Champagne

Posted on December 19, 2012 by FirstPressings

“I drink it when I’m happy and when I’m sad.

Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone.

When I have company, I consider it obligatory.

I trifle with it if I’m not hungry and I drink it when I am.

Otherwise I never touch it, unless I’m thirsty.”

-Lily Bollinger, 1899-1977-

The celebration of the New Year dates back over four thousand years and while the celebration is nothing new, the day of celebration has changed over time.

The Egyptians celebrated the New Year when the River Nile flooded usually around the end of September and it was an important event because it allowed the Egyptians to grow crops in an otherwise arid climate.

The Babylonians celebrated the New Year with the first New Moon after the Vernal Equinox, which is the beginning of spring.  This was seen as a period of rebirth and the time to plant new crops.

The Romans continued to observe the New Year in March but various emperors tampered with the calendar.  So in 153 BC, in an attempt to correct things, the Roman senate declared January 1st to be the start of the New Year but it was still meddled with.  It was not until 1582 that New Years was firmly established as January 1st.

One of the most popular songs in the world, which very few know all the lyrics to (especially after copious libations), is Auld Lang Syne, an old Scottish song that was first published by the poet Robert Burns in 1796.  Burns wrote down and refined some of the lyrics after he heard it sung by an old man from Burns’s homeland of Ayrshire, Scotland.  Auld Lang Syne literally translates as “old long since” and means “times gone by.”  The song asks whether old friends and times will be forgotten and promises to remember people of the past with fondness, “For auld lang syne, we’ll tak a cup o’ kindness yet.”

Champagne has long been associated with celebrations and although there is no firm origin of the combination of Champagne and New Years, it seems appropriate that someone should come up with this pairing.

Only sparkling wine made in the Champagne region of France can be called Champagne.  The geography, soil, climate, and the process of making Champagne, is what makes French Champagne authentic.  It undergoes a secondary fermentation process whereby carbon dioxide gas is trapped inside each bottle, which then produces the bubbles.

There are several sparkling wines made in the Champagne-style or “Méthode Champenoise.”  Spanish bubbly is called “Cava” and is made by the Champagne method, is a very acceptable alternative to French Champagne and much better value for money.  One of the best is the Segura Viudas.

Sparkling wine made in the U.S. is called just that, sparkling wine.  U.S. sparkling-wine producers indicate how the wines are made by labelling the bottles as “Méthode Champenoise” or “Traditional Method” on the label.

In BC, we have Sumac Ridge, Summerhill, Blue Mountain, along with a host of others, producing sparkling wine in the Champagne-style.

Champagne or sparkling wine should be served chilled.  Put it in the refrigerator about an hour or half an hour in an ice bucket filled with ice cubes and a little water before you plan to serve it.  Opening it at room temperature gives it a flat taste and prevents the flavours of the beverage from coming out and serving it too cold locks the flavour in and dulls the wine.  Furthermore, do not pop the cork.  To open Champagne properly, and without sending the cork flying and your guests ducking for cover, twist and pull the cork one way while twisting the bottle the other way.  Ease the cork out of the bottle slowly so that the only sound you hear is a slight hissing sound, which is the sound of the gas escaping.

Champagne Picks:

The SYL Brut NV ($23) is a produced in the traditional style of sparkling wine, fermented in the bottle much like the wines of the Champagne district of France.  Made from 100% Chardonnay fruit with a splash of Riesling, the wine is aged in the bottle for three years thereby offering complex, multi-layered aromas of toasted bread, apple, grapefruit, pineapple and honeydew melon, pear and peach.  Fresh, lively, crisp and clean on the palate with toasted oak leading to creamy tropical and citrus fruit flavours with a citrus zestiness that leads to the racy finish.  Lots of depth and complexity in this wine, this is excellent with fresh oysters, smoked salmon, shellfish or simply enjoy on its own.

The Summerhill Cipes Brut NV ($23) is a Riesling based sparkling wine, which makes for a decidedly more interesting drop of wine.  There’s loads of fresh green apple here with peach, pear, apricot, citrus and a hint of toast with a refreshing sprinkling of effervescence and a balance of natural acidity on the crisp finish.  Tart, dry and crisp with toasty, nutty, floral, baked apple and candied citrus peel flavours and a long mouth-watering finish.

From California, the non-vintage Domaine Chandon Blanc de Noir ($33) is a fantastic blend of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Revealing beautiful scents of sweet rhubarb, raspberry and cherry on nose with fresh, clean strawberry and cherry flavours and a consistent bead, this is an excellent match for fried appetizers such as calamari or light desserts such as crème brulée. Excellent on its own or with fresh fruit, the finish is clean and crisp and begs for another sip.

From the south of France, the Antech Blanquette de Limoux ($25) is the original French bubbly that predates Dom Perignon’s “discovery” of Champagne by over 150 years.  This is a fantastic wine with delicate fine, soft bubbles; fresh on the palate with mouth filling fruit flavour of apricots, pears and figs. Refreshing acidity and a long fruit-filled finish, this is perfect on its own or with salmon, prawns, spicy Thai rolls or goat cheeses.

One of the top-selling sparkling wines in BC, the non-vintage Segura Viudas Brut ($18) is the secret weapon in the bubble wars, a fantastically elegant, dry sparkling wine that knocks the competition off the board.  The wine has a lovely, full, rich, nutty style followed by aromas of stone fruits, lemon-lime, orange blossom, and ripe citrus balanced by fresh, clean crisp acidity.  The mousse is crisp and elegant with a soft sparkle, lovely tropical and orchard fruit, good weight of flavour, and a clean, citrus finish.  The palate follows the nose, offering lemon, lime, and orange.  Zesty yet easygoing; the quintessential cava quaffer.

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A Selection of Wines for Chrsitmas Dinner

Posted on December 12, 2012 by FirstPressings

Well, we have 13 days until Christmas and the staff parties are happening in full force. Along with staff functions, this is time when we host dinner parties with friends and relatives who we’ve been out-of-touch with. Probably the easiest dinner party to have is one that is casual, appetizer focused making it easier to choose wines and more importantly, socialize with our friends. Just purchase a selection of some of your favourite wines.

Over the year, I have listed many wines that you could choose from. To re-cap, here are just a few without tasting notes. Those you can look up yourself.

  • 2006 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Auslese Riesling ($120)
  • NV Blue Mountain Brut ($30)
  • 2010 Masi Passo Doble ($17)
  • 2011 Viña Chocalán Sauvignon Blanc ($16)
  • 2007 Graham Beck Shiraz ($16)
  • 2010 Meyer Pinot Noir ($29)
  • 2010 Orofino Pinot Noir ($38)
  • 2007 Saint Prefert Châteauneuf-du-Pape ($66)

The basic food-pairing guide that assists us throughout the year also works when deciding which wines are best suited to Christmas fare.

Select light-bodied wines to pair with lighter-styled food and fuller-bodied wines with heartier, more flavourful dishes. A Pinot Noir works beautifully with salmon because you are matching a lighter food to a light wine.

One of the main considerations when pairing wines with food is to think about how the meal is going to be prepared. Look at whatever sauce is use, any seasonings or what the principal flavour of the dish is.

It is always great to start Christmas day with a bubble, and a perfect choice is the NV Cuvee Jean Louis Blanc de Blanc ($15).  A blend of Chenin Blanc, Ugni Blanc and various other grapes from the Loire Valley, Charentes, and PACA region (Provence-Alps-Côte d’Azur), which change each year to ensure that the style remains consistent. Look for a bright aroma of apple and peach with the slightest hint of grapefruit, followed by a richness in the mouth reminiscent of spiced apples. Finishes strong with a slightly peppery zest. Have it with Eggs Benedict for brunch. Mmmmm!!

