Wines of Argentina

Of the two main wine producing regions of South America, Chile has the biggest reputation.  However, their next-door neighbour, Argentina, has in recent years begun producing some fantastic wines at great prices.  And consumers are snapping up these bargains.

Argentina is arguably the most exciting wine producing country in the world where production is massive, ranking the country fifth in wine producing countries of the world.  However, in the 1990s, wine consumption was relegated to the domestic market, consisted of cheap jug wine and their exports totaled less than 1% of its harvest.  But by 2007, wine exports had reached $482 million, nearly 27 percent of wine production.  To look at how this came about, one needs to look back about ten years.

In 2001-02, due to high inflation and low exports, the country defaulted on almost $100 billion in loans, nearly went bankrupt and civil unrest ensued.  With an overnight devaluation that put the peso at 4-to-1 against the American dollar to which it was tied, which made wines cheaper to produce and export, the door was opened for a massive influx of foreign investment.  Companies such as Kendall-Jackson from California, Codorniu from Spain and Pernod Ricard from France all invested.  With this investment came increased technology and production of better wines and an increase in vineyard plantings.  According to the International Organization of Vine and Wine, the I.O.V., there are now in excess of 538,000 acres of vines planted in Argentina, more than 60% of that in Mendoza Valley alone.

Throughout all this, Malbec has emerged as the variety of choice and nowhere is this more evident than in the Mendoza valley.  Perhaps the most important characteristic of this region is its high-altitude climate, at 3000 to 5000 feet above sea level.  Here, in the foothills of the Andes, is a desert-like climate with an average rainfall of only 8 inches per year.  In addition, because of the high altitude and desert conditions, there is a wide variation in temperatures, with warm days and cool nights, which allows for extended hang time and the gradual ripening of the grapes.  Mendoza valley and its neighbour, San Juan, comprise over 90% of the countries vineyards with San Juan alone producing more wine than Napa and Sonoma combined.

Malbec is not the only variety receiving attention.  The top varieties in order of acreage are Malbec, Bonarda (Charbono in California), Torrontes and the classic varieties Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay Syrah and Merlot.  These are some of the tastiest and least expensive wines on the market.  But beware on the wine sin the lower price points.  There has developed a huge market for export bulk wine and bottled under a export only label.  It might be an idea to check to see if the winery name actually exists.

There has been a string of very successful vintages from 2004 to 2009, which has helped to change the face of Argentine wines and progress had been monumental here in BC with a 4 year average growth of 33% up until 2010-11. That’s when the category tanked, possibly due to the economy.  The year-to-date increase is sitting at 5.79%, a far cry from the hey-days of the early 2000s.  However, with prices in other regions not showing signs of coming down due to our strong dollar, it is great to find a country where the wines are for the most part inexpensive and very good, all at the same time.

Wine Picks:

Every once in awhile a wine comes along that performs well above its price point.  The 2011 La Vuelta Syrah ($13) is just such a wine.  The wine showcases a deep ruby-red colour, floral aromas (violets), black berry, raspberry, black plum, figs, smoked sausage, leather, roasted mushrooms, spice (black pepper and cloves) and sun-dried tomato. With a velvety smooth texture, soft acidity and medium tannins, this is a VERY easy drinking red. This is definitely one wine to stock up on for summer grilling.

You could have great difficulty finding another Malbec that competes with the 2011 Casa de Campo Malbec ($12) at this price for depth, breadth, complexity, and length.  The colour is almost a dark purple with an intoxicating aroma of black raspberries, black currants, crushed dried berries, cocoa, and grilled meat.  On the mid-palate, the wine is pure, supple, and medium to full-bodied with flavours that are an extension of the aromas intertwined with plums, chocolate and toasty oak.  This wine is incredibly versatile with food, perfect for summer entertaining and is a tremendous value.

Produced from Malbec and Corvina Veronese, the 2010 Masi Passo Doble ($17) is a wine that has typical attractiveness, elegance and friendliness of wines from the Veneto with an Argentine twist. Produced in the Tupungato region of Mendoza, the Corvina grapes are given a brief appassimento treatment, which loses some of their water content and concentrates the grape sugars.  The wine displays an intense, perfumed aroma of raspberry, cherry, plum and prunes with hints of morel mushrooms, smoke, leather, tobacco and vanilla.  The warm, smooth yet medium-full bodied palate finishes with soft acidity, firm tannins and a delicious, fruity taste.

Bodega Valentin Bianchi is one of the oldest and most important wineries in South America. It is a symbol of tradition, nobility and quality in Argentine wines. The grapes for the bargain-priced 2011 Finca Los Primos Malbec ($13) are sourced from the district of Rama Caida in San Rafael, Mendoza, around 760 meters above sea level.  One of the coolest vineyard sites in San Rafael, this high altitude climate allows the grapes to fully develop, producing an exceptional wine full of aromas of blackberry and plum jam, tobacco and violets with hints of vanilla.  This wine has great balance, soft acidity and firm tannins which will allow it to age for another six months to a year.

The 2011 Graffigna Torrontes (13.60) from San Juan is a luscious wine with aromas of honey, white peach, apricot, passion fruit, honeysuckle and jasmine. The flavour is rich and full of tropical and orchard fruit balanced by crisp, clean acidity and a hedonistic, lingering finish. This wine is fantastic with spicy grilled chicken or shellfish with a mango fruit salsa. Outstanding value.

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About FirstPressings

Jim Martin has been involved with the wine and spirits industry for more than four decades. Originally from Vancouver, he started with the provincial BCLDB and discovered a passion for wine in 1977 when he stumbled across a 1975 Bordeaux, which was a revelation to him. This led to delving further into wine appreciation through education, constant tasting and evaluation of the different regions of the world. In 2004, he left the BCLDB for the private sector becoming involved in the opening of Kelowna's first private specialty wine store, Waterfront Wines. He was instrumental in developing an email newsletter while at the LDB and expanding it at Waterfront Wines to include over 3000 people, who receive up-to-date wine news every week.
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