firstpressings

Last week was something a little special.  Actually, it is a lot more special than usual.  I was holed up for three days at the Manteo Resort in Kelowna judging the 2011 BC Wine Awards.  An annual wine competition, a panel of judges from all over North America descend onto Kelowna every fall to partake in this grueling wine challenge, which encompasses about 455 wines over the 3 days.  While it may seem like a dream come true, having to stay focused on the chore at hand is no small task.

Everyone arrived and checked in Sunday evening then proceeded to the task at hand, which consisted of tasting and evaluating the first batch of wines.  There are 9 judges in total, broken into groups of three.  Each group received different flights throughout the 3 days since it would take longer than 3 days for all of us to try all the wines.

The first flight in our group consisted of 10 unoaked Chardonnay’s then it was right into 12 red Meritage blends.  The final flight of the evening was 6 fruit wines.  About two minutes are spent evaluating each wine then wines are discussed to decide their rankings, whether a Bronze, Silver or Gold Medal.

Monday morning found us bright and chipper after a good night’s sleep.  It was much needed because it was right into tasting at 9am sharp.  First up were 8 white blends in varying styles although most were off-dry and simple.  Very consumer friendly but not really worthy of a gold or silver medal position.  This was followed by a flight of 12 Cabernet Franc’s and 10 Rieslings.  Again, a few standouts but the consensus was that the wines were not showing what they should be or the wines were poorly made.  However, in amongst the white blends, Cab Franc and Riesling were four Gold Medal Winners; Arrowleaf First Crush 2010, Road 13 Honest John 2010, Tinhorn Creek Cabernet Franc 2009 and the Best White of 2011, Summerhill Riesling 2010.

After a hearty lunch to refresh us, we continued our quest to find Gold, Silver and Bronze.  First was a flight of Merlot mainly from the 2009 vintage with a few 2008s thrown in.  All the judges that reviewed the Merlots felt that there was nothing worthy of a gold medal so they were relegated to the silver and bronze categories. Considering that this is the most planted red variety in BC, you would think that at least one would standout.  Maybe some wineries should concentrate on getting it right before trying other varieties.

Next up were 11 Gewürztraminers, 11 red Meritage and 12 reds which were a mix of Gamay, Barbera, Sangiovese, Zinfandel, Petit Verdot and Malbec.  Here we were able to find some winners.  A consistent BC producer, the 2010 Gray Monk Gewürzt was awarded Gold Medal along with the 2009 Hillside Estate Winery Old Vines Gamay Noir, 2009 Robin Ridge Winery Gamay, 2009 Inniskillin Vineyards Discovery Series Malbec, 2009 Laughing Stock Portfolio, 2007 Jackson-Triggs SunRock Vineyard Meritage, 2008 Sandhill Wines Small Lots Malbec from the Phantom Creek Vineyard and the 2009 Sandhill Wines Small Lots Petit Verdot also from the Phantom Creek Vineyard.

Tuesday morning started off with a treat; sparkling wine.  A flight of 8 wines awaited our palates. Two wines stood out here; the 2008 Jackson-Triggs Entourage Gold Series Sparkling Chardonnay and the 2008 Road 13 Vineyards Home Vineyard Sparkling Chenin Blanc.  Not bad; a 25% medal return rate, the best showing so far.

This was followed by 14 Chardonnay’s.  Only one wine was worthy of a gold here; the 2009 Road 13 Vineyards Jackpot Chardonnay Castle Vineyard.  Again, Chardonnay is the most planted white grape and yet hardly anyone got it right.

The finally flight of the day were 12 Syrah/Shiraz wines.  Once again the selection was spotty with a few noticeable well made wines. However 3 wines were so obvious that they went on to be awarded Gold Medal.  The 2009 Church & State Wines Coyote Bowl Syrah, the  2007 Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve Shiraz and the Best Red Wine of 2011, 2009 Red Rooster Reserve Syrah.

Wednesday morning was the final flight of the judging where the Gold and Silver Medals were awarded.  Along the above mentioned wines, the following were awarded Gold Medals:

• Ancient Hill Estate Winery Gewurztraminer 2009
• Blasted Church Vineyards Pinot Gris 2010
• Dunham & Froese Estate Winery Amicitia 2008
• Ganton & Larsen Prospect Winery Ogopogo’s Lair Pinot Gris 2010
• Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate SunRock Vineyard Meritage 2007
• Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate Proprietors’ Grand Reserve Riesling Icewine 2009
• Lake Breeze Vineyards Semillon 2010
• Lake Breeze Vineyards Pinot Blanc 2010
• Moon Curser Vineyards Viognier 2010
• Nk’Mip Cellars Qwam Qwmt Pinot Noir 2009
• Peller Estates Winery Family Series Pinot Blanc 2010
• Quails’ Gate Winery Pinot Noir 2009
• Road 13 Vineyards Home Vineyard Sparkling Chenin Blanc 2008
• Tinhorn Creek Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2009

Quite a few of these are produced in very small amounts, the Red Rooster Reserve Syrah.  As of October 4th, there are less than 50 cases left.  Grab some of these spectacular wines before they’re gone.

In Vino Veritas

Thanksgiving Wine Picks:

A typical Okanagan aromatic white, the 2010 Road 13 Honest Johns White is full of peach, nectarine, pear, green apple and kiwi.  A lively blend of Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Kerner, Chardonnay, Bacchus and Viognier, this is loaded with fresh tropical and orchard fruit aromas and flavours, perfectly balanced by the racy acidity.  The wine is slightly off-dry with a long crisp finish, showing the mineral contribution of the Sauvignon Blanc.  Delicate and fresh, it is at its best served nicely chilled.

The 2010 Moon Curser Vineyards Viognier is loaded with rich tropical and orchard fruit, honey, white pepper and refreshing acidity. Try pairing this wine with mildly spiced curry dishes, entrees with fruit chutneys or fruit salsas or poached Halibut.

Fall has officially arrived as of last Friday and with that, the unofficial start of the wine harvest.  In talking to a few growers and winemakers, they have mentioned that this year’s harvest has progressed dramatically over the past month and should be very good in terms of the quality although the quantity will be diminished, much like last year.  The past few weeks of cooler morning temperature and warm afternoons has been quite beneficial to the grapes, allowing them to fully ripen.

This weekend is the Okanagan Valley’s premier wine event, the 32th Annual Fall Wine Festival.  This 10 day celebration of wine is the highlight of the Okanagan wine season, showcasing around 160 events throughout the valley, focusing on wine tastings, winemaker dinners, educational seminars and art exhibits.  It is consistently ranked in the top 100 events in North America by the American Bus Association.