As friends and relatives start to arrive for dinner, there is no wine better suited to welcome your guests than Champagne. A Best Buy Champagne pick is the NV Chanoine Grande Reserve Brut ($50).  The fourth oldest Champagne house in the world, founded in 1730, the colour is a light golden yellow with a great mousse, lots of strong, fast-flowing beads in the glass a with aromas of nuts, bread yeast, marzipan, almond, lemon, tart green apple, a hint of lime, good acidity, peppery, rich and clean. Crisp green apple on the mouth-watering finish, this is a good example of a NV champagne with a bit of age to it. Due to its effervescence, the alcohol quickly enters the blood stream, guaranteeing excited, content reactions.

For the main course whether it be Chicken, Goose, Duck or game, the wine needs to match the texture of the meat. Goose, duck and game birds need a wine with substance so look for Cabernets, Shiraz/Syrah or Pinot Noir, depending on the sauce that accompanies the bird. A roast chicken can handle red wine; you just need to adjust any seasonings to match the wine, i.e. add some fresh herbs if you serve a Syrah or a rich sauce for a garnish if serving a Cabernet. A good bet with game birds is the 2006 Brancott “Central Otago” Pinot Noir ($19.90…reduced from $33.90).  The aromas coming out of the glass are pure decadent pleasure with its rich cherry, raspberry, smoke leather, forest floor characteristics and subtle spicy oak.  The texture is pure Burgundian, soft, velvety and rich with a stunningly long, long finish.

I have found that Turkey does not work well with most red wines so I would opt for a Gewurztraminer, Viognier, Pinot Gris or Pinot Blanc. The 2011 Lake Breeze Pinot Gris ($20) would be a logical choice.  A big aromatic wine displaying loads of green apple, pear, apricot, peach, nectarine, melon, fresh citrus and grapefruit characteristics, the palate is fresh and lively with crisp tropical and orchard fruit, spicy white pepper, an unctuous texture and crisp acidity.  If I pick a red, I would go for something light and fruity like Beaujolais.

If beef or lamb is on the menu, then red wine is de rigueur. For the succulent Standing Rib Roast, a Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc or a Syrah will work.

If beef or lamb is on the menu, then red wine is de rigueur. For the succulent Standing Rib Roast, a Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc or a Syrah will work. The 2006 Heathcote Estate Shiraz 2006 (was $52.00; Now: $40.00) is a classic Syrah.  An incredible wine at a terrific price, the fruit is sourced from vines grown in the Cambrian loam soils of Heathcote, Victoria. This is an opaque black crimson colour with aromas of violets, vanilla, spice and blackcurrants, followed by hints of truffles. The palate has great definition, depth and concentration of blackberry, plum, earth, spice and truffle flavours with a fine-grained tannin structure, excellent balance, followed by a long, intense aftertaste of blackberry, spice and licorice.

For dessert, if Christmas or Figgy pudding is on the list, nothing goes better than a glass of port. The Warre’s Warrior Vintage Character ($15/375ml) is an elegant and refined Port with crisp acidity and less sweetness than other Port producers.  It has a medium dark ruby colour, with aromas of blackberries, cassis, mint, fruitcake, brown sugar and a light peppery spice.  The ripe red fruit flavours are long and complex with a relatively dry finish in this sweet, fortified red.  Whatever the dessert, just remember that the wine should be sweeter than the dessert.

When it comes to a cheese course, remember that not all red wines compliment all cheeses. Blue cheese/Stilton certainly works very well with port but it could work equally well with a Sauterne. And goat’s cheese works much better with Sauvignon Blanc than with reds. Soft cheeses like Camembert and Brie should be served with either full flavoured Chardonnays or soft ripe Merlots.

Above all of this, have a very Merry Christmas.

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Top Ten Christmas Wines…Part 2…Over $25

Posted on December 5, 2012 by FirstPressings

Our Christmas list continues with a selection of wines priced $25 and up.

1. This wine comes from the same vineyards that, in a year when a Vintage is “declared”, produce a Vintage Port.  However, as they are bottled between the fourth and sixth year after the harvest, they mature more quickly and are ready to drink much sooner.  The 2006 Dow’s LBV ($28) has a deep, opaque purple-ruby colour, an elegant aromatic nose of ripe blackberry jam, black olive, menthol, licorice and black pepper spice.  Well rounded on the palate, Dow’s has a more traditionally drier texture with rich ripe blackberry fruit flavours, which leads to a long and lingering finish making it one of the finest LBV Ports available.  It can be enjoyed anytime and pairs wonderfully with chocolate desserts and hard cheeses like Wensleydale or mature Cheddar.

2. Intense and complex, the 2007 Viña San Pedro 1865 Syrah ($28) was aged for 12 months in French (95%) and American (5%) oak barrels, of which about 50% of which are first use and the rest second and third use.  An intense, opaque purple/violet-red wine loaded with aromas of toasted wood, creamy vanilla, cassis, blackberry, plum, black cherry, roasted meat/dry-rub spices, licorice, dark chocolate and tobacco leaf. The palate is full of intense flavours of candied black fruit, rich chocolate, soft, velvety acidity and silky tannins leading to a full, concentrated finish. One of the finest Syrahs on the market, it is enjoyable now or cellar over the next decade.

3. The 2009 Nichol Syrah ($37) is almost a remake of the killer 2004, 2006 and 2008.  A dynamite wine with fragrant blackberry, plum, cherry, and savoury sweet pepper aromas and flavours laced with chocolate and smoked game undertones.  All soft and velvety, it finishes with velvety acidity and ultra firm tannins.  Impressive and very limited on the retail level.  You choose the food pairing but if a perfect pairing would be grilled lamb.

4. The Perrin’s are one of the oldest winemaking families in the Rhone if not France.  Their stunning achievement is the iconic Chateau Beaucastel.  However, their 2009 Perrin Vinsobres ($25) is a winner.  One of the best value Cru wines on the market, this wine is incredibly dense with a ruby/purple colour, the intense black raspberry, cherry, cassis and kirsch liqueur-like fruit is followed by gorgeous aromas of licorice, smoke, incense, leather and a hint of oak. The texture on the palate is pure hedonism with its full-bodied character of black and red fruit, herbs, incense, and spice.  This wine literally tastes more like a Châteauneuf du Pape ($60-$100 per bottle).  And why not.  It is on the same level as a CDP but without the price tag.  The finish is full-bodied, and opulent with soft, velvety acidity and very firm tannins, which is in keeping with this top-notch vintage.  Cellar and drink this marvelous wine over the next decade.

5. One of my favourite Kettle Valley wines is the 2008 ‘Old Main Red’ ($39.20). A classic left bank, Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, with a small amount of Petit Verdot and Malbec, this is a stunning display of rich, juicy blackberry, plum, and cassis fruit followed by spicy licorice, vanilla, and toast. The palate is superb with its black fruit character, spicy French oak (21 months), soft acidity, and a good grip of tannin. Still in its infancy, this will age for another decade at least.  547 cases produced.

6. Just released with very little availability, the 2010 Church and State Coyote Bowl Syrah ($42) is sure to mirror the Gold Medal winning 2009 from last year’s British Columbia Wine Awards.  Again it’s laden with spectacular classic Northern Rhone aromas of smoked meat, saddle leather, rich blackberry, cassis, black plum, roasted tomato, tobacco leaf and licorice with hints of menthol, olive, chocolate and roasted coffee. The juicy palate is full of rich blackberry, smoky/grilled sausage, black pepper spice with dried herbs and a long concentrated finish. Soft acidity and very firm tannins mark this as a wine to cellar for 6 months and enjoy over the next 5-8 years.

