trace the variety’s ancestry to their region, further obscured its origins.  They claimed that the grape wound its way to Europe via returning Crusaders much like the Syrah myth.  There was very little evidence to support the theory.

Extensive DNA fingerprinting research in 1999 at the University of California, Davis by Dr. Carole Meredith suggested that Chardonnay is indeed a cross between the Pinot family and a very old, nearly extinct grape variety called Gouais Blanc. It is believe that the Romans brought Gouais Blanc to France from the Balkans when they invaded in 58 BC.

The many countries that grow Chardonnay with their varied climates produce so many styles from so many wine-making techniques that its appeal lies in the productivity, adaptability and a great ability to retain Chardonnay-like character no matter where it is grown. Chardonnay is a multifaceted grape and can go in a lot of directions, depending on soil, climate, and style of winemaking.

In the New World, where the popular style is huge ripeness, the wines can range in style from crisp and structured, through full and rich, all the way to syrupy and fat. Flavour’s roam from citrus to tropical fruits, to smoke and butter, and even herbs and red raspberry.

And then there’s the whole question of butter. A refined aroma of butter (from malolactic fermentation) skillfully integrated into the mix can be lovely, but to have it slathered on in mass quantity is off-putting. The same is the case with the toast and spice of new oak barrels. This can be a wonderful benefit when used judiciously or a terrible burden when overly used. Too much oak, clumsily added, tastes like a wooden plank.

In the south of Burgundy, in the Côte de Beaune, there is something in the climate, the soils, the vines, and wine-making techniques which produce picture-perfect Chardonnay. When you’ve tasted a great Meursault, or Montrachet, it shows you what is possible with this grape. Even the young, lower-tier wines of Bourgogne Blanc and Premier Cru can take the flamboyant, tropical fruit of Chardonnay, temper it with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice and an addition of stony minerality. Tasting these wines after a few years of age is mind-boggling.

In California, Chardonnay is by far the most widely planted grape crop, comprising almost 20% of all white varieties crushed in 2009. But for a lot of consumers, the back lash of Chardonnay may have started with the California style. While the French style is more fruit restrained and crisper, much like BC’s, California became known for their over-the-top, high alcohol, big, fat and rich buttery style of wine.

However, more growers and winemakers are planting and sourcing grapes from cooler climate regions in California, areas like Russian River Valley, Carneros, and Santa Barbara County. These are areas where cool winds from the Pacific Ocean or inland waterways are contributing a cooling effect on the grapes, allowing them to ripen slowly and develop flavour and acidity that is in balance.

The same can be said of Australia. Long known for its over-oaked style of Chardonnay mainly at the bargain, discount level, Australian winemakers are focusing more on the cooler regions, areas like Coonawarra, Padthaway, Margaret River and Yarra valley on the Mornington Peninsula.

For one to say they do not like Chardonnay because they are too oaky is to do a disservice to the many other styles of Chardonnay that are out there. Re-visit this very versatile variety. You might surprise yourself.

Wine Picks:

Nothing says summer like a chilled bottle of bubbly. The SYL Brut NV ($26) is produced in the traditional style of sparkling wine fermented in the bottle much like the wines of the Champagne district of France. Made from 100% Chardonnay fruit with a splash of Riesling, the wine is aged in the bottle for three years thereby offering complex, multi-layered aromas of toasted bread, apple, grapefruit, pineapple and honeydew melon, pear and peach. The palate is fresh, lively, crisp and clean with toasted oak leading to creamy tropical and citrus fruit flavours with a citrus zestiness ending up with a racy finish. Lots of depth and complexity in this wine, this is excellent with fresh oysters, smoked salmon, shellfish or simply enjoy on its own.

The Drouhin Laforet Chardonnay ($20) is an excellent value in an AOC Burgundy.  Overflowing with aromas of crisp, sweet apple, ripe pear, nectarine, papaya, banana/tropical fruit, the hints of tangerine, lemon and vanilla are highlighted by nuances of clove and nutmeg.  On the palate, this medium-bodied wine has fresh tropical and orchard fruit character complemented by pear and a creamy texture.  The wine is rich and luscious with crisp acidity and a long soft finish. An excellent value in an AOC Burgundy, at least $10 less than its closest rival.

A gold medal at the 2012 Chardonnay du Monde, the 2010 Sandhill Chardonnay ($20) is sourced from the spectacular Sandhill Family Estate vineyard in the southern Okanagan.  This wine is loaded with rich aromas of buttery Fuji apple, pear, pineapple, with spicy white pepper and a lush creamy palate.  The texture is rich and creamy with lots of tropical and orchard fruit flavours with spicy white pepper, nutmeg, vanilla and honey.  This is a rich style of Chardonnay, more in keeping with a Meursault.  The finish is crisp and clean with an almost Chablis-like minerality to it.

Displaying a light straw-gold colour with a green tinge, the 2010 Laughing Stock Chardonnay ($31) reveals luscious aromas of citrusy lime, pineapple, mango and papaya. The palate is rich and full with gobs of luscious tropical and orchard fruit, honeysuckle, creamery butter and crisp spicy acidity. The slight hint of nutmeg on the lush finish adds that little extra layer of complexity.  Wickedly good tasting Chard.