The festival kicks off on September 29th with the BC Wine Awards Reception & Tasting.  Be there when the medals for the best BC wines are passed out.  Be one of the first to try the medal winners at the Medal Winners Tasting and compare your assessment of the wines with the judge’s ratings and find out why they awarded these medals.   

Friday September 30^th is the 27th Annual People’s Choice Awards.  Hosted by the Coast Capri Hotel, this is an opportunity for you the consumer to take part in a blind wine tasting, become a wine judge and vote for your favourite varietal.  This is a laid back, fun affair that draws over 35 different wineries from the valley and usually sells out quickly.  Tickets are $50.00.  Contact the Coast Capri at 860-6060 or email at k.dorcas@coastcaprihotel.com.

Be sure to set aside time on September 30^th and October 1^st for the WestJet Wine Tasting at The Rotary Centre for the Arts.  This is an excellent opportunity to sample some of the superb wines that are being produced right here in our own back yard and expand your wine knowledge, all under one roof.  Tickets are $65 and it is highly recommended you buy your ticket quickly before they are all sold out.

On Sunday October 2nd, make it a point to travel to Oliver for one of my favourite events, the 15th Annual Festival of the Grape.  Much more than just a wine tasting, this is a family-orientated event featuring the wine tasting, face painting, live entertainment, food booths, trade show, games and a Grape Stomp.  A celebration of the harvest with a family focus, it is held at the Oliver Community Park alongside the Okanagan River, from noon to sundown.  There will be over 34 wineries and 17 food vendors for you to check out.  Tickets can be purchased in advance for $19 or $22 at the gate and it is recommended that you purchase your tickets in advance to avoid the VERY long line ups at the gate.  Tickets can be purchased by calling the Oliver and District Chamber of Commerce office at 250-498-6321, ext 1.  Check out the website at www.festivalofthegrape.ca.

The festival wraps up on October 7th and 8th with the Valley First Grand — sponsored Grand Finale Consumer Tasting at the Penticton Trade and Convention Centre on Friday and Saturday night.  This is the premier event of the Fall Wine Festival where over 60 wineries come out, pouring over 240 wines.  Many of these wineries are from the south Okanagan and sometimes will not make it to the Kelowna area to showcase their product.  A fantastic event, this is the ultimate wine tour.   Tickets are $62 and are available through Valley First Tix at 1-877-76-.2849 or online at www.valleyfirsttix.com.  This event is always a sell out so buy your tickets early!!!

There are numerous events happening during the ten day festival at individual wineries and restaurants so check them out in the Wine Festival guide, available at selected retail stores or online at www.thewinefestivals.com.

In Vino Veritas

Weekend Wine Picks:

Thanksgiving is just around the corner and that means…TURKEY!!  However, not everyone will be enjoying Turkey so here is a broad selection of wines, for Turkey lovers and others.

Always a BC favourite, the 2010 Quails Gate Gewürztraminer ($21) does not disappoint.  One of the best from Quails’ Gate that I have tasted in years, this vintage seems a bit of departure from previous years in that it is tasting more like ripe Alsatian Gewürzt than a BC style, which I think is great.  Perfumed and aromatic on the nose, the texture and flavour on the palate are absolutely hedonistic.  Almost liqueur-like because of the viscosity, the flavours are loaded with vibrant tropical and orchard fruit, hints of lychee, orange blossom, and a mouth-watering whack of spicy acidity on the finish.

Sourced from owner/winemaker Bill Eggert’s own vineyard, the 2009 Fairview Cellars Cabernet Franc ($33) wine is one of the finest reds of the 2009 vintage.  The wine is brimming with rich, ripe cassis, blackberry, plum, licorice, menthol, Asian spice, creamy vanilla, toasty oak…a mouthful of complex aromas and flavours.  The texture is velvety soft and elegant but with ripe tannins and a long, intense finish. It doesn’t get much better than this. YUMMY!!! 

The 2009 Red Bridge Red ($29.90) is a 100% Merlot sourced exclusively from Chris Scott’s Oak Knoll vineyard in Kaleden.  Displaying a rich blood red colour, this wine is explosive on the palate displaying powerful aromas of blackberry, cassis, creamy vanilla, cocoa and toast.  Intense grilled sausage, spiced cardamom, clove and blackberry with a soft, juicy palate, exceptional weight and lush, spicy finish, this wine will need another six months to show its true potential.  While the production has increased to 650 cases, allocations for the retail market are minuscule. Grab yours why you can and stow them away.

With the 32nd Annual Okanagan Fall Wine Festival just around the corner, it is probably a good idea to revisit certain characteristics that contribute to faulty wine.   Not every wine comes out of the tank or barrel in perfect condition; the stats are that one bottle out of 10-12 will have something wrong with it. 

We can usually identify some of the good aromas in wine and place a descriptor beside it like raspberries, and blackberries or buttery and oaky.  But if you get a bad wine, how do you describe it?  I should point out that a bottle is not bad just because you do not like the wine.  There is a difference between a “flawed” wine and one you do not like.  So, if a bottle does not suit your preferences it is not necessarily defective.

So, while you are tasting your way through the mired of wines, keep an eye (or nose) out for something that just doesn’t seem right and maybe apply one of these faults to it.

Corked  Wine:  A wine is not “corked” just because it has bits of cork in it.  A “corked” wine means the wine has been spoiled by the a chemical called 2, 4, 6-trichloroanisole or TCA in the wine that may be present in corks.  Wine containing TCA has a characteristic odour sometimes described as resembling wet cement, bitter wood, musty/mouldy socks, not pleasant smells whatsoever.  If you get a “corked” wine, return it to the store from which it was purchased or send it back if you are at a restaurant.

Volatile Acidity or VA:  The bacteria that is responsibly for creating acetic acid, which gives vinegar its characteristic aroma and flavour is what causes volatile acidity and its by-product ethyl acetate.  The most obvious sign of this is the scent, which is the smell of vinegar.  A balanced amount of VA is necessary but just as a fever indicates a problem in humans, excess volatile acidity in wine signals trouble. 

Ethyl Acetate:  This wine fault is caused by excessive amounts of Acetic Acid or VA combining with Ethanol or alcohol as it is commonly known.  A tell-tale sign of this is the smell of nail polish remover or different types of glue.

Oxidized:  Oxygen is wine’s worst enemy, and when exposed to air, it starts to “oxidize.”  This results in a young wine that begins to lose its vibrant fruit character and taste, reminding one of Sherry in the case of white wine and Port in red wines.  With white wines, the colour will change from green or pale straw to yellow, gold, and then dark amber although it will be less noticeable in red wines.