7. A rich, sturdy wine, the 2006 Fontanafredda Barbaresco ($45) is brimming with plummy blackberries, black cherry, licorice, cedar, truffles, vanilla and cocoa.  An incredible, relatively great value Piedmontese wine, all the components are well proportioned with this wine, never one over-shadowing the other, from the aromas of cedar and cherries to the flavours of ripe fruit and vanilla.  The palate is supple, rich and round, making for an extremely easy-to-drink Barbaresco.  Drink now–2020.

8. The 2009 Cassini Syrah ($33) is a deep, rich colour, loaded to the brim with tons of blackberry, cassis, and black plum jam-like fruit.  With hints of chocolate, licorice, tar, roasted meat, sage, smoke, menthol and vanilla, the palate is rich, lush and spicy with lots of black fruit, spicy pepper, crisp, smoky acidity and full-bodied tannins.  The wine was aged for 14 months in new and 2 year old barrels, 80% French and 20% American. It drinks exceptional well now but will improve with further aging.  Enjoy now for its youthfulness or cellar another 7-10 years.

9. The 2008 Antinori Guado al Tasso “IL Bruciato” ($38) is the second label for the Antinori’s regular Guado al Tasso, which usually sells for $94+ so at more than half the price, this wine is a bargain.  And what a delicious wine it is.  A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 20% Syrah, the wine has an impressive, concentrated ruby red colour, aromas of cassis, black raspberry, Damson plum, black cherry with hints of mushroom, tobacco, tar, smoke, cedar, vanilla and pepper.  Multi-dimensional in every sense of the word, the flavours mirror the aromas with the same intensity.  The finish is long and complex with crisp acidity and firm tannins.  This could do with a few more years of aging to settle down and would cellar until 2020.

10. One of my favourite white wines, the 2010 Black Hills Alibi ($30) is a unique blend of Sauvignon Blanc and barrel-fermented Semillon.  The straw-gold colour with dazzling hints of green showcases a powerful aroma of tropical fruits, honeysuckle and honeydew melon with flavours of lime, tropical fruits, and vibrant apricot and orange peel characters.  The acidity is fresh and clean, contributing to a crisp and persistent tropical fruit finish.

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Top Ten Christmas Wines (The Best of 2012…part 1. Under $25)

Posted on November 28, 2012 by FirstPressings

2012 has seen an astounding array of great tasting wines and to compile a “Top Ten List” in such a year is near on impossible.  So, I’ve taken upon myself to split it up into two parts, under and over $25.

1.   The 2009 Chono Reserva Syrah ($23) from Chile has been called the closest wine to Cote Rôtie and I would have to agree.  Aged in new French and American oak barrels for 6 months barrels, this wine displays an intense, opaque purple/violet-red colour, intense aromas of toasty oak, creamy vanilla, cassis, blackberry, plum, black cherry, roasted meat/dry-rub spices, licorice, dark chocolate and tobacco leaf.  The palate is full of powerful flavours of candied black fruit, rich chocolate, soft, velvety acidity and silky tannins that lead to a full, concentrated finish.  One of the finest Syrahs on the market, its enjoyable now or over the next decade.

2.   One of the best white wines of the 2011 vintage, the 2011 Wild Goose Pinot Gris ($22) is loaded to the brim with luscious fruit aromas of pink grapefruit, apricot, pear, Fuji apple with peach, nectarine and a hint of honey.  The flavours of citrus and tropical fruit and honey carry on and on through to the soft, slightly off-dry finish.  Superb with pan-seared jumbo prawns or scallops with garlic butter, Basa fillets or Fettuccine Alfredo.

3.   A great tasting Pinot Noir from Burgundy, the 2008 Bichot “Old Vines” ($22) is produced from vines aged between 25 to 35 years old in the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits areas, on clay-and-limestone soils. This diversity allows for the beautiful complexity of this wine.  A velvety, silky-smooth wine displaying ripe raspberry, cherry, strawberry and cassis fruit aromas with hints of sweet licorice, menthol, vanilla and new leather, the delicate notes of red and black fruit, roses, violets, hints of vanilla and smoke balance a lush and rich texture.  Velvety soft acidity with medium tannins on the finish, this is a “drink-me-up” wine, not intended for aging.  Just invited some friends over and enjoy.  This is generous wine can stand up to a number of rich foods.  Try pairing it with salmon steaks or duck Confit with garlic-mashed potatoes.

4.   Lodi is to Zinfandel what Napa is to Cabernet. Lodi Zins are delicious wines with great depth and complexity.  This wine comes from vineyards with not just old vines but ancient vines, some 100 years old.  The vines are low yielding but provide fruit of excellent quality. A big wine for the price, the 2010 Flying Winemaker Old Vine Zinfandel ($23) is loaded with complex aromas of black cherry, raspberry, red plums and cassis with hints of raspberry jam, smoke, Asian spice and a smooth vanilla-scented oakiness.   Rich and full on the palate with ripe cherry, blackberry, plums, spice and a hint of vanilla culminating in a lingering finish.  Soft, chewy tannins add to the luscious texture of this excellent wine.  Great with a rotisserie grilled pepper-crusted roast.

5.   The View Winery in southeast Kelowna produces a Frizzante wine they call Distraction ($22). A blend of Pinotage, Riesling and Gewurztraminer, there is a soft explosion of the fresh fruit aromas and flavours of cherry, strawberry and cranberry with a gentle squeeze of lemon and peach flourishing at the finish.  It combines lightness, freshness with terrific fruit intensity, delicate floral notes and bubbles that gently dance on your palate.  At only 12.5%, this wine has danger written all over it.

6.   Finding a decent Pinot Noir is sometimes a hit and miss, such are the problems but to find one that really stands out is a Pinophiles dream come true.  The 2009 Veramonte Pinot Noir ($20) was one of the hits at the 2012 Vancouver International Wine Festival. The aromas are pure decadent pleasure with its rich cherry, raspberry, smoke leather, forest floor characteristics and subtle spicy oak.  The texture is pure Burgundian, soft, velvety and rich with a stunningly long, long finish.  Superb with rich meat/game dishes with mushroom-based sauces.

7.     You could have great difficulty finding another Malbec that competes with the 2011 Casa de Campo Malbec ($12) at this price for depth, breadth, complexity, and length.  The colour is almost a dark purple with an intoxicating aroma of black raspberries, black currants, crushed dried berries, cocoa, and grilled meat.  On the mid-palate, the wine is pure, supple, and medium to full-bodied with flavours that are an extension of the aromas intertwined with plums, chocolate and toasty oak.  This wine is incredibly versatile with food, perfect for summer entertaining and is a tremendous value.

8.     The 2010 Villa Borghetti Valpolicella ($13) is the traditional Valpolicella blend of 70% Corvina Veronese, 20% Rondinella and 10% Corvinone.  Aged for three — six months in traditional Slavonian oak, the wine displays a rich, ruby red colour with vibrant violet hues.  The aromas and flavours are of black cherry, raspberry, cloves, tobacco, licorice, smoke and vanilla.  Super-soft acidity and firm tannins on the finish, this wine is one of the better Valpolicella on the market.  Very Yummy!!!!

9.  The 2010 Calliope Rose ($17) is a delicious blend of Syrah with just a splash of Viognier.  Boasting fresh aromas of ripe Bing cherry, cranberry, red plum, with hints of orange blossoms, watermelon, and pomegranate, the palate has just a hint of sweetness but balanced by crisp acidity allowing the fresh citrus and red fruits to shine through.

