Here is a wine question for you.  What do the grape varieties Tokay d’Alsace, Grauburgunder, Pinot Gris, Grauer Mönch, Pinot Grigio and Ruländer all have in common?  Give up?  They are all the synonyms of the same grape.  A genetic mutation of the red grape, Pinot Noir, it is known by these names throughout Europe.

In Italy, the grape is called Pinot Grigio and is produced in a leaner style while Pinot Gris as made in France, Germany, California, Oregon, BC and other New World areas tend to be fuller-bodied, with a certain opulence and an almost oiliness which adds to the wine’s texture and finish.

When fully ripe, the colour of the grape can range from bluish grey to light pinkish brown and it is not unusual to have clusters with a variety of colours.  In fact, the name “Gris” means grey in French while “Pinot” means “pine cone” referring to the pine cone shape of the clusters.

In Italy, the wine is light-bodied, often lean with refreshing apple, pear, and lemon-lime and sometimes with a spritzy, crisp, acidic texture.  Grown mainly in the Friuli region of north-eastern Italy, this area produces the largest quantity in the world and the style of wine was originally meant to compliment the Slovenian-influenced cuisine of the area.

In Hungary, the variety is known as Badacsony Szürkebarát after the region (Badacsony) and the English translation for Szürkebarát, which is Grey Monk.  In fact, there used to be a wine sold in BC called Badacsony Szürkebarát and I remember it as being quite a refreshingly delicious summer wine.

German Pinot Gris is called Ruländer or Grauburgunder and is most commonly found in the southwest regions of Baden and Pfalz.  Ruländer is often used to denote the sweeter version while Grauburgunder is more associated with drier, Burgundy-style versions.

Some of the finest quality of Pinot Gris comes from the Alsace region of eastern France.  Here it was called Tokay d’Alsace (no relation to the Hungarian Tokay or Tokai).  The Alsatians value it as a full-bodied wine that can balance the richness of their food without introducing any flavours of its own.  Beginning with the 2006 vintage, Tokay d’Alsace is now called Pinot Gris as part of the agreement for Hungary’s accession to the EU.

In North America, one would look to Oregon as the instigator to the Pinot Gris craze.  There as with BC this early ripening variety is heat-sensitive grape and prefers the long, moderate summer days with cool nights and an even cooler fall.  Picked early, the wine tends to be light, fruity and acidic much in the “Grigio” style while extended hang-time will bring out the rich, sweeter tropical fruit aromas and flavours.  In hotter climates, it can ripen too fast.

Here in BC, Pinot Gris has become the largest planted white grape, with 1066 acres planted (almost 23% of total white grapes, (2011 BC Grape Acreage Report) while Chardonnay is bumped to second place with 917 acres.  Previously, Pinot Gris was often referred to as “the other white wine” and there is a very good reason for the increased popularity of this wine.  Unlike its Italian cousin, it tends to be very fruit-forward and unlike the Oregon version, very much less expensive.

Here is a selection to tempt your palate.

Some of the wines from the 2011 vintage are starting to hit store shelves and the 2011 Hester Creek Pinot Gris ($19) is one of them.  A deliciously, well-made wine, look for loads of orchard and tropical fruit such as ripe apple, pear, grapefruit and papaya with sweet lemon, honey and honeydew melon.  The palate has a hint of sweetness but is balanced by the crisp acidity.  Excellent wine.

Loaded to the brim with luscious fruit aromas, the 2011 Wild Goose Pinot Gris ($21) is full of pink grapefruit, apricot, pear, Fuji apple with peach, nectarine and a hint of honey.  The flavours of citrus and tropical fruit and honey carry on and on through to the soft, slightly off-dry finish.  Superb with pan-seared jumbo prawns or scallops with garlic butter, Basa fillets or Fettuccine Alfredo.

The 2011 Lake Breeze Pinot Gris ($20) is another winner.  A big aromatic wine displaying loads of green apple, pear, apricot, peach, nectarine, melon, fresh citrus and grapefruit characteristics, the palate is fresh and lively with crisp tropical and orchard fruit, spicy white pepper, an unctuous texture and crisp acidity.

The Tollo Pinot Grigio ($13/1L) is a brilliant green-tinged colour with a fresh, crisp red apple, citrus, mineral, white peach, creamy pear and toasted almonds. This is a light-styled Pinot Grigio, fresh and well balanced with good depth, fine acidity and balance with a long, attractive finish. Serve with shellfish, Paella, pasta or chicken salads.

Wine News:

Be sure to purchase your tickets early for the 18th Annual Okanagan Spring Wine Festival, running from May 3rd to May 13th.  This ten-day festival offers everyone an opportunity to experience the finest of food and wine in the Okanagan.  And what a better way to celebrate the growing season than to hold a Festival during bud break!

Choose from an incredible 100 plus events throughout the Okanagan at a time of year when it is an absolute delight to savour spring in the warm sunshine.  The Okanagan Spring Wine Festival has been described as “one of Canada’s best small festivals” and it is no wonder that its success continues to grow.  Check out their website at www.thewinefestivals.com for a list of events and dinners or pick up a brochure at select wine shops.  You can also find the brochure on-line here.  See you there!!

If you have any questions about wine, beer or spirits, just email me.