Maderization:  Heat is another destructive force applied to wine and is more than likely the result of bad storage.  When a wine is “maderized,” it has been literally baked and will taste like Madeira with an aroma of almonds and candied fruits — admirable qualities in dessert wines but unacceptable in dry wines.  The cork will sometimes be pushed up over the neck of the bottle. 

Brettanomyces or “Brett:  Brett is wild yeast responsible for wine spoilage.  There is a school of though that at low levels it can add complexity to a wine’s aroma, while in larger amounts, it can cause unpleasant aromas.  A wine greatly tainted by Brett can be described as resembling a sweaty horse saddle, or burnt beans.  A wine overly imbued with Brett tends to get worse as it ages.  Ever been near a pigsty or in a barn on a hot day?  Then you know what Brett smells like in large amounts.

Hydrogen Sulphide:  Hydrogen Sulphide or H2S is a natural by-product of fermentation, but it can show itself in a wine in a variety of objectionable ways, in aromas and flavours that range from struck flint and burnt matches to rubber, cabbage and rotten eggs.  It is the result of yeast combining with sulphur and if not rectified, eventually it will transform into “Mercaptans” (the rotten egg smell) and di-sulfides (a sewage smell), both of which ruin a wine.

Re-fermentation:  Re-fermentation, sometimes called secondary fermentation, is caused by yeast re-fermenting the residual sugar present within bottled wine.  It occurs when the yeast is not completely removed after fermentation, so it can react with any sugar that is left, starting the fermentation process again.  It is not necessarily a defect in that it is used to create champagne or to impart a slight spritziness in the Portuguese Vinho Verdre’s which is fine under such controlled conditions.  Otherwise, it can make the wine cloudy and fizzy and can even cause the bottle to explode. 

Tartrate Crystals:  Tartrate Crystals or wine diamonds as they are also called, is simply crystallized cream of tartar and are a natural product of the wine, and form when the wine gets too cold.  Tartaric acid is a normal grape acid along with Potassium, and when these two bind together under chilly conditions, they form little potassium bitartrate crystals, which then settle to the bottom of the bottle.  They’re completely harmless and quite natural and can occur in both red and white wines.

Weekend Wine Picks:

The 2010 Gehringer Brothers Optimum Pinot Noir ($24.90) is a velvety, silky-smooth wine displaying ripe raspberry, cherry, strawberry and cassis fruit aromas with hints of sweet licorice, menthol, vanilla and new leather.  Delicate notes of red and black fruit, roses, violets, hints of vanilla and smoke balance a lush and rich texture.  Velvety soft acidity balanced by the medium tannins on the finish, this is a “drink-me-up” wine, not intended for aging.  Just invited some friends over and enjoy.  This is generous wine can stand up to a number of rich foods.  Try pairing it with salmon steaks or duck Confit with garlic-mashed potatoes.

A fantastic tasting Riesling, the 2010 See Ya Later Ranch “Unleashed” Riesling ($18.90) is full of thirst-quenching tropical and orchard fruit aromas of ripe peach, red apple, pineapple and mango with a fresh, round palate of honeyed peach, pear, apricot, apple and citrus flavours.  The finish is vibrant and fresh with crisp acidity making it a perfect partner for spicy Indian cuisine.

Displaying a light straw-gold colour with a green tinge, the 2009 Church and State Chardonnay ($29.90) reveals luscious aromas of citrusy lime, pineapple, mango and papaya. The palate is rich and full with gobs of luscious tropical and orchard fruit, honeysuckle, creamery butter and crisp spicy acidity. The slight hint of nutmeg on the lush finish adds that little extra layer of complexity.  Wicked good tasting Chard.

An excellent example of what this variety is capable of, the 2010 CedarCreek Pinot Gris ($21.90) is full of rich tropical and orchard fruit such as mango, pineapple, grapefruit, pear, and sweet apple with hints of white pepper, creamy vanilla, and toast.  Fermented dry with vibrant, crisp acidity, the finish is concentrated, rich, and smooth with great weight.  This is an excellent wine to pair with creamy pasta sauces such as Alfredo or with grilled salmon.

One of the best Meritage blends in BC if not Canada, the 2008 Howling Bluff Sin Cera ($34.90) is a Meritage blend of 80% Merlot, 16% Malbec and 4% Cabernet Franc, sourced from low cropped vines at the Summa Quies Vineyard on the Naramata Bench.  Aged in new and 2nd year old French oak, this outstanding BC red offers a full bodied structure with buckets of juicy ripe black plum, cassis, black cherry, licorice, vanilla, black olive, tobacco and roasted coffee aromas and flavours with a hint of toasty vanilla oak on the intense finish.  A thick, concentrated yet velvety texture with soft acidity and full, firm tannins, it is the perfect partner with a grilled steak or mixed grill.  Ready to drink now and over the next 2-3 years.

Of all the wine regions of France or for that matter, the world, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is perhaps one the most famous and historic, all at the same time.  The name roughly translates to “New House of the Pope” and the history of this region and its wine is firmly entwined with papal history.  Even the bottles are embossed with the Papal coat of arms.

Located between Avignon and Orange in the southern Rhône, the area has been under vine cultivation since the second century B.C., before Roman occupation.  By the first century A.D., grape growing had been widely developed by the Romans, mainly to supply their army with wine.

Village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape

The name was first recorded in 1157 and by the 13th century, the village of Châteauneuf, with its 1000 inhabitants, had begun to grow prosperous and had developed a flourishing vineyard of approximately 700 acres.

In 1308, Pope Clément V planted additional vine stock.  Clement was already an accomplished grape grower having planted his own vineyard in Bordeaux known as Château Pape-Clement, when he was Bishop of Bordeaux and he would regularly travel to village of Châteauneuf to inspect his vines.  Since Clement was French and because of political upheaval in the papacy, he decided it would be better to remain in France and so moved the Papacy to Avignon where it remained until 1378.

Clements successor, Pope John XXII, regularly supplied wine from Châteauneuf to the Papal residence.  He was without a doubt the prelate who was most instrumental in developing the reputation of Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines.  He was also responsible for building the papal summer residence in the small village of Châteauneuf.  (The castle was partial destroyed during the Second World War due to bombing but the remains of it still stand today).

Existing walls of the 13thC Castle

Pope John cultivated the 25 acres that surrounded the castle but found he needed much more wine for his papal feasting where one feast included 55 sheep, 690 chickens, 580 partridges, 270 rabbits, 8 pigs, 4 wild boar, 40 plovers, 37 ducks and 50 pigeons.  As a result, he contracted for an annual delivery of 1,550 litres from the nearby village of Bédarrides, which is part of the Châteauneuf du Pape appellation today.