10.  A better than average red at a fair price, the 2010 Ironstone Old Vine Zinfandel ($22) displays aromas of clove, white pepper, blueberry, and blackberry jam that leads into a mouthful of fruity blackberry, licorice, cedar, and sweet spice.  With the addition of little Petite Syrah, which gives it the characteristic supple tannins and concentrated fruit flavours, the wine displays more heft while maintaining an appealing, easy-drinking quality.

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Christmas Gifts

Posted on November 21, 2012 by FirstPressings

Gifts that are wine-related are great for Christmas, especially when you consider that so many people are entertaining during the Christmas season. But sometimes giving a Christmas gift to the wine lover on your list can be daunting, what with the vast array of wines, corkscrews, glasses and magazines. And while a bottle of wine does make for a great present, maybe look for a wine that is very limited and therefore special.

A must-have for the wine lover and enthusiast of any level is a subscription to the Wine Spectator. This magazine has been setting the industry standard on many fronts since 1976. An informative and cutting-edge magazine, it will round out your wine enthusiast’s knowledge in a variety of areas. A one-year magazine subscription is $80 CDN. It can be both ordered on-line at Wine Spectator.com.

Another great magazine is the Wine Advocate. Founded by Robert Parker Jr. in 1978, the Wine Advocate is loaded with wine information, article, tasting notes and ratings. Many wine pundits state that The Wine Advocate exerts the most significant influence on the wine consumer’s buying habits and the New York Times wine critic Frank Prial asserts that “Robert W. Parker Jr. is the most influential wine critic in the world” although many dispute this. A subscription to the on-line edition of the Wine Advocate is $99USD for one year, $29 for a ninety-day trial or $12 for a one month trial. Or try the magazine format for $90USD for 6 issues. These can be ordered on-line at eRobertParker.com.

While these publications deal exclusively with international wines, there is very little Canadian content available. If you are looking for more Canadian content, i.e. ratings and tasting notes on Canadian wines, then the Wine Access magazine is the one to pick. Published in Canada, Wine Access is written by Canadians and covers both international and Canadian wines. The magazine is edited by Vancouver Sun wine writer and Wine Access Editor-in-Chief Anthony Gismondi, one of North America’s most influential wine critics together with some of Canada’s most experienced wine writers. A one-year gift subscription includes:

  • 1 year subscription to Wine Access Magazine
  • The 2013 Canadian Wine Annual
  • Buyer’s Guide+
  • Wine Access 6-bottle tote bag

Wine related books are an excellent way to say Merry Christmas. I still treasure one of my first books on wine given to me by my brother and sister-in-law back in 1983. The name of that book is Alexis Lichine’s New Encyclopedia of Wines & Spirits. You might be able to find it through Amazon.com.

One of the best selling wine books and now in its 36th year of publication, the 2013 Hugh Johnson Pocket Wine Book ($18 at Mosaic Books) is an excellent book for the neophyte.

Universally acknowledged as the world’s pre-eminent authority on wine, Mr. Johnson has been writing about wine since 1960. Indispensable for shopping and very handy to carry, the guide boasts up-to-date news on more than 6,000+ wines from over 50 countries. What I like about this book as opposed to others are the countless wine recommendations, and tips on pairing foods with the right wines. It is the perfect companion for the wine enthusiast and every year this pocket guide is a global bestseller, reaching number one in the market.

For something also with a Canadian flare to it, the 3rd edition of John Schreiner’s Okanagan Wine Guide ($20 at Mosaic Books) is a compact 248-page paperback, providing concise insider profiles of each of the region’s 129 wineries and for the first time covers winery producers from Creston, BC. Mr. Schreiner is the best-known Canadian wine writer, having written 15 books on the subject of Canadian wine and its industry.

One of the hottest items for wine is the Riedel (rhymes with needle) stemless glassware and the must-have is the “O” Series Cabernet-Merlot wine tumbler. Wine tumblers have been used for centuries as an all-round drinking vessel and are now a fun yet sophisticated wine accessory. A great, all-purpose red wine glass, the “O” Series is based on the more expensive, benchmark shapes of the Riedel Vinum Series.

If books and magazines are not what you are looking for, how about a wine course?

A Wine Appreciation course is probably the best way to acquire firsthand knowledge of wine. A course of this type involves tasting wines from different regions around the world and is usually in a very informal, relaxed atmosphere.

The UK based Wine and Spirit Education Trust offers a series of four internationally recognized wine courses consisting of the Foundation, Intermediate, Advanced and Diploma courses. Taught by WSET Educator Rhys Pender, these programs are recognized as the pre-eminent professional wine and spirit educational courses and are the gold standard in wine education.

WSET classes are offered at Waterfront Wines Restaurant & Wine Bar and consist of three levels of programs. The Foundation Certificate is perfect for those who are just getting into wine or are entering the wine/hospitality industry. It offers the beginner the confidence to talk about wine with customers if you are in the industry or the ability to discuss the subject on a personal level. This course also provides an extensive tutorial on how to taste like a professional. Contact Rhys Pender on his website, Wine Plus or 250-499-8891 or email him at rhys@wineplus.ca.

From February 5th—Mar 12th at Okanagan College in Kelowna, Sandhill/Calona Head Winemaker Howard Soon will teach a 4-week course on Wine Appreciation. Try wines from all over the world and learn to taste and judge wines in order to squeeze the most from your wine buying dollar. You will learn the difference between myth and mystique in the wine business. Register on-line through the Okanagan College website, Continuing Studies.

If all you are after is a great bottle of wine, over the coming weeks we’ll be looking at a selection of wines in varying price categories. Most are available in good supply but a few a very limited.

A great QPR (quality-price-ratio) wine, the 2010 San Rocco Feudo Badala Negroamaro ($17) over-delivers for the price.  Chock-a-block full of juicy black cherry and blackberry aromas with violets, roses, plum/raspberry, toasty oak, and chocolate, the palate is rich, soft and round with firm acidity and tannins.  This is the quintessential Italian bargain wine perfect with a rich pasta sauce or pizza.

A unique blend of two unheard-of Sicilian varieties, Frappato and Nerello Mascalese, the 2011 Terre di Giumara Frappato Nerello Mascalese ($16.90) is a delicious wine displaying an opaque inky purple/red colour with aromas of anise, blackberry, cassis, baked earth, tobacco leaf and Herbes de Provence. The palate is silky smooth with soft acidity, firm tannins and a lush concentrated mouth-feel.  This is a meat-lover’s perfect partner; standing rib roasts, grilled steaks, lamb roast, back ribs, etc.  It’s ready to enjoy now but has the stuffing to cellar for another year.”

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Wines for cooler days (and nights)

Posted on November 14, 2012 by FirstPressings

During the cooler winter months, the types of wine we buy tend to shift.  Gone is the crisp, mouth watering whites or the juicy reds that we enjoyed when the temperature was warmer.  When it is cooler, it gives me cause to search for some heartier reds to enjoy with the hearty, richer dishes.  Right now I am on the lookout for some full-bodied Zinfandel and hearty Italian reds.

A lot of consumers are not so seasonal when it comes to wine.  Some will enjoy white wine all year long, while others start a meal with white and finish with red.

The foods we eat in the colder months are very well suited to red wines.  Hearty dishes such as beef stew, braised lamb shanks, a rich meat sauce with pasta, and even roasted fall root vegetables, all these foods go well together with red wines.  During the winter we welcome warm fragrant aromas throughout the house, making our mouths water.

When serving red wine, the temperature of the wine is quite often too warm.  The ambient room temperature – around 70ºC – can sometimes make the wine feel hot and heavy with the alcohol in the wine becoming quite pronounced.  In reality, the best temperature to serve red wine at is between 55º and 65º, quite a bit cooler than standard room temperature.  Putting the wine in the fridge for 10-15 minutes will bring the temperature down.  Clipping a wine thermometer onto the bottle will give you a somewhat accurate measurement of the temperature.

