“I drink it when I’m happy and when I’m sad.

Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone.

When I have company, I consider it obligatory.

I trifle with it if I’m not hungry and I drink it when I am.

Otherwise I never touch it, unless I’m thirsty.”

-Lily Bollinger, 1899-1977-

The celebration of the New Year dates back over four thousand years and while the celebration is nothing new, the day of celebration has changed over time.

The Egyptians celebrated the New Year when the River Nile flooded usually around the end of September and it was an important event because it allowed the Egyptians to grow crops in an otherwise arid climate.

The Babylonians celebrated the New Year with the first New Moon after the Vernal Equinox, which is the beginning of spring.  This was seen as a period of rebirth and the time to plant new crops.

The Romans continued to observe the New Year in March but various emperors tampered with the calendar.  So in 153 BC, in an attempt to correct things, the Roman senate declared January 1st to be the start of the New Year but it was still meddled with.  It was not until 1582 that New Years was firmly established as January 1st.

One of the most popular songs in the world, which very few know all the lyrics to (especially after copious libations), is Auld Lang Syne, an old Scottish song that was first published by the poet Robert Burns in 1796.  Burns wrote down and refined some of the lyrics after he heard it sung by an old man from Burns’s homeland of Ayrshire, Scotland.  Auld Lang Syne literally translates as “old long since” and means “times gone by.”  The song asks whether old friends and times will be forgotten and promises to remember people of the past with fondness, “For auld lang syne, we’ll tak a cup o’ kindness yet.”

Champagne has long been associated with celebrations and although there is no firm origin of the combination of Champagne and New Years, it seems appropriate that someone should come up with this pairing.

Only sparkling wine made in the Champagne region of France can be called Champagne.  The geography, soil, climate, and the process of making Champagne, is what makes French Champagne authentic.  It undergoes a secondary fermentation process whereby carbon dioxide gas is trapped inside each bottle, which then produces the bubbles.

There are several sparkling wines made in the Champagne-style or “Méthode Champenoise.”  Spanish bubbly is called “Cava” and is made by the Champagne method, is a very acceptable alternative to French Champagne and much better value for money.  One of the best is the Segura Viudas.

Sparkling wine made in the U.S. is called just that, sparkling wine.  U.S. sparkling-wine producers indicate how the wines are made by labelling the bottles as “Méthode Champenoise” or “Traditional Method” on the label.

In BC, we have Sumac Ridge, Summerhill, Blue Mountain, along with a host of others, producing sparkling wine in the Champagne-style.

Champagne or sparkling wine should be served chilled.  Put it in the refrigerator about an hour or half an hour in an ice bucket filled with ice cubes and a little water before you plan to serve it.  Opening it at room temperature gives it a flat taste and prevents the flavours of the beverage from coming out and serving it too cold locks the flavour in and dulls the wine.  Furthermore, do not pop the cork.  To open Champagne properly, and without sending the cork flying and your guests ducking for cover, twist and pull the cork one way while twisting the bottle the other way.  Ease the cork out of the bottle slowly so that the only sound you hear is a slight hissing sound, which is the sound of the gas escaping.

Champagne Picks:

The SYL Brut NV ($23) is a produced in the traditional style of sparkling wine, fermented in the bottle much like the wines of the Champagne district of France.  Made from 100% Chardonnay fruit with a splash of Riesling, the wine is aged in the bottle for three years thereby offering complex, multi-layered aromas of toasted bread, apple, grapefruit, pineapple and honeydew melon, pear and peach.  Fresh, lively, crisp and clean on the palate with toasted oak leading to creamy tropical and citrus fruit flavours with a citrus zestiness that leads to the racy finish.  Lots of depth and complexity in this wine, this is excellent with fresh oysters, smoked salmon, shellfish or simply enjoy on its own.

The Summerhill Cipes Brut NV ($23) is a Riesling based sparkling wine, which makes for a decidedly more interesting drop of wine.  There’s loads of fresh green apple here with peach, pear, apricot, citrus and a hint of toast with a refreshing sprinkling of effervescence and a balance of natural acidity on the crisp finish.  Tart, dry and crisp with toasty, nutty, floral, baked apple and candied citrus peel flavours and a long mouth-watering finish.

From California, the non-vintage Domaine Chandon Blanc de Noir ($33) is a fantastic blend of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Revealing beautiful scents of sweet rhubarb, raspberry and cherry on nose with fresh, clean strawberry and cherry flavours and a consistent bead, this is an excellent match for fried appetizers such as calamari or light desserts such as crème brulée. Excellent on its own or with fresh fruit, the finish is clean and crisp and begs for another sip.

From the south of France, the Antech Blanquette de Limoux ($25) is the original French bubbly that predates Dom Perignon’s “discovery” of Champagne by over 150 years.  This is a fantastic wine with delicate fine, soft bubbles; fresh on the palate with mouth filling fruit flavour of apricots, pears and figs. Refreshing acidity and a long fruit-filled finish, this is perfect on its own or with salmon, prawns, spicy Thai rolls or goat cheeses.

One of the top-selling sparkling wines in BC, the non-vintage Segura Viudas Brut ($18) is the secret weapon in the bubble wars, a fantastically elegant, dry sparkling wine that knocks the competition off the board.  The wine has a lovely, full, rich, nutty style followed by aromas of stone fruits, lemon-lime, orange blossom, and ripe citrus balanced by fresh, clean crisp acidity.  The mousse is crisp and elegant with a soft sparkle, lovely tropical and orchard fruit, good weight of flavour, and a clean, citrus finish.  The palate follows the nose, offering lemon, lime, and orange.  Zesty yet easygoing; the quintessential cava quaffer.