Not much is known of the grapes that were planted during this time but in1808 vines were planted from “old plants” of local origin along with new plants from Spain.  Since the growers wanted to enhance their wines and improve quality, they tried many new grape varieties.  Towards the end of the 1800’s, one man, Joseph Ducos, planted on his estate ten carefully selected grape varieties.  These were to become the basis of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.  Those grapes are:

Grenache and Cinsault for sweetness, warmth and mellowness, Mourvèdre, Syrah, Muscardin and Camarèse (aka Vaccarèse) for robustness, maturity, colour and a thirst-quenching taste.  Counoise and Picpoul contribute vinosity, charm and a special bouquet and Clairette and Bourboulenc for finesse, fire and brilliance.

Old Vine Syrah

Today, Châteauneuf-du-Pape may contain up to eighteen varieties but for the most part only three or four are used for the reds, these being Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and sometimes Cinsault.  White Châteauneuf-du-Pape may contain Bourboulenc, Clairette Blanche, Clairette Rose, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Picardan, Piquepoul Blanc, Piquepoul Gris, and Roussanne although only Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Bourboulenc, Clairette and Picpoul are usually used.

What’s more, in recent years Australia has started using these grapes in blending their wines, they just cannot call it Châteauneuf-du-Pape.  There it is called GSM after the grapes employed.

In Vino Veritas

Wine Picks

The 2006 Domaine Du Pégau Cuvée Reservée Châteauneuf-du-Pape  is traditionally-styled with its sweet, lush, black raspberry fruit, new saddle leather, raspberries, licorice, fruitcake, smoked game, tobacco leaf, cigar box and Provencal herbs.  Full-bodied and powerful with soft acidity and firm yet supple tannins, this wine will last another 10-15 years.

The 2008 d’Arenberg Stump Jump GSM is the Australian version of Châteauneuf-du-Pape with its huge aroma of blackberry and mulberry fruit, plum, dark cherry fruits, Asian spice and hints of vanillin that carries right through onto the palate.  A blend of Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvèdre, the name relates to the old Stump Jump plough named for its ability to ride over stumps and gnarled “mallee” Eucalyptus roots and snags, saving valuable time and resources by not stopping the draught horse.  The palate is savoury and bone-dry, balanced with lovely sweet black fruit and subtle tannins and acidity that already make the wine a pleasure to drink now or cellar well for 2-3 years.  Try this with char-grilled meat or paired with pâté, game, venison and grilled sausages.

A classic Châteauneuf-du-Pape style blend of Grenache, Syrah and Carignan, the 2009 Domaine de L’Ameillaud Vin des Pays Vaucluse is, in one word, sensational.  Sourced from 30-year-old vines from the Vaucluse region of Provence, the strong, cherry-jam aroma of Grenache dominates with southern French flavours of cherries and plums, highlighted by cassis, spice and white pepper.  A round wine that starts with fresh fruit and finishes dry and smoky.  Look for soft acidity and firm, not heavy, tannins on the finish.  This wine is ready to drink now and goes with grilled/roasted meat, vegetables and pasta.

Not exactly a CDP white or even a version of one but the 2010 Moon Curser Afraid of the Dark is delicious nonetheless.  A blend of Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne, it is a brilliant pale yellow colour with a tinge of green, delicate on the nose with its aromatic aromas of fresh peaches, apricots and nectarines with a splash of lemon-lime, orange marmalade and white flowers.  Crisp, clean and dry with flavours of nectarine, ripe pear, peach, almonds and minerals.  Excellent with pan-seared Basa with mango salsa

Whenever I meet someone that is new to the wine industry, at some point we ask each other if we have a wine cellar and what there is in it. Sometimes the answers are modest while others claim to hold 1000 or more bottles. Some of the finer restaurants in Vancouver have extensive cellars such as the excellent Cin Cin or the Vancouver Club, which boasts a $2 million inventory. However, there is one restaurant which the offers its guests the largest wine list of any restaurant in the world and that is Bern’s Steak House in Tampa Bay, Florida.

Offering its customers a selection of about 500,000 bottles to choose from, a vinous nightmare for the indecisive, it was founded by Bern Laxer in 1956 and not only has the biggest wine cellar but they also have the biggest charcoal grill, 20 feet long which holds up to 200 steaks at once. As well, the steak menu is four pages long, devoted to the sourcing and preparation. Truly a wine lover and carnivores delight. 

Are we a nation of wino’s or suds drinkers? 

Canada has long been known (and a little proud of) as a nation of beer consumers. However, a recent study has shown that wine consumption in Canada is growing at six times the world average. Conducted by British research firm ISWR for Vinexpo, the biennial international wine and spirits trade show, researchers examined worldwide wine consumption trends from 2005 through to 2014 and found that between 2005 and 2009, Canadians increased their wine consumption to a total of 40.4 million cases, an increase of more than 22.5 per cent. If this trend continues, ISWR predicts that from 2010 to 2014, Canada’s consumption will increase to 49.7 million cases, an increase of 19 per cent. By contrast, the world average consumption from 2010 to 2014 is predicted to rise to 2.73 billion cases, an increase of only 3.18 per cent. 

Wine names: 

Over the past 10-15 years, wineries have been engaging in brand marketing by attaching quirky and sometimes screwball names to their wines. The following are some bizarre names found on wine labels: 

• Elephant on a Tight Rope
• Mad Housewife 
• Cleavage Creek (a winery in Napa Valley which actually donates 10% of its gross sales to fund breast cancer research and support) 
• Frog’s Piss 
• Le Vin de Merde (look it up, I can’t translate it for you here) 
• Cat’s Pee on a Gooseberry Bush (who would want to try a wine that smells like kiwi and ammonia) 

Expensive wines: 

The last time you went out for dinner and shared a bottle of wine with your date, what was the price of the wine? Typically they are marked up 100%, which is just part of the cost of operating a restaurant. Most of us will pay $50-$60 for a bottle of wine in a restaurant. But what about that rarefied category, estimated at around 2-3% of the population, who will part with the price of a small mortgage for a bottle of wine. 

Here is a list of some very pricey bottles of wine. 

Heidsieck Champagne Vintage 1906 $275,000 per bottle. In 1916, about 3000 bottles of this wine were sent to the officers of the imperial army of Tsar Nicholas II, when the ship carrying the precious cargo was sunk by a German U-boat off the coast of Finland. Discovered in 1997, it is only sold at the Ritz-Carlton in Moscow. 

