More Summer Wine Picks

The fantastic Okanagan summer heat that we have been experiencing makes the notion of a “summer sipper” sound mighty appealing, suggesting maybe a cool, refreshing beer or a crisp wine, possibly rose, probably white, served ice-cold in a cool moisture-beaded glass.  Weather like this does not necessitate a beverage that requires nor does it deserve any type of serious contemplation or any analytical words other than the satisfied exclamation, “Holy smokes, does that ever taste good.”

Long considered one of the ‘noble’ grape varieties for wine making, Riesling is the classic summer sipper, known to produce wines with fresh, racy acidity and aromatic elegance that run the gamut from bone dry to very sweet.  With its delicious fruit flavours of peach, pear, apple and lime, Riesling complements all types of summer foods and offers a wide range of characteristics for easy drinking.

BC is no slouch in the Riesling department.  For the most part, the wines are the made in an off-dry style but the best have intensely aromatic citrus and tropical fruit with a palate that is crisp and dry and a finish loaded with refreshing acidity.  These are wines that cry out for seafood.

The 2011 Spierhead Riesling ($25 ) is a very well made Riesling showcasing a pale straw colour with green hues followed by aromas of lime, lemon and grapefruit, citrus and tropical fruit.  On the palate, the flavours of tropical fruit and lime are soft and caressing with crisp acidity on the finish.  For those who enjoy the characteristics of aged Riesling, this wine will cellar well for another decades but it is great to enjoy now.

Chardonnay is still the king of the white grapes, global and here in BC.  The intrinsically blank canvas of Chardonnay allows its flavours to be considerably altered by the differences in soil, climate and vineyard practices with the differences in winemaking techniques producing a wide variation in the flavour profile.  Techniques such as barrel fermentation, aging in new or old oak barrels, lees stirring and partial, complete, or zero malolactic fermentation tend to generate debate and lively discussions amongst wine lovers.

A gold medal at the 2012 Chardonnay du Monde, the 2010 Sandhill Chardonnay ($20) is sourced from the spectacular Sandhill Family Estate vineyard in the southern Okanagan.  This wine is loaded with rich aromas of buttery Fuji apple, pear, pineapple, with spicy white pepper and a lush creamy palate.  The texture is rich and creamy with lots of tropical and orchard fruit flavours with spicy white pepper, nutmeg, vanilla and honey.  This is a rich style of Chardonnay, more in keeping with a Meursault.  The finish is crisp and clean with an almost Chablis-like minerality to it.

Chenin Blanc is a grape that is more commonly known for producing Vouvray, one of the great white wines from the Loire Valley of France.  It makes wine that is fragrant, high in acid and can range in style from dry to very sweet, depending on decisions made by the winemaker they have the ability to age exceptionally well.

The 2009 La Javeline Vouvray ($25) is a 100% Chenin Blanc from the distinct wine region of Loire. Loaded with aromas of ripe grapefruit, pear and honey-suckle with hints of lemon-lime and a slight mineral character, the fresh tropical fruit, red apple flavours and lip-smacking, bracing acidity makes this a perfect companion with Cornish game hens on the spit, grilled oysters, lobster or swordfish.

Pinot Gris is grown in cool climate regions all over the world and is perfected suited to BC.  The grape produces wines that have generous fruit aromas, with flavours of honey, apple and pear, vanilla, oak and citrus with crisp acidity, resulting in a complex array of flavours on the palate.

The 2011 Lake Breeze Pinot Gris ($22) is a big aromatic wine displaying loads of green apple, pear, apricot, peach, nectarine, melon, fresh citrus and grapefruit characteristics.  The palate is fresh and lively with crisp tropical and orchard fruit, spicy white pepper, an unctuous texture and crisp acidity.  Pinot Gris is always excellent with grilled salmon and Lake Breeze is one of the best.

Seen by many as being too light and acidic to make “serious” wines, Sauvignon Blanc is a refreshing departure from the trend to over-oak everything.  At its best, Sauvignon Blanc produces wines with searing acidity and a multitude of fruit flavours.  In New Zealand, it became a celebrity when it started to draw world attention back in the 1980s.  It is an important variety in California, Chile, and Australia and here in BC it has surpassed Riesling as the fifth largest planted white varietal.  It is also sometimes blended with the low acid grape Semillon, which softens the higher acidity in the Sauvignon Blanc much like what Merlot does for Cabernet.

Sauv Blancs are one of my current varieties and one of the best values on the market is the 2011 Caliterra Sauvignon Blanc Reserva ($16).  I love the fresh aromas of kiwi, gooseberry, grapefruit, pineapple and green apple with hints of peaches, lime and melon.  The crisp, racy acidity on the delicious, mouth-watering, finish makes this the perfect match with oysters, steamed mussels, shrimps, prawns, crab or lobster, most fish courses and salads.

For summer grilling, red wine still holds top spot.  The 2007 Viña San Pedro Syrah ($30) is a prime example of the Argentine wines.  The aroma and flavour is ripe with lots of blackberry, black cherry, plum and raspberry jam-like characteristics with licorice, vanilla and chocolate.  The texture on the palate is rich and smooth with buckets of ripe, juicy black fruit flavour followed by licorice, smoke, and vanilla.  This is excellent red that would look good on any table and is an excellent short-term wine for everyday enjoyment.

If BBQ salmon is on the menu, nothing compliments it more than a delicious Pinot Noir.  Yes, red wine with fish.  Pinot Noir and salmon are the perfect match owing to the naturally oiliness of the salmon and the crisp acidity of Pinot Noir.  One we’ve recently discovered is the 2010 Spierhead Pinot Noir ($21).  This is such a delicious wine with its soft cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit but it’s the texture that wowed us. Silky smooth palate, buckets of scrumptious red and black fruit, vibrant, crisp acidity and supple tannins, this a wine to enjoy now (we had it with spicy pork back ribs) or cellar for another 2-3 years.

Back in the mid-80’s when Chilean wine began to show up on the store shelves, one of the first wines I tried was Cousino-Macul Antiguas Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon.  However, it was not a current vintage but a wine from the owner’s cellar, a 1974 and it was stunning.  The 2008 Cousino-Macul Antiguas Cabernet Sauvignon ($22) has the ability to emulate that wonderful wine and also marks the 78th year that this wine has been produced.  Look for rich blackberry, cassis, black cherry and blueberry, with a lightly toasted aroma of oak.  The flavour is ripe with rich black fruits rounded out with bay and tobacco leaves.  The tannins add an additional complexity on the finish with a hint of toasty flavour.  This wine great to enjoy now or it can be cellar for a decade at least.

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About FirstPressings

Jim Martin has been involved with the wine and spirits industry for more than four decades. Originally from Vancouver, he started with the provincial BCLDB and discovered a passion for wine in 1977 when he stumbled across a 1975 Bordeaux, which was a revelation to him. This led to delving further into wine appreciation through education, constant tasting and evaluation of the different regions of the world. In 2004, he left the BCLDB for the private sector becoming involved in the opening of Kelowna's first private specialty wine store, Waterfront Wines. He was instrumental in developing an email newsletter while at the LDB and expanding it at Waterfront Wines to include over 3000 people, who receive up-to-date wine news every week.
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