Wines of the Southern Rhone

Of all the wine regions of the world, none has benefited from such a string of successful vintages as the Southern Rhone valley.  With the exception of the disastrous 2002 and the mediocre 2008 vintage, this marvellous viticultural area has enjoyed a stretch of outstanding to extraordinary vintages from 1998 to 2009 with 2010 looking to be one of the top vintages in over 30 years.

This vast ancient region, which stretches from the town of Montélimar south to Avignon, Southern Rhone mapproduces some of the most spectacular wines in the world some meant for immediate enjoyment, others for long term cellaring.  It is one of the largest AOC appellations in France, in terms of surface area and production levels, second only to Bordeaux.

Viticulture started in the Rhone around 125 BC with the arrival of the Romans.  To supplement the soldier’s wages, they were partially paid with wine and when they retired, they were given land for agriculture.  Grape growing and the production of wine was a natural consequence of Roman conquests.

The region has enjoyed a resurgence in quality and reputation over the 15 years mainly because of vastly improved viticultural and vinification techniques.  The wines are usually blended, with each grape variety contributing its own individual characteristics.  Compared to the other great wine producing areas of France such as Bordeaux and Burgundy, the wines produced are relatively inexpensive.

Grenache is the main grape of the area for red wines comprising at least 40% of the mix and forms the basis of the wines, giving fruitiness, warmth and body.  Syrah and Mourvèdre add spice, colour and strength to the wine, allowing it to age well.

Some are ready to drink soon after bottling, displaying a shiny ruby red/purple colour with aromas of warm blackberry and cherry fruits, scents of dried herbs such as lavender, juniper, bay leaf, fennel, rosemary, sage and thyme that are often used in the cooking.  The palate is in most cases ripe with an almost sweet black fruit character with dried herbs and a not unattractive earthiness.  The better examples often offer a supple, velvety texture on the palate along with a spicy, peppery kick on the finish.

White wines also tend to be the result of blending several grapes, such as Bourboulenc, Grenache white, Roussanne, Marsanne, Clairette and sometimes Viognier.  These varieties make aromatic, full-bodied wines, some of which can age very well.

This week we take a look at a few wines from different areas within thImageis vast region.

The best-known appellation in the southern Rhone Valley is the massive Côtes du Rhône, which covers 171 communes (villages).  This huge area (almost 104,000 acres) makes up 90% of the entire production of the region with 95% of that being red wine.   The wines made in the communes offer a great variety of styles and are of an extremely high quality.

The 2009 Laudun-Chusclan Les Costes Cotes du Rhone ($17) has lots of rich juicy cassis, blackberry, plum and cherry flavours with black olive, licorice, vanilla, caramel, hints of dried herbs and earth that blend in nicely with the kirsch-influenced Grenache notes.  The finish is lush with soft acidity and very firm although not aggressive tannins.  Excellent to enjoy now, this wine will benefit with another 6-12 months of aging and can be cellared for 5 years.

HOLY SMOKES.  Rarely do I see such concentration in a wine at this price.  The 2010 Domaine de la Bastide Cotes du Rhone “Les Figues” ($23) has an intensity that is usually reserved for wines in the $30+ range.  A deep, blood-red/purple colour endorses aromas of grilled sausage, lavender, sage, roasted fennel, blackberry, red currant, cherry, figs and plum with hints of milk chocolate, saddle leather, dried mushrooms and baked earth.  A thoroughly complex wine, the palate is super silky-smooth with lots of aromatic flavour, luxuriously soft acidity and medium-full tannin that is not aggressive but well integrated. Here’s a wine that could grace the dinner table tonight with a succulent roast lamb or reward with the patience only by aging in the cellar for another 4-6 years.

I would certainly be remiss if I did not mention Châteauneuf-du-Pape.  The area around Orange and Avignon is home to this spectacular wine, by far the most well-known of all the southern Rhone wines.  The area takes its name from the small village, which was the summer home of the Avignon Popes during the 14thC.  One of the secrets of this outstanding area is the amazingly stony ground, the large round stones, called “les Galets” which act as heat storage, soaking up the Mediterranean sunshine during the day and releasing the heat at night.

An excellent example of the wines from this prestigious region, the 2007 Saint Prefert Châteauneuf-du-Pape ($66) is a blend of is a blend of 80% Grenache and 10% Cinsault, 5% Syrah and 5% Mourvèdre.  Loaded with fragrant aromas of sweet raspberry, kirsch, strawberries, spice box, leather and smoke, the palate is well structured with its rich flavours of black and red fruits, spice, garrigue, soft acidity and firm tannins.  Fantastic to enjoy now for the sheer power of it but will reward with 10-12 years of further cellaring.

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About FirstPressings

Jim Martin has been involved with the wine and spirits industry for more than four decades. Originally from Vancouver, he started with the provincial BCLDB and discovered a passion for wine in 1977 when he stumbled across a 1975 Bordeaux, which was a revelation to him. This led to delving further into wine appreciation through education, constant tasting and evaluation of the different regions of the world. In 2004, he left the BCLDB for the private sector becoming involved in the opening of Kelowna's first private specialty wine store, Waterfront Wines. He was instrumental in developing an email newsletter while at the LDB and expanding it at Waterfront Wines to include over 3000 people, who receive up-to-date wine news every week.
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