Chateau Lafite-Rothschild 1869 $233,692.  Châteaux Lafite-Rothschild 1869 is currently the world’s most expensive red wine.  Sold by Sotheby’s wine auctions in Hong Kong,  Lafite is one of the top five of the first official quality-based classification of Medoc wines in 1855.  The chateau was bought by Baron James de Rothschild in 1868, and have been labeled Lafite-Rothschild since.

1945 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild Jeroboam (3L), $114,614. The wine crowd claim this vintage to be one of the finest of the 20thC. The 1945 Jeroboam bears a rare label by Baron Phillipe de Rothschild of a V mark for victory to indicate the end of World War II. In 2006, an unknown buyer bought a magnum case of 6 bottles for $310,000 at an auction by Christie’s. 

Previously, the 1784 Chateau d’Yquem at $56,588 was the most expensive dessert wine.  That has been trumped by the 1811 Yquem which just recently sold at auction for $117,000.  The 1811 vintage is renowned as the most famous of the ‘Comet vintages’ – years in which an astronomical event has happened before harvest, in this case the Great Comet of 1811.   The same 1811 vintage has received accolades in modern times:  The U.S. wine critic Robert Parker tasted the wine in 1996 and gave it a 100-point rating, saying it tasted like “liquefied crème brûlée.”  A Premium Cru wine from Sauternes in southern Bordeaux, it has been given many excellent reviews and in the wine classifications of 1855, Chateau d’Yquem was the only Sauternes to receive the prestigious ratings given other top wines, explaining its superiority and high price.

In Vino Veritas 

Weekend Wine Picks: 

The past three years has been tough on the imported wine sector with a lot of importers having to slash prices to move their stock.  We are the beneficiaries of these reductions. Here are a few wines for us to enjoy. 

The 2004 Bodegas Barahonda Heredad Candela Petit Verdot ($29.90…reduced by $20) from Spain is a deep, dark black cherry/purple coloured wine with huge rich, ripe blackberry and blueberry aromas followed by ripe black olive, sweet tobacco leaf, creamy milk chocolate/vanilla, licorice and a touch of Asian and black pepper spice. Full bodied with lots of ripe fruit on the palate, the texture is silky smooth, long and flavourful on the finish. Tastes like a $50 bottle of wine for $30. Great concentration and complexity at this price! 

The Viña Tres Palacios Family Vintage Carménère 2007 ($19.90…reduced from $27.90) is actually the Palacios family’s name for their Gran Reserva wine, the top tier that they produce.  A deep, intensely purple/violet colour, this delicious Chilean bargain displays the aromas and flavours of rich blackberry, black cherry, cocoa, vanilla, clove and cinnamon mixed with cedar, tobacco, black tea and tobacco.  The palate is loaded with fresh, jammy black fruit, spice and chocolate with a hint of menthol, cigar box and great complexity.  Soft, lush acidity and firm tannins round out this spectacular wine.  Fantastic with grilled steak, roasted potatoes, caramelized onions and sauteed mushrooms”.

Basically, Super Tuscans are an unofficial category of wines produced in Tuscany, which are not recognized within the Italian wine classification system.  The name was originally made-up to describe a class of red wines that originated in Chianti during the 1970s and early-1980s which describes any Tuscan red wine that does not adhere to traditional blending laws for the region. 

Wine producers at the time used 100% Sangiovese, Chianti’s most prominent red grape, others blended Sangiovese with non-traditional red grapes, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc and some went so far even as to use only non-traditional red grapes. It was a radical idea at the time to produce a red wine that did not contained any white grapes, which the law required back then.

By experimenting with non-traditional grapes, by employing new winemaking techniques, such as small-barrel aging (up to that time Chianti had always been aged in large casks), the quality of Chianti was greatly enhanced.  However, this experiment caused a problem. Even though these revamped Chiantis were excellent, they could not under strict Italian wine, be called Chianti.  So they were labelled Vino da Tavola, “Table Wine”, a designation given to low-end wines of questionable origin.

The first Super Tuscan was Sassicaia.  It was the first wine from Tuscany to be produced entirely from the Bordeaux varietals of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.  It originated with the Marchesi Mario Incisa Della Rochetta, who became acquainted with Bordeaux wines during the ‘40’s.  He believed that wines of the same quality could be produced in Tuscany using Bordeaux grapes and methods, in particular in the area of Bolgheri at his estate Tenuta San Guido.

So, in 1944 he planted Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc vines obtained from Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, at San Guido.  He used small French-oak barrels instead of the traditional large chestnut vats that were commonly used.  Those early vintages were kept only for private consumption, but in 1968 the first vintage was commercially available to the world as the first Super Tuscan.

In the 1970s, Piero Antinori, a nephew of Mario Incisa della Rocchetta who had been a consultant at Tenuta San Guido since the historic 1968 vintage, was inspired by the success of Sassicaia.  He decided to make a richer wine by eliminating the white grapes from the Chianti blend, adding instead Bordeaux varietals (namely, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot) to Sangiovese.  The result was a wine he named Tignanello.

Another relative of Marchesi Mario Incisa della Rochetta, Marchesi Lodovico Antinori, who is Piero’s cousin, created Ornellaia in Bolgheri.  He had inherited the adjoining property to Tenuta San Guido and in the early 1980’s, inspired by the advancements of the Napa Valley, brought in renowned California viticulturalist, Andre Tchelistcheff to give advice on the creation of Ornellaia.

Encouraged by the success of these wines, other winemakers started experimenting with blends of their own.  Many were simply 100% Sangiovese, which could not be labelled Chianti Classico at the time. Legislation has since caught up with the producers and Chianti Classico may now be produced solely from Sangiovese.

Because these wines did not conform to strict DOCG classifications, in 1992 the creation of the Indicazione Geografica Tipica category or IGT specifically addressed the need of consumers to be able to identify a non-traditional wine of guaranteed quality.  In addition, the laws governing Chianti were changed.  White grapes were no longer required to be part of the blend, but the wines must have a minimum of 80% Sangiovese (or 100%, if the producer so desired) and could include up to 20% non-traditional red varietals (such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot or Syrah). This meant that many of the original Super Tuscans could now call themselves Chianti if they wished although most choose not to do so, preferring instead to retain a singular identity such as Sassicaia or Tignanello

Today Sassicaia and Ornellaia are labelled as DOC wines from the Bolgheri region, which they helped define.  DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, meaning the wine is from a region that has been defined by the Italian Wine governing body.  Tignanello is another story; it is today labelled as IGT or Indicazione Geografica Tipica.