With the holidays lying in wait and the money associated with it, it is time to think about some value wines to tide us over.  There is a huge supply of excellent wine on the market, with something for everyone’s tastes and budget.

Australia has fallen off drastically in terms of popularity although there is still quality at just about all price points.  The Category has been steadily dropping over the past 4-5 years and according to latest LDB Quarterly Review (September 2012), the category has not even been able to climb into a positive change.  It may be that consumers are tiring of the sweet, jammy style of wine, popularized by Yellow Tail and its imitators.

Argentina was the heir apparent to Australia but even that country has not been immune to consumer’s tastes. Value for money it is still one of the best with consumers discovering the Malbec grape.  In 2009, that helped to drive sales up over 40%.  That figure has now dropping to a disappointing 3.8%.

There are great tasting and great value wines from Chile but the sales in that category are not in the positive either.  Still, there are delicious wines to be had.

Sales of French wine have never been spectacular but they are in the positive due in part to the fabulous value of the wines from their southern region.  Wines here are produced from regional varieties such as Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre.

Spain was never impressive as far as sales, either.  However, being a world-class producer of wine, the country offers history and tradition, which when combined with modern winemaking technology produces wines of unique character.  Value has always been a term

associated with Spanish wines and in recent years, major investments and developments have helped push Spanish wines into a positive.

New Zealand is currently the most popular wine category in BC. Sales have been on a growth spurt over the past few years so that now they are up an astounding 23%.

Closer to home, California has come into a positive after years of flat sales.

So while you are cooking up some great lamb or beef stews, wonderful casseroles, slow roasted lamb shanks or a delicious, roasted boneless pork loin, consider searching for that perfect wine to match.  Great wintery food and hearty red wine just seem to go hand in hand.

Although most wines are ready to enjoy now, you will find that if you leave some wines to age for a few years of bottle age it will make a great difference, particularly with Cabernet Sauvignon.  Laying the wines down will allow them to develop and make for even better enjoyment next winter.

Weekend Wine Picks:

You could have great difficulty finding another Malbec that competes with the 2011 Casa de Campo Malbec ($12) at this price for depth, breadth, complexity, and length.  The colour is almost a dark purple with an intoxicating aroma of black raspberries, black currants, crushed dried berries, cocoa, and grilled meat.  On the mid-palate, the wine is pure, supple, and medium to full-bodied with flavours that are an extension of the aromas intertwined with plums, chocolate and toasty oak.  This wine is incredibly versatile with food, perfect for summer entertaining and is a tremendous value.

Intense and complex, the 2007 Viña San Pedro 1865 Syrah ($28) was aged for 12 months in French (95%) and American (5%) oak barrels, of which about 50% of which are first use and the rest second and third use.  An intense, opaque purple/violet-red wine loaded with aromas of toasted wood, creamy vanilla, cassis, blackberry, plum, black cherry, roasted meat/dry-rub spices, licorice, dark chocolate and tobacco leaf. The palate is full of intense flavours of candied black fruit, rich chocolate, soft, velvety acidity and silky tannins leading to a full, concentrated finish. One of the finest Syrahs on the market, it is enjoyable now or cellar over the next decade.

The 2007 Graham Beck Shiraz ($20…reduced from $29) is a rich, dense full-bodied wine with intense aromas and flavours of blackberry, blueberry, cassis, smoke, black pepper, roasted game and leather with hints of tobacco, earth, chocolate and oak.  It is a huge wine for the price, ideal with braised short ribs or hearty winter stews.

Finding a decent Pinot Noir is sometimes a frustrating venture, such are the problems in producing wine from the grape but to find one that really stands out is a Pinophiles dream come true.  The 2006 Brancott “Central Otago” Pinot Noir ($19.90…reduced from $33.90) is an excellent example of what this variety is capable of when grown properly and handled with kid gloves during production.  The aromas coming out of the glass are pure decadent pleasure with its rich cherry, raspberry, smoke leather, forest floor characteristics and subtle spicy oak.  The texture is pure Burgundian, soft, velvety and rich with a stunningly long, long finish.  Superb with rich meat/game dishes with mushroom-based sauces.

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48 Days until Christmas

Posted on November 7, 2012 by FirstPressings

There are exactly 48 days left until Christmas and while some retail establishments have been accused of jumping the gun, the fact is Christmas has a huge impact on a retailer’s bottom line. After almost five years of economic lethargy, retailers may finally have reason to expect a Merry Christmas, especially if they have developed an online presence. In Deloitte-Touches’ annual Canadian holiday retail outlook survey, a growth of 1-2% is predicted over last year.

Deloitte also states that they anticipate almost 60% of Canadians will use the internet for their Christmas shopping, whether it’s researching prices or conducting product research,   moving away from the traditional bricks-and-mortar. And over 55% of Canadians plan to complete some of their shopping online.

However, Canadians are slow to embrace using mobile applications on their smart phones and tablets for their shopping.  Only 40% of smart phone/tablet owners plan to complete their purchases with these devices.  But it is interesting to note that 70% will use their smart phone/tablet for research.  Purchases over these mobile devices could very well increase in the coming years as this is where internet purchases were just a few years ago.

While the most common type of Christmas wine-related present is a good bottle of the grape, there are now numerous other wine associated gifts available.

In order to get the most enjoyment out of wine, not only is decanting and decanters de rigueur, so is choosing the proper wine glasses. There are many types and styles on the market, from the somewhat expensive hand-blown, lead crystal to the old saucier shaped champagne glass. Choosing a good set of glassware is something new wine lovers learn to appreciate early in their education. However, it is not necessary to take out a bank loan just to buy glasses or stemware as long as a few simple rules are followed.

When choosing wine glasses, pay attention to the bowl of the glass. This is where the wine will rest and to properly appreciate the wine, the glass should be clear, without any designs or logos on them, and not tinted so that the true colour of the wine shows through. The colour can tell you quite a bit from the type of grapes used and about the age of the wine. Beautifully cut crystal may look nice on the table but I personally feel that they are completely inappropriate for the appreciation of wine. Use these types as water glasses.

In stemware, size really does matter. A proper glass should be of sufficient size to allow a fair measure of wine to be poured so that half of the glass is still empty, allowing the wine to be swirled without spilling over. This swirling releases aromas and flavours which is very important to the development of the wine. A glass of ten to fourteen ounces works very well.

The International Organization for Standardization or ISO has recognized a particular style of glass that has become the benchmark for international wine judging competitions and is extremely suitable for everyday home use. The type of glass is the standard tulip shape with a lead content of about 9%. The size should be about 6 inches tall with a two inch stem, a four inch bowl, about two and a half inches at its widest diameter and two inches at the rim. This shape allows the aroma to be focused towards the nose and prevents it from escaping.

In days gone past, the traditional Champagne glass was the saucer-type glass patterned some say after a pair of Marie Antoinette’s attributes. While this provides a nice little bit of wine trivia, there is no evidence that this is true and that shape does absolutely nothing for the wine. The classic flute glass, which is tall and narrow, prolongs the chill and bubbles wine much better. A standard tulip shaped glass will suffice in a pinch.

No matter which type of glass you use, cleaning them is very important. If you wash them by hand, make sure they are done separately from other dishes and use the hottest water possible with very little detergent. Rinse the glasses thoroughly. Any residual soap will affect the next glass of wine. If using a dishwasher, again wash them separately and use no detergent. The heat of the water will clean and sterilize them. Remove any water spots with a soft lint or chamois cloth before storing.

