Walk into any wine shop and you should be able to tell which grape varieties are the most popular.  Go to Australian and you will a plethora of Shiraz along with some Cabernet and Chardonnay.  Check out the U.S. and Cabernet and Chardonnay tend to be the most popular.  However, there is one variety that is gaining respect from North American consumers and it is taking the wine world by storm especially here in BC and that is Malbec.  And no more is this evident than in the Argentine wine section.

Long known for the Tango, Evita, and its great beef, Argentina has also been cultivating its image and educating consumers as a serious wine producer and competitor to neighbouring Chilean vineyards.  Amid its other vinous offerings, no wine has become more associated with Argentina than Malbec.

Originally grown throughout France, it has other synonyms such as Auxerrois, Cot or Malbeck.  In Bordeaux, it is one of the “big five” of red wine grapes, a staple component of the red wines.  However, its fame and fortune often ended there.  It was largely a failure in France because of vine disease and major frost damage in 1956. Winemakers generally used it for blending with very little vine being devoted to its improvement or success.

Ironically enough, Malbec has seen a renaissance of sorts in France, largely due to its success in Argentina and it is now being grown successfully in the southwestern region of France, in Cahors.  This wine used to be black as coal and tough as leather but improvements in viticultural and vinification techniques have led to riper, softer, more approachable wines that are now amongst the best of the region.

The story in Argentina is quite the opposite.  Vine cuttings were imported to Argentina in the late 1800’s where it found fame and glory and has turned into the premier wine.  It acquires different characteristics according to the weather and soil conditions where it is grown and in certain areas, it reaches its highest development, surpassing other regions in the country.

It flourishes in Mendoza, a region of Argentina adjacent to the Andes that receives very little rainfall, and were it not for the ready supply of water from the Andes snowcap, viticulture would not be possible.

Another important factor is altitude.  The vineyards in the Mendoza Valley are quite elevated, with the highest vineyards receiving the extra UV light that the grapes need to develop thicker skins, with more tannins (softer tannins, too), as well as more colour.  The night time cooling effect of these high altitude vineyards means that the grapes preserve acidity even when they are allowed to hang for quite a while before harvest.

Characterized by a spicy, dark fruit, these Malbec wines can be complex, intense, and worthy of aging.  In fact, they can compete with Bordeaux several times the price.

The country that has been called the “sleeping giant” of the global wine industry by Wine Spectator magazine is now poised to have its excellent wines available on an international scale.

April 17 is Malbec World Day so pick up a bottle of this delicious varietal and discover new territory.

Malbec Picks:

As the popularity of this varietal has exploded so too will the number of poor examples that show up on store shelves, more than likely with splashy labels.  And while these wines are relatively inexpensive, just imagine what they would cost without the punishing 123% tax imposed by the BCLDB, the provincial liquor monopoly.

The 2008 Sur de Los Andes ($17) is loaded with ripe blackcurrant, black plum, tobacco leaf, licorice, mushroom, and violet aromas.  The palate is rich and hedonistic with its velvety, supple texture, spicy black fruit flavours and an intense smoky/peppery characteristic not usually found in a wine at this price.  Offers a great introduction to Malbec and far exceeds its price point.

You could have great difficulty finding another Malbec that competes with the 2011 Casa de Campo ($12) at this price for depth, breadth, complexity, and length.  The colour is almost a dark purple, aroma of black raspberries, black currants, crushed dried berries, cocoa, and grilled meat.  On the mid-palate, the wine is pure, supple, and medium to full-bodied with flavours that are an extension of the aromas intertwined with plums, chocolate and toasty oak.  This wine is incredibly versatile with food and is a tremendous value.

The colour of the 2010 Graffigna Reserve ($15) is a stunning wine boasting black plum, cassis, blackberry, black cherry, with rich vanilla, chocolate, roasted mushrooms, and tobacco leaf.  The palate is richly textured with ripe black fruit flavours, roasted red pepper, leather, tobacco leaf, chocolate pudding, vanilla, and spicy pepper.  Outstanding!!

The 2011 La Chamiza ($14) is another great value red from Argentina.  Absolutely incredible, look for aromas of smoked meat (think pastrami), loads of juicy, spicy blackberry, cassis, dried black olives, anise and leather.  The palate is soft and velvety with medium to full-bodied with silky smooth acidity and medium tannin.