In Vino Veritas

Weekend Super-Tuscan Picks:

The 2005 Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva is a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.  The wine has an impressive, concentrated ruby red colour, aromas of cassis, black raspberry, Damson plum, black cherry with hints of mushroom, tobacco, tar, smoke, cedar, vanilla and pepper.  Multi-dimensional in every sense of the word, the flavours mirror the aromas with the same intensity.  The finish is long and complex with crisp acidity and firm tannins.  This could do with a few more years of aging to settle down and would cellar until 2020.

The 2005 Villa Antinori Toscana IGT is a blend of 55% Sangiovese, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 5% Syrah.  In 2002, the fruit from Antinori’s “Super-Tuscan” vineyard Tignanello, which was not produced that year, was used to produce this IGT.  By all rights a Super Tuscan, this is an intense wine displaying a brilliant ruby red colour with luscious black fruit aromas and flavours of black raspberry, cassis with hints of smoke, licorice and tobacco leaf blending with the toasty, chocolate and vanilla characteristics.  A rich, complex, well-structured wine with soft acidity and smooth, medium tannins.

The 2005 Cecchi Chianti Classico Riserva ($38 PWS) is a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Toscano.  Colorino is known for its deep, dark colour and structure from the phenolic compounds in the grape’s thick skin without having any overpowering aromatics.  Look for classic Italian aromas of black plum, black cherry, raspberry, cedar, tobacco, licorice, cocoa, smoke, mushroom, saddle leather, black olive and vanilla.  The flavours are absolutely delicious with an abundance of black and red fruits, licorice, smoked meat, cocoa, roasted coffee and dried herbs.  This definitely goes best with food, preferable Italian or could be cellared for another 5 years.  Probably one of the best value Chianti Classico Riserva’s on the market.

Tuscany is not the only area that is blending non-traditional Italian grapes.  Just to the south in Umbria, the 2007 Falesco Vitiano is a blend of equal parts of Merlot, Cabernet, and Sangiovese grapes, fermented in stainless steel tanks and aged in French oak barrels for 3 months before being bottled.  Consistently one of the finest values in the marketplace, Vitiano has a deep ruby colour with aromas of dried roses, strawberries, cherries, black currants, and cedar-spice box.  Showing great intensity, loads of fruit, medium body and an elegant, clean finish, it is a character-filled Italian red to consume over the next 1-2 years. 

Time once again to hit the road running and visit some wineries. This time it was the Naramata Bench and a quick stop at one of our favourite Okanagan Falls wineries.  The occasion (Is there really a need for an occasion?) this time was a group of friends from the Lower Mainland, Las Vegas and Michigan.  Great opportunity to show our neighbours to the south what we have in this little Shangri-La we call Okanagan Valley.

We met up with everyone at the new Poplar Grove winery.  Having been in the same location for the past 16 years, owners Tony Holler, Ian Sutherland and Barrie Sali have moved the winery to a new, much larger location where it will be able to handle the increase in production that the addition of 110 acres will bring them.

It was also an opportunity to pick up my August allocation from their wine club.  Wine club members are extremely lucky this quarter to be receiving the 2008 Syrah.  In April of this year, the Poplar Grove Syrah 2008 won the only GOLD Medal awarded to a Canadian winery at the 2011 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) in London, England.  A staggering 12,252 wines from 44 countries were tasted during the DWWA. 

Out of the 480 cases produced, 80% has been allocated to the wine club while the remaining 20% went to Vancouver area restaurants.  There will be nothing for retail or at the winery wine shop.  A very good reason to join a wine club. 

Next stop on the “Bench” was La Frenz Winery. Celebrating 12 years on the Naramata bench, owner/winemaker Jeff Martin is commemorating 41 vintages of winemaking, making him one of the most experience winemakers in BC.  While there, we tried the 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (crisp, clean orchard/tropical fruit), 2009 Cab Sauv (buckets of ripe black fruit) and the NV Liqueur Muscat (caramel, butterscotch, lychee nut & spicy cinnamon).

One of my favourite wineries is Laughing Stock.  Like La Frenz and Polar Grove, their wines have never disappointed me.  This summer look for the 2010 Blind Trust White, a delicious blend of 60% Pinot Gris, 22% Viognier, 9% Sauvignon Blanc, 9% Pinot Blanc and the wickedly luscious 2009 Chardonnay.  For reds, the 2008 Portfolio is one of the finest reds in BC.  A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot, it’s loaded with concentrated blackberry, cassis, licorice, chocolate, vanilla and toasty caramel. The texture on the palate is silky smooth, spicy and teeth-staining.

Last stop on the “Bench” was Van Westen Vineyards and the very affable Rob Van Westen.  Rob is one of the most down-to-earth people I know and literally always ready to explain to anyone who will listen what it takes to make great wine.  While all of Rob’s wine were excellent, the standouts were the 2010 Vino Grigio, 2009 Viognier, 2006 and 2007 Voluptuous.  

The Vino Grigio is a 100% Pinot Gris displaying loads of green apple, pear, apricot, peach, nectarine, melon, fresh citrus and grapefruit characteristics. The palate is fresh and lively with crisp tropical and orchard fruit, spicy white pepper and crisp acidity.  The Viognier is laden with rich tropical and orchard fruit, honey, white pepper and refreshing acidity. Try pairing it with mildly spiced curry dishes, entrees with fruit chutneys or fruit salsas or poached Halibut.

The two vintages of Voluptuous are slightly different even though they are exactly the same blend, 67% Merlot and 33% Cabernet Franc.  While the 2007 is full, rich and intense much like the 2006, the tannin and acidity on the finish is slightly softer than the 2006.  The 2006 still has grip of tannin that is going to allow it to age another 5 years easily.  The tannin on the ’06 is not aggressive but very well structured which is what I would expect for a wine at this stage of its evolution.  I bought a couple of bottles of each and plan to buy more of the ’06 over the coming months.

Our last stop was down the valley to Okanagan Falls and the iconic Blue Mountain Winery.  Started by Jane and Ian Mavety in 1971, for 21 years they supplied the old hybrid grapes and in 1986, premium grapes to commercial wineries.  In 1991, the Mavety’s finally started producing quality wines from their own 100% estate grown vines.  Today, the next generation of Mavety’s, son Matt as winemaker and daughter Christie are posed to continue in the tradition started those many years ago.  Although anyone who knows Jane and Ian even slightly would agree that they will never fully retired.

While there, we stocked up on more of their sparkling non-vintage Brut, 2009 Chardonnay and 2009 Pinot Noir.  Accounting for approximately 40% of their total production, the Brut is a blend of 61% Pinot Noir, 36% Chardonnay, and 3% Pinot Gris.  This is a fantastic wine with delicate fine, soft bubbles, fresh on the palate with mouth filling fruit flavour of apricots, pears and figs. The refreshing acidity and long creamy fruit-filled finish makes this perfect on its own or with salmon, prawns, spicy Thai rolls or goat cheese.