Some wine drinkers agree that different types of wine demand different styles of glasses. This has led to the development of glasses for Syrah, Pinot Noir, Brunello and others. Riedel is the name most synonymous with these glasses and while some may say its great marketing, there is truth in that wines benefit by using a specific glass. While some of Riedel’s glasses are as expensive as a bottle of Champagne, there are some value-orientated ones available. There also other producers of this type of glassware so check them out also. Whether you need to have a glass for every wine that is produced may be over-kill but to each their own.

Wine news:

Advanced tickets for the 35th Vancouver International Wine Festival went on sale November 1st. The Festival runs from February 25th to March 3rd, 2013 and features 176 wineries, with 63 of these from the Theme Region of California.

The festival attracts some of the biggest names in the international wine industry and is firmly established as Canada’s, if not North America’s, premier wine event. It is an extremely rare opportunity to meet owners, winemakers, and senior winery representatives from around the globe.

Tickets for International Festival Tastings and other advance tickets events are available online  at www.vanwinefest.ca or by phoning 604-873-3311 or toll free at 1-877-321-3121 or in person at the VanWineFest Box Office, #305-456 West Broadway, Vancouver.

Weekend Wine Picks:

A spectacular wine, the 2006 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Auslese Riesling ($120 PWS…Reduced by $40) is full of juicy peach, red apple and grapefruit with hints of mineral, honey and petrol. A classic Riesling in every sense of the word, this is one of the finest Rieslings on the market. Try pairing with spicy Thai or Indian fare. This wine has the potential age for 20 or 30 years. This is a great opportunity to give a rare, very special bottle of wine for Christmas to the wine aficionado in your family.

The Perrin’s are one of the oldest winemaking families in the Rhone if not France.  Their stunning achievement is the iconic Chateau Beaucastel.  However, their 2009 Perrin Vinsobres ($25) is a winner.  One of the best value Cru wines on the market, this wine is incredibly dense with a ruby/purple colour, the intense black raspberry, cherry, cassis and kirsch liqueur-like fruit is followed by gorgeous aromas of licorice, smoke, incense, leather and a hint of oak. The texture on the palate is pure hedonism with its full-bodied character of black and red fruit, herbs, incense, and spice.  This wine literally tastes more like a Châteauneuf du Pape ($60-$100 per bottle).  And why not.  It is on the same level as a CDP but without the price tag.  The finish is full-bodied, and opulent with soft, velvety acidity and very firm tannins, which is in keeping with this top-notch vintage.  Cellar and drink this marvelous wine over the next decade.

Loaded to the brim with luscious fruit aromas, the 2011 Wild Goose Pinot Gris ($22) is full of pink grapefruit, apricot, pear, Fuji apple with peach, nectarine and a hint of honey.  The flavours of citrus and tropical fruit and honey carry on and on through to the soft, slightly off-dry finish.  Superb with pan-seared jumbo prawns or scallops with garlic butter, Basa fillets or Fettuccine Alfredo.

Produced from Malbec and Corvina Veronese, the 2010 Masi Passo Doble ($17) is a wine that has typical attractiveness, elegance and friendliness of wines from the Veneto with an Argentine twist. Produced in the Tupungato region of Mendoza, the Corvina grapes are given a brief appassimento treatment, which loses some of their water content and concentrates the grape sugars.  The wine displays an intense, perfumed aroma of raspberry, cherry, plum and prunes with hints of morel mushrooms, smoke, leather, tobacco and vanilla.  The warm, smooth yet medium-full bodied palate finishes with soft acidity, firm tannins and a delicious, fruity taste.

Lodi is to Zinfandel what Napa is to Cabernet. Lodi Zins are delicious wines with great depth and complexity.  This wine comes from vineyards with not just old vines but ancient vines, some 100 years old.  The vines are low yielding but provide fruit of excellent quality.  A big wine for the price, the 2010 Flying Winemaker Old Vine Zinfandel ($23) is loaded with complex aromas of black cherry, raspberry, red plums and cassis with hints of raspberry jam, smoke, Asian spice and a smooth vanilla-scented oakiness.   Rich and full on the palate with ripe cherry, blackberry, plums, spice and a hint of vanilla culminating in a lingering finish.  Soft, chewy tannins add to the luscious texture of this excellent wine.  Great with a rotisserie grilled pepper-crusted roast.

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Bordeaux

Posted on October 31, 2012 by FirstPressings

Bordeaux is a magical name.  Of all the wine regions in the world, it is without a doubt the most famous.  It is a city, a region and a source of fine wines all at the same time and also an influential, incontestable brand.  A millionaire chateau owner in Margaux and a tiny debt-ridden winemaker from another part of the area can both boast, “The wine I produce is Bordeaux.”

Among the wine cognoscenti, Bordeaux has the reputation for producing the most age-worthy wines on the planet.  Wine cellars around the world are filled with different chateaus of the region and certain vintages have been known to age for decades, if not centuries.

Situated in the southwest corner of France on the banks of the Garonne River, the area takes its name from the largest city in the region.  It is a large district with around 250,000 acres under vine.  Compare this to BC with just less than 10,000 acres.  Although there are perhaps one hundred producers who have achieved worldwide fame, there are about 20,000 producers making wine in Bordeaux and approximately 850 million bottles are produced each year.

The Bordelais have been at it for over 2000 years, when the Romans brought viticulture and wine making to the ancient Gaullic tribes around 56 BC.  Called Burdigala after an ancient Celtic tribe, the Bituriges Vivisci, the Romans were quite happy to leave the Bituriges alone.  However, any wine that was drunk was shipped from Rome, which the Bituriges Vivisci paid dearly for.  So, the wealthy and notable of the Bituriges Vivisci decided to plant vineyards.  The prevailing theory is that the first vine cuttings that were brought to Bordeaux originated in the Cantabrian region of north-western Spain.

The history of Bordeaux is one that is woven through the tapestries of time.  There have been so many political influences in the region over the past millennia that space would require a small book to chronicle everything.  From the marriage of Eleanor of Aquitaine to Henry Plantagenet (Henry II) in 1152 up to the present day, the landscape of Bordeaux is ever-changing.  Possibly at a later date, a treatise on the history of Bordeaux might be in order.

As with most wine regions, the selection of grape varieties is crucial to its success.  However, unlike other wine regions that state the grape varieties on their labels, the Bordelais do not preferring instead for the consumer to understand which are the grapes used.  Here in North America, the types of grapes used would be called Meritage, a combination of Merit and Heritage, giving homage to the mix of grapes used in Bordeaux.  These can be an amalgamation of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot.

Deciding on where grapes grow best will determine what varieties are planted.  As with BC, only certain varieties will mature properly in specific areas.  There are basically two specific regions in Bordeaux, the Right Bank and Left Bank.  These areas are related to the geography of the region and are divided by the Garonne and Dordogne rivers; the “right bank” is situated on the right bank of Dordogne and the “left bank”, situated on the left bank of Garonne.

The left bank is dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon and is where the top five wines of Bordeaux are produced; Château Lafite Rothschild in Pauillac, Château Margaux in the Margaux, Château Latour in Pauillac, Chateau Haut-Brion in Péssac-Legonan and Chateau Mouton Rothschild in Pauillac (promoted from second to first growth in 1973).  These wines were classified or given their status in 1855 by the Emperor Napoleon III for the Exposition Universelle de Paris or World’s Fair (much like our Expo ’86).

Back in 1855, a group of Bordeaux wine brokers created a five-class ranking of 60 châteaux  in the Médoc, north of Bordeaux (and one from Graves, Haut-Brion), that has determined how much those châteaux could charge for their wines, and, more important, how much the public was willing to pay.  This has not changed very much in over 150 years (talk about being mired in tradition.

