With the warm weather approaching, the style of wine that we usually get pleasure from tends to change.  Gone are the heavy reds that we enjoyed with winter meals.  Now we are looking for something a little more refreshing.  And of all the grape varieties used in the production of wine, one of the most misunderstood and under-rated is Riesling.  Long considered one of the ‘noble’ grape varieties, it produces wines of elegance and sophistication that can run the gamut from bone dry to very sweet.

With its delicious tropical and orchard fruit flavours of grapefruit, peach, pear, apple and lime, Riesling complements a wide range of foods and offers a variety of characteristics, from easy-drinking fruity summer wines, to liquid conundrums that assault the palate with their hedonistic texture.

Certain wine-producing regions have demonstrated the ability to produce top-notch Riesling.  Without a doubt, the finest come from Germany where, like BC, they are particularly suited to the cooler climate (the vines are particularly hard-wooded and are tolerant of cold weather).

The best of these is considered to come from the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer or Mosel for short. Here the wines are traditionally low in alcohol (7.5-9.5%) and have a perfect balance between acidity, freshness of flavour and aromatic richness. Some can age better than any other white wines and will develop astounding complexity over time without losing the vivaciousness that makes them so appealing in their youth.

A way word of caution, though. Like any major purchase, a little due diligence goes a long way. Do your research on any wines you are designating for your cellar and long-term storage.

After Germany, Alsace is the next best source of great Riesling, particularly in those vineyard sites that have been designated Grand Cru. This is the most Germanic region of France and it is the only region in France where the Riesling grape is permitted. Here the variety makes an ideal aperitif and it tends to be drier, more powerful and have a higher alcohol level (often 12%) compared with its German counterpart.

Dry, refined and delicately fruity, the aromas are elegant and sophisticated with mineral or floral notes and can have all the characteristics of great white Burgundies with a dose of crisp acid, giving it good aging potential. They are a perfect match with shellfish appetizers, cured meats and heavy cuisines of all types.

BC Riesling is probably best known for the Icewine produced from it. However, there is a whole different world of Riesling available to the consumer all you have to do is look. The aromas and flavours of BC Riesling are stunning to say the least and because this variety is a late ripener, it shows very well in BC and especially around the Kelowna area.

One of the finest I’ve had is from the former Pinot Reach winery, now Tantalus. I have had the chance to sample a selection of the Rieslings from this vineyard dating from 1994, ’96, ’97, ’99 and 2000 and to say that BC Rieslings do not age well this proves that myth wrong.

Australia is the country more known for its Shiraz but the Rieslings from Australia are one of a kind. They are typically dry and light bodied with refreshing acidity. Always un-wooded, some of the best Australian Riesling are produced in the cool climate Clare and Eden Valleys and in Coonawarra were they make wines that are intensely aromatic with citrus and tropical fruit and a palate that is bone dry with crisp acidity. They display the characteristics of the grape that we expect: the perfume, the complexity and the zestiness but its dryness makes it a superior match to food.

So join the ABC crowd (Anything But Chardonnay) and discover what Riesling holds for you. It’s the perfect wine, whether it is winter or summer, just right to enjoy with family and friends. Better still, if it has a screw cap or Stelvin closure, it will keep the wine fresh and lively. But that’s another story.

Riesling Wine Picks:

There are only about 90 cases left out of over 700 of the 2010 Orofino Riesling ($25).  Sourced from the winery owner John and Virginia Weber’s own 21-year-old vines along with Riesling from the nearby 5 year-old Scout vineyard and neighbour’s Lee and Cheryl Hendsbee’s 4 year old vineyard, this is a great tasting Riesling, loaded with buckets of fresh green apple, lime, white peach, pear, nectarine with hints of honey, clover, orange and mango.  The palate and texture is lush and juicy with intense orchard and tropical fruit and an almost creamy mouth, while the finish is tart and crisp making this a perfect wine to pair with spicy Asian dishes or Indian curries.  This is one of the finer wines from the difficult 2010 vintage.

One of the best Riesling’s in BC, the 2010 Wild Goose Riesling ($19) explodes with fresh aromas of ripe grapefruit, pineapple, white peach, red apple, and lime with hints of apricot, nectarine and honey. Loaded with buckets of juicy tropical and orchard fruit, the super-zesty acidity is almost spritzy with its cleansing, mouth-watering vibrancy. A fantastic example of great BC Riesling, there is very little of this left at the retail level as the 2011 is about to be released so grab some while you can.

Winner of the Lieutenant Governor’s Awards for Excellence in British Columbia Wines, the 2009 St. Hubertus Riesling ($18) is a delicious wine bursting with vibrant aromas of green apple, peach, pear, apricot, nectarine, lime, with hints of tropical pineapple and grapefruit.  The palate is brimming with honeyed apple, peach, pear, with a soft, luscious texture and crisp acidity on the creamy, lingering finish.  Very hard not to guzzle this wine it is so decadent.

The 2010 Monster Riesling ($22) is stunning.  Produced as a second label of sorts for the iconic Poplar Grove Winery, this is a straw-gold colour, loaded with summer aromatics of peach, pear, apple and nectarine with hints of lime and mineral. Not exactly on the tropical side of the flavour spectrum, it is more a blend of old world Mosel with new world Aussie Riesling. The palate is just slightly off-dry but vibrant with tons of juicy orchard fruit, a hint of petrol notes and crisp, clean, refreshing acidity on the finish.  I know all this because I have a glass of the Monster Riesling while I’m typing this note. I love my job.