The Chardonnay is partially fermented and aged in stainless steel and with the remainder fermented and aged for 8 months in new to 3 year old French oak barrels.

The Chardonnay is partially fermented and aged in stainless steel and with the remainder fermented and aged for 8 months in new to 3 year old French oak barrels.  Displaying rich tropical and orchard fruit such as mango, pineapple and grapefruit with pear and red apple, the flavour mirrors the aroma with its fruit-dominated character with buttery, creamy vanilla and subtle oak finish. Soft and creamy on the palate with refreshingly crisp acidity, this is a perfect wine to serve with chilled lobster or cracked crab.

One of the best Pinot Noirs in BC, this wine is very smooth and round with vibrant black cherry, black plum, hints of toast, and smoke, the texture on the palate is velvety rich with lots of black fruit flavours, licorice, leather and peppery spice layered with smoky and toasty oak flavours.  A supple and smooth BC Pinot Noir, this is excellent to enjoy with lamb or duck.  This Pinot is quite age-able, able to cellar for another 3-5 years.

In Vino Veritas

The whole concept of pairing wine with food is simple.  The flavour and intensity of wine can change the way a food tastes and wine can alter the taste of a certain food.   Therefore, having the appropriate food to match the wine can greatly enhance your dining experience.

Most people already know the basics, i.e. white wine with white meats and red wine with red meats.  These are not specific “rules” but guidelines as you should mix it up, experiment and go with what you think is best.  If pairing a well-done Filet-Mignon with your medium-sweet German Riesling makes you happy, then go for it.  However, you will not achieve the same balance of flavours that you would by serving a red wine.

There are certain foods and wines that bring out the best of both.  You should at least consider trying a different type of wine with that Filet-Mignon even if it is something you would normally not drink.  What you are looking for is a blending of the two different taste sensations, wine and food, which will combine to create a third sensation, that is greater than the two.

Try selecting light-bodied wines to pair with lighter food and fuller-bodied wines with heartier, more flavourful dishes.  Take salmon for example.  A Pinot Noir works beautifully with this fish because you are matching a lighter food to a lighter wine.  A full-bodied, heavier wine would overpower this delicate dish.  Similarly, a lighter style wine will not even register on your personal flavour meter if you serve it with a hearty roast beef.

One of the main considerations when pairing wines with food is to consider how the meal is going to be prepared.  Look at whatever the sauce is, any seasonings or what the principal flavour of the dish is and pair the wine with the dish.  Conversely, start with a favourite wine and build your food around the wine.  If you love Sauvignon Blanc, thinks oysters.  A fine, old Bordeaux or a smoky Syrah is perfect with lamb and nothing beats Pinot Noir and duck.  For dessert, Port and chocolate are de rigueur.  When serving wines, be aware that dry white wines are served before red.

One more thing to consider is high alcohol wines.  Pairing a spicy dish like Jamaican Jerk Chicken with a high-alcohol red wine may seem like a good choice but in fact the heat in Jerk Sauce will ignite (figuratively) the alcohol in the wine to produce an unpleasantly hot, harsh impression.  A better choice is a low-alcohol, fruity wine like Riesling or a Gewürztraminer, which will tame the spicy flavours of the dish.

Above all, try not to place too much emphasize on finding the perfect pairing…it will find you.  Life is full of surprises and there is great joy in unearthing a new wine/food combination.  The best combination I have found is good food, good wine and good friends.  Enjoy.

In Vino Veritas

Caves de Rasteau ‘Prestige’ Rasteau Cotes du Rhône Villages 2005 $38

A blend of 50% Grenache, 35% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre from 50 year old head-pruned vines, this is incredibly dense with a ruby/purple colour, the intense black raspberry, cherry, cassis and kirsch liqueur-like fruit is followed by gorgeous aromas of licorice, smoke, incense, leather and a hint of oak. The texture on the palate is pure hedonism with its full-bodied character of black and red fruit, herbs, incense, and spice. This wine literally tastes more like a Châteauneuf du Pape ($60 per bottle) than a Cotes du Rhone Village. The finish is full-bodied, and opulent with soft, velvety acidity and very firm tannins, which is in keeping with this top-notch vintage. Cellar and drink this marvelous wine over the next decade.

Of all the grape varieties used to make wine, Gewürztraminer is, for many people, the most difficult to pronounce and needless to say, it is the Rodney Dangerfield of grapes, as it gets little respect.  In a world of grape varieties, Gewürztraminer can be equated to always being a bridesmaid but never a bride.  Moreover the average person hesitates in ordering it in a restaurant because of the pronunciation, preferring the easier Chardonnay or Riesling. 

Gewürztraminer, along with Sauvignon Blanc, is a relatively easy variety to identify due to the aromatics it produces so that even the novice wine drinker will be able recognize it.  Its aromas have been compared to lychee, rosewater, honeysuckle, mango and papaya, coconut, apricot, peach and allspice.  It has a distinctive and intensely spicy bouquet and can be made in a wide range of styles from the very dry and crisp (Alsatian) to slightly sweet and flabby (California) to lusciously sweet dessert wines.  A unique grape variety, it is capable of producing some of the world’s most unforgettable wine. 

While the French have achieved the greatest success with this grape mainly in the Alsace region and its name may be German, its history began in the Tyrollean Alps of Italy, near the village of Tramin in Alto Adige.  The International Organization of Vine and Wine (O.I.V.) states that it has been grown there since the Middle Ages, having been first recorded about the year 1000 A.D. 

Over the course of the next 600 years, the grape mutated, adapting to its environment, as it moved to Germany then Alsace where the French began calling it Traminer Musqué, Traminer Parfumé, or Traminer Aromatique.  In Germany, it was called Roter Traminer, no doubt because of the red hue of the grape and it was here that it obtained the “Gewürzt” name, reflecting the spicy character of the grape.  The name “Gewürzt” literally means peppered or spicy. 

Although “Gewürzt” is a white wine, the skin of its berries can range in colour from amber-gold to rose-coloured to purple-tinged with a pink colour resulting in light to dark golden, yellow wines, depending upon the fruit ripeness.  They have thick and tough skins and can reach amazingly high sugar levels, therefore alcohol levels can get quite high in dry versions.  Harvesting time is very crucial.  Grapes picked too early retain the acidity and if not allowed to hang on the vine until fully ripe, the characteristic varietal aromas and flavours will fail to develop. 