The right bank is dominated by Merlot and was not classified in 1855 but in 1955.

In some ways, the wines of Bordeaux are a victim of its own success.  While most of the famous wines like Margaux, Latour, Haut-Brion, Lafite-Rothschild, and Mouton are selling for over $1,000 a bottle, most consumers are amazed when they find Bordeaux priced at $20 or $30 a bottle, which is drinkable.  Neophytes, be not concerned; there are lots of great tasting wines from Bordeaux at really good prices.  The most famous wines are invariably excellent, but prices reflect status and availability as much as quality.  These buyers are often wealthy collectors who either have no intention of drinking them for decades, speculators who plan to sell them later for a profit or just want them to impress their friends.  That is one advantage to buying top end Bordeaux.  They appreciate incredibly.

Weekend Wine Picks:

Here in BC, Bordeaux-style wines are abundant and are usually labelled as Meritage.

The 2010 Spierhead Pursuit ($25) is a fabulous wine displaying ripe aromas of cherry, black berry and raspberry with hints of roasted tomato, black olive, mocha, leather, and Asian spice.  Soft and round on the palate, the texture is fairly elegant with its smoke, tobacco leaf and cranberry flavours.  A fabulous price for a Meritage.

This wine has evolved so much over the past eight months that the 2009 Laughing Stock Portfolio ($47) has now become one of our favourite wines.  Goes to show you what a little time in the bottle will do for a wine.  We North Americans tend to drink our wines too young.  A Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot,  Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, look for layers of rich black and red fruit aromas such as blackberries, cassis, raspberries and cherries with hints of licorice, fennel, menthol and vanilla-scented oak.  The palate is loaded with luscious black cherry jam flavours, licorice, creamy chocolate pudding, and sweet tobacco leaf.  Deliciously ripe and long with soft acidity, very firm tannins although not aggressive with a finish somewhat reminiscent of mocha-chocolate pudding.

An absolutely delicious drop of wine, the 2011 Hester Creek Cabernet Merlot ($18) is a yummy surprise.  Actually a blend of the two Cabernet grapes along with Merlot, if this wine was labelled as Meritage the price would be double.  This wine is full of fresh raspberries, black cherries, toast, chocolate, vanilla, tobacco leaf with dried herbs and baked earth.  Spicy black fruit on the palate with soft acidity and firm tannins, this is an easy drinking red but also has the stuffing to age for 6-12 months.

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Wines of Piedmont

Posted on October 24, 2012 by FirstPressings

Whenever we talk about wines from Italy, invariably the wine mentioned is Chianti, probably the most known Italian wine region for decades.  However, there are numerous other regions to discover that produce fabulous wine and one of the largest is the region of Piedmont.

Located in the northwestern corner of Italy, Piedmont is situated on the alpine borders of Switzerland and France.  Literally translated as “the foot of the mountains”, Piedmont is a vast plain spreading out from the Alps, the Apennines and the Monferrato hills.  Ranked fifth in Italy in total wine production, 80% comes from the southern section of the Monferrato hills.  The chief grapevine here is Nebbiolo, which takes its name from Nebbia, meaning fog, which is in reference to the mist that settles in Piedmont every fall just as the grapes are ripening.  This is the grape, which is responsible for Barolo and Barbaresco, two of Italy’s most powerful wines.

There are also other significant plantings of Barbera, Dolcetto and Muscat.  Muscat is the grape which is responsible for one of the world’s most popular sparkling wines, Asti Spumante and the superb dessert wine, Moscato D’Asti.

The two most famous wines from Piedmont, Barolo and Barbaresco, take their names from the small towns near Alba.  The area of production is almost adjacent to each other with Barolo covering 25,000+ acres in the towns of Barolo, Castiglione, Monteforte d’ Alba, Verduno, and Diano D’Alba.  By contrast, BC has about 10,000 acres.  The smaller area of Barbaresco to the northeast covers the towns of Barbaresco, Alba, Neive and Canelli.

Of the two, Barolo is the more intense, slow to mature because of its pungency and masculinity.  It is big, muscular, brooding and unforgiving in its youth, high in alcohol and full of aromas of black fruit, dried herbs, tobacco and tar.  Barbaresco is always softer, more giving with sophistication and finesse, loaded with red fruit, cedar and violets.

The colours of both wines are a deep red with the Barolo being almost black at times eventually fading to a brownish mahogany colour with age.  The production techniques for both wines are similar except for Barolo, which is allowed to age in Slovenian oak barrels for at least 3 years, two of which must be in wood.  To qualify as a Riserva, the aging must increase to 5 years.

For a wine to be labelled as Barbaresco the aging is reduced to 2 years, one of which must be in wood and to qualify as a Riserva, the wine must age for 4 years.  It is during this time in the barrel that the wines shed the harshness of youth and begin the journey to becoming the majestic wines that they are.

Barolo is not known as “the wine of Kings, the King of wines” for nothing.  There was a time when tasting the new releases from Barolo and Barbaresco was the wine tasting equivalent of engaging in deadly battle. The intensity and aggressiveness of the wines were enough to defeat even the most seasoned palate and required numerous years of aging to tame the wine.  These were not meant for everyone but a Barolo or Barbaresco with considerable age to them is a pleasure to behold.

Barbera and Dolcetto, the other two red varieties from Piedmont, were until recently, traditionally made in a lighter, easy-drinking style. Now there is an emphasis on producing wines with concentration and depth to rival Barolo and Barbaresco. The key to achieve this is greater ripening, attained by planting the grape in choicer sites and aging in French oak instead of the traditional Slovenian.

Barbera makes dark wines that are low in tannins and the use of new French oak lends tannins of its own, giving this newer style of Barbera the balanced structure it needs to support the added richness.  The combination of acidity and tannins also makes these Barbera much more age-worthy than their predecessors.  Many of the wines made in this newer style are reminiscent of premium Zinfandel: dark fruits and creamy chocolate flavours with gentle tannins.

The unsung hero of Piedmont, Dolcetto is not as complex or as rich as Barolo but it is a reasonably priced, delicious wine made by almost all of the great producers of the area.  Typically, the colour is a deep purple to ruby red, a result of lengthy exposure to the skins, with a very intense aroma of dark fruits and sometimes a hint of almond in the bouquet.  The tannins are relatively high but soft and well integrated, giving the wine a velvety texture.  While the wine is lower in acidity than its regional counterparts (Barbera and Nebbiolo), it has great fruit to balance the typically higher levels of alcohol.  The finish usually has a delicious, if slightly bitter, aftertaste similar to that of a bitter cocoa.

The most important thing to know about Dolcetto is that it is made to complement Northern Italian cuisine and while it is not easy to find in retail stores, there is usually at least one Dolcetto on the wine list of most Italian restaurants.  Since it does have a unique flavour, not everyone will like it but the next time you have Italian food, try a Dolcetto and you might just find your new favourite Italian wine.

The other well-known Piedmontese wines are Asti Spumante and Moscato D‘Asti.  Asti Spumante is a sweet, slightly flowery sparkling wine produced from Moscato Bianco and with its very low alcohol, large amount of sugar and its fresh supply of bubbles, it’s the perfect partner for a simply celebration.

Moscato D’Asti is also from Moscato Bianco and these wines are always low in alcohol (5.5% maximum), remarkably fruity and fragrant and just sweet enough that some consider them a lovely wine as either an aperitif or a dessert wine. Delicate, light on the palate and with just the hint of musky aromas, some even consider Moscato D’Asti as the perfect wine with breakfast.