Gewürztraminer cannot grow in every type of climate but does very well in cooler regions and only in certain areas of California, Oregon and Washington State are conditions suitable.  Here in BC, Gewürztraminer does very well, accounting for almost 10% of total white grapes planted (2010 BC Grape Acreage Report), a drop of 5% from the 2008 report.

Here is a selection of spectacular Gewürzt’s currently on the market.       

The first time I had this wine was at proprietor Harry McWatters house in 1993 and I think it was the ’91 or ’92 vintage.  We had spicy chicken wings, washed down with the Gewürzt and it was a magical paring.  The 2010 Sumac Ridge Private Reserve Gewürztraminer  shows once again why it is one of the top selling Gewürztraminer’s in North America.  Loaded with aromas of intense orange rind, ripe grapefruit, nectarine, lychee and rose petal with green apple and candied ginger, the palate is soft and lush with nectarine, peach, honey and ginger with a crisp citrussy finish.  Perfect with spicy foods.   

The aromatic, floral-scented 2010 Desert Hills Gewürztraminer is packed with aromas of spicy, perfumed lychee nut, nectarine, grapefruit, green apple with a crisp herbal edge and a hint of anise, the palate is all tropical and orchard fruit with a dry, crisp and fresh finish. This wine has good acidity, structure and balance. 

Wild Goose makes some of the best Gewürztraminer in BC and the 2010 Wild Goose Mystic River Gewürztraminer is a classic.  Winner of the Best of Varietal competition at the 2010 Okanagan Spring Wine Festival, this wine is loaded with rich tropical fruit, rose petal, orange peel, lychee nut and nutmeg, this is a lush and very intensely aromatic wine.  Fine acidity on the finish gives this wine perfect balance.

In Vino Veritas

Over the past two decades, the global wine business has become extremely competitive and today even the most elite of wine countries face very stiff competition.  All one has to do is look at the French wine category in BC with its steady decline over the past decade or more and the huge growth in the Australian and Argentine sectors.   However, the wine business does not stand still and those countries that do tend to be left in the dust.  Competition for shares in the world market is ever increasing and even Australia must now worry about challengers from countries such as Argentina and Chile.

While wine is produce in other areas of South America, it is invariably Argentina and Chile that come to mind when South American wines are mentioned.  Of these two regions, Argentina has become the most prominent, taking over from Chile.  In recent years, the country has been producing some fantastic wines at great prices and consumers are snapping up these bargains. 

Since the debut of Chilean wine in the BC market over 20 years ago, they have, for the most part, been known for their good value wine with the occasional stellar bottling that captures the wine world by surprise.  Nevertheless, with the vast array of varieties like Syrah, Carmenère, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir being produced in unique microclimate valleys such as Colchagua, Limari, Leyda, Casablanca and others, the potential for Chile is endless. 

In terms of scale, in 1995 there were just 49 wineries in Chile.  In 2009, that number had grown to 210 with vineyards covering a total of over 310,000 acres (to put that into perspective, BC has about 9500 acres).  More than 70% of the wine is exported to 150 countries making it the world’s most globalized wine industry and it remains a wine country that is one step away from achieving world wide acceptance and producing wines that could rival the great wines of France. 

While the number one planted variety is still Cabernet Sauvignon, accounting for 44% of vineyards, Carmenère has grown tremendously from 815 acres in 1997 to almost 21000 acres in 2008.  However, it’s only been the last 4 years that consumers have discovered Carmenère.

Argentine ranks as the fifth largest wine producing country in the world, about four times that of Chile with a staggering 1341 wineries as of 2009.  Yet prior to 2002, wine exports were about only 4% of production.  Most of the wine produced was the rustic ‘Vino de Mesa’ or table wine meant for domestic consumption only.  Then in 2002, an economic crisis forced the near collapse of their economy and caused the peso to be devalued.  This allowed for a massive influx of foreign investment from wine companies such as Kendall-Jackson from California, Codorníu from Spain and Pernod Ricard from France.  With this investment came increased technology and production of better wines and now about 21% of wine production is destined for exports, according to government statistics.  However, the remaining 79% is still consumed in Argentina.

Malbec is the dominant variety in Argentina accounting for 25% of all red grapes planted with Cabernet and Syrah coming in at 18% and 13% respectively.  In 1990, the Malbec plantings were almost 25000 acres.  In 2008, they had grown to over 66000 acres.

This weekend we take a look at some wines from Argentina and Chile that are perfect for backyard or even campground grilling.

HOLY COW!!! What a killer wine.  The 2009 Santa Julia Magna ($22) has everything but the kitchen sink.  A knockout Argentine red, this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Malbec (40%), and Syrah (10%) offers intense aromas and flavours of spicy black cherry, sweet cassis, creamy vanilla, mint, black olive and tobacco with fresh herbs, smoky/roasted coffee beans, cedar and hints of fresh mushroom.  A full-bodied, multi-dimensional wine, its perfect with a grilled steak or mixed grill — actually, it needs food.  Ready to drink now or cellar over the next 4-5 years. An exceptional wine at a fantastic price.

Also from Argentina, the 2008 La Posta ‘Paulucci Vineyard’ Malbec ($29) is an intense, concentrated wine, inky black/purple in colour with buckets of rich black fruit, licorice and floral notes. The palate is succulent with juicy black fruit character, anise and spice with velvety soft acidity and firm tannins. This wine is a real stunner.

From Chile, the 2007 Castillo de Molina Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva ($20) is an intense, full-bodied Cabernet exhibiting concentrated aromas and flavours of blackberry, cassis, liquorice, black olive, menthol and cigar box.  The soft acidity and firm tannins on the finish make this a wine that has some aging potential.  Ready to enjoy now for the sheer intensity or it can be cellared for another 3-5 years.  A killer wine and excellent value, this is a perfect candidate for a grilled rib-eye.  Holy smokes, I love the taste of this wine.  Great for weekend BBQ’s.

The term ‘Family Vintage’ is actually the Palacios family’s name for their Gran Reserva wine, the top tier that they produce.  A deep, intensely purple/violet colour, the 2007 Viña Tres Palacios Family Vintage Carménère is a delicious Chilean bargain displaying aromas and flavours of rich blackberry, black cherry, cocoa, vanilla, clove and cinnamon mixed with cedar, tobacco, black tea and tobacco.  The palate is loaded with fresh, jammy black fruit, spice and chocolate with a hint of menthol, cigar box and great complexity.  Soft, lush acidity and firm tannins round out this spectacular wine.  Fantastic with grilled steak, roasted potatoes, caramelized onions and sautéed mushrooms.