As Julia Child would say if she were in Italy, Buon Appetito.

Piedmont Wine Picks:

A rich, sturdy wine, the 2006 Fontanafredda Barbaresco ($45) is brimming with plummy blackberries, black cherry, licorice, cedar, truffles, vanilla and cocoa.  An incredible, relatively great value Piedmontese wine, all the components are well proportioned with this wine, never one over-shadowing the other, from the aromas of cedar and cherries to the flavours of ripe fruit and vanilla.  The palate is supple, rich and round, making for an extremely easy-to-drink Barbaresco.  Drink now–2020.

A meaty, savoury wine, full of spice and pepper, the 2007 Fontanafredda Barolo ($50)  is powerful and intense with aromas of ripe prunes, black cherry, roses, licorice, truffles, leather and tar.  Deep and concentrated but not overpowering, the palate is loaded with rich black fruit, spice, tobacco, smoke and cedar and a long finish with spice, dried herbs and berry flavours towards the end.  This wine demands roasted meats, zesty pasta sauces. An excellent candidate for the cellar, it will reward with another 5-8 years of cellaring.

Produced from 100% Nebbiolo, the main grape of Piedmont, the 2007 Fontanafredda Serralunga Barolo ($70) is a stunning example of this variety’s complexity.  A very perfumed wine with intense aromas of rich black raspberry, blackcurrant, strawberry jam, licorice, tar and tobacco leaf with hints of rose petal, dried herbs and oriental spice.  The texture is silky, velvety smooth with lush acidity and firm, full-bodied tannins; this is a huge wine for the price.  Look to pay much more for a wine of this complexity if you can find it.  Enjoy now or cellar for another decade.

The 2011 San Silvestro Barbera Ottone 1 ($14) is a deep, dense Barbera packed with jammy dark fruit.  The wine shows excellent balance in the firm style that is typical for the wines of Asti.  Dark, brooding notes of smoke and tar add further complexity on the close. Has enough stuffing to cellar for another 3-5 years

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Grenache (Gren-ash)

Posted on October 17, 2012 by FirstPressings

“You’re a member of the ‘Rhône Ranger’ band.  Your groupies think you’re ‘hot’, even when you’re boozy and “strung out”.  You’re hairy, yet they want you, and you’re always a willing partner.  Is it your Spanish heritage that makes them crazy?  Perhaps, but really it’s because you have a rather sweet personality.  Grenache, you’re the most famous backup guitarist, playing a lightly tannic beat in some of the better groups”.

While this little ditty may seem somewhat nonsensical, it does state the problem associated with Grenache or Garnacha as it is called in Spain.  The most-widely planted red grape in the world, much of it grown on the vast central plain of La Mancha in Spain, it is a late ripening variety ideally grown in regions that have a long growing season with hot, dry conditions.

It is a hairy-leafed grapevine which produces fruit that has a naturally high sugar content thereby producing wines with high alcohol but by and large lacks some of the necessary acid, tannin and colour so it is usually blended with other varieties and herein lays one of the problems.  In a wine world were single varieties are dominating wine labels Grenache rarely appears by itself.

Although it is occasionally produced as a 100% varietal wine, particularly from old vine plantings in Spain’s north-eastern region, Australia and in California, it is, on the whole, used to “fill out” red blends and soften harsher partners, such as Syrah and Carignan.  Generally Grenache makes fleshy, heady, very fruity wines best consumed in their youth because they tend to age rapidly, showing tawny colours and are prone to oxidation or maderization after only a relatively short time in bottle.

Grenache may have originated in Spain, probably in the northeast region of Aragon but has since spread over the Pyrenees into southern France and throughout the rest of the Mediterranean.  In Sardinia, which has claimed that the variety originated there, it is called Cannonau.  This statement could imply that it is really from Sardinia and was imported to Spain when Sardinia was under Aragón rule during the late 13th to 15th century.

In the south of France, it is the prevailing variety in most Southern Rhône wines, especially in Châteauneuf-du-Pape where it can comprise over 80% of the blend.  Here the plantings of Grenache have reached over 200,000 acres making it the third most planted variety after Carignan and Ugni Blanc.  These plantings are divided between two groups, the Provençal group, which are in the eastern regions of Vaucluse, Drôme, Var and Bouches-du-Rhône; and the Languedoc group in the west which includes the departments of Gard, Pyrénées-Orientales, Hérault, Aude and Ardeche. In Australia it is usually blended into “GSM” blends with Syrah and Mourvèdre.

The epidemic, phylloxera, which devastated the vineyards of Europe in the late 19th century, indirectly increased the plantings of Grenache.  In Rioja for example, vineyards were replanted not with the native varietals that were destroyed but with the hardy, easy to graft Grenache.  A similar trend occurred in southern France, as the percentage of Grenache plantings increased significantly after phylloxera, replacing the previously abundant Mourvèdre.

In the new world, Grenache is picking up steam with successful plantings in Australia, California and even some trial plantings here in BC.

Australia has extensive plantings of Grenache, some going back over 100 years and has been very successful making full-bodied 100% varietal and Grenache-dominated red blends.  However, while it has a long history in Australia, it is only over the past decade or so that the variety has started to receive the recognition that it deserves.

In California, the plantings have dwindled to just over 6000 acres as its use in cheap table wines waned and huge plantings, mostly in the San Joaquin Valley, were cut away.

Traditionally, it was mostly planted in the warm Central Valley, intended to produce fruity, quaffable reds and pinks, but with the emergence of Rhône blends, enthusiastically promoted by a band of winemakers known as the ‘Rhone Rangers’, it has begun an increase in plantings in some of the better-known California viticultural zones.

In BC, the grape is so new that there are only about 4½ acres planted and there is very little wine produced.

Grenache Picks:

The big brother of the bargain-priced Monseran, the 2007 ‘Old Vine’ Castillo de Monseran ($16) continues to prove why Spanish wines are on the upswing.  Produced from low yielding, 50 year old Grenache vines, this wine is loaded with youthful, fresh aromas of jammy black cherry, black raspberry, sweet licorice and creamy vanilla-scented oak with hints of baked earth, dried herbs and forest floor.  The soft, juicy black and red fruit flavours coats the palate with a lush, full-bodied texture followed by soft acidity, firm, lip-smacking tannins and a long, deep finish.  Excellent with a mild Manchego.

One of the finest Rhone wines I have tried in years, the 2010 Chateau Pesquie ‘Les Terrasses’ Cotes Du Ventoux ($21) continues a string of fabulous vintages for this winery interrupted by the horrendous 2002.  Incredible bang-for-your-buck (QPR), this dense purple coloured wine is a blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah with some traces of Carignan and Cinsault. Look for intense aromas of blackberry, black plum, cassis liqueur, Asian spice, licorice, and baked earth.  Full-bodied and opulent, with amazing structure, and tremendous texture, this high-class, serious Cotes du Ventoux is ready to drink now yet possesses all the stuffing needed to age (possibly improve) for 4-6 years.  Amazing stuff.

A spectacular Grenache blend from Australia, the 2007 Penfolds Bin 138 ($40) is a mix of Grenache (64%), Mourvedre (21%) and Shiraz (15%), aged for 15 months in 5 year old hogsheads and blended just prior to bottling.  A huge wine for the price, this is loaded with fragrant aromas of sweet raspberry, kirsch, strawberries, spice box, leather and smoke.  The palate is well structured with its rich flavours of black and red fruits, spice, garrigue, soft acidity and firm tannins.  This is not a typical Aussie fruit bomb but an elegant, refined wine.  Fantastic to enjoy now for the sheer pleasure of it but will reward with another 8-10 years of cellaring.

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