A look at the Southern Rhone Valley

Posted on June 13, 2012 by FirstPressings

Of all the wine regions of the world, none has benefited from such a string of successful vintages as the Southern Rhone valley.  With the exception of the disastrous 2002 and the mediocre 2008 vintage, this marvellous viticultural area has enjoyed a stretch of outstanding to extraordinary vintages from 1998 to 2009 with 2010 looking to be another blockbuster vintage.

This vast ancient region, which stretches from the town of Montélimar south to Avignon, produces some of the most spectacular wines in the world some meant for immediate enjoyment, others for long term cellaring.  It is one of the largest AOC appellations in France, in terms of surface area and production levels, second only to Bordeaux.

Viticulture started in the Rhone around 125 BC with the arrival of the Romans.  To supplement the soldier’s wages, they were partially paid with wine and when they retired, they were given land for agriculture.  Grape growing and the production of wine was a natural consequence of Roman conquests.

The region has enjoyed a resurgence in quality and reputation over the past 15 years mainly because of vastly improved viticultural and vinification techniques.  One could point to a second generation of growers and winemakers as the cause for this. The wines are usually blended, with each grape variety contributing its own individual characteristics.  Compared to the other great wine producing areas of France such as Bordeaux and Burgundy, the wines produced are relatively inexpensive.

Grenache is the main grape of the area for red wines comprising at least 40% of the mix and forms the basis of the wines, giving fruitiness, warmth and body.  Syrah and Mourvèdre add spice, colour and strength to the wine, allowing it to age well.

Some are ready to drink soon after bottling, displaying a shiny ruby red/purple colour with aromas of warm blackberry and cherry fruits, scents of dried herbs such as lavender, juniper, bay leaf, fennel, rosemary, sage and thyme which are often used in the cooking (see Herbes de Provence).  The palate is in most cases ripe with an almost sweet black fruit character with dried herbs and a not unattractive earthiness.  The better examples often offer a supple, velvety texture on the palate along with a spicy, peppery kick on the finish.

White wines also tend to be the result of blending several grapes, such as Bourboulenc, Grenache white, Roussanne, Marsanne, Clairette and sometimes Viognier.  These varieties make aromatic, full-bodied wines, some of which can age very well.

This week we take a look at a few wines from different areas within this vast region.

The best-known appellation in the southern Rhone Valley is the massive Côtes du Rhône, which covers 171 communes (villages).  This huge area (almost 100, 000 acres) makes up 90% of the entire production of the region with 95% of that being red wine.   The wines made in the communes offer a great variety of styles and are of an extremely high quality.

An absolutely sensational wine, the 2009 Domaine Lafond Cotes du Rhone “Roc-Epine” ($25) is a blend of Grenache 70% and Syrah 30%, aged in cement and stainless steel.  This wine has seen no oak at all but is still profoundly complex.  Showcasing a vibrant purple-red colour, aromas of super-ripe blackberry, cassis and raspberry with violets/roses/lilacs and sweet black licorice.  The palate is full-bodied with layers upon layers of black fruit flavours, silky tannins and a concentration that puts this humble Cotes du Rhone way above its status.  The creamy texture reveals a lush, velvety intensity with a long finish making this an irresistible wine to enjoy now but will also age well for another 1-2 years.

Long regarded as the best of the named villages, Cairanne is one of the original four villages to granted Côtes du Rhône-Villages appellation status in 1953 (there are now 16).  The 2010 Domaine de L’Ameillaud Cairanne Cotes du Rhone-Villages ($25) is a fabulous example of what high quality Cotes du Rhône can be like.  A delicious blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 15% Carignan and 5% Mourvèdre from 45 year old vines, the wine exhibits buckets of smoke, tar, cassis, blackberry, black cherry jam, licorice, garrigue, dried herbs and peppery five spice aromas and flavours.  The texture on the palate is full and lush with rich black fruit, smoke, spice, soft acidity, and firm tannins. This is one wine that will cellar for another decade.  Spectacular.

The Perrin’s are one of the oldest winemaking families in the Rhone if not France.  Their stunning achievement is the iconic Chateau Beaucastel.  However, their 2009 Perrin Vinsobres ($25) is a winner.  One of the best value Cru wines on the market, this wine is incredibly dense with a ruby/purple colour, the intense black raspberry, cherry, cassis and kirsch liqueur-like fruit is followed by gorgeous aromas of licorice, smoke, incense, leather and a hint of oak. The texture on the palate is pure hedonism with its full-bodied character of black and red fruit, herbs, incense, and spice.  This wine literally tastes more like a Châteauneuf du Pape ($60-$100 per bottle).  And why not.  It is on the same level as a CDP but without the price tag.  The finish is full-bodied, and opulent with soft, velvety acidity and very firm tannins, which is in keeping with this top-notch vintage.  Cellar and drink this marvelous wine over the next decade.

I would certainly be remiss if I did not mention Châteauneuf-du-Pape.  The area around Orange and Avignon is home to this spectacular wine, by far the most well-known of all the southern Rhone wines.  The area takes its name from the small village, which means ‘Pope’s new castle’, which was the summer home of the Avignon Popes during the 14thC.  One of the secrets of this outstanding area is the amazingly stony ground, the large round stones, called “les cailloux” which act as heat storage, soaking up the Mediterranean sunshine during the day and releasing the heat at night.

An excellent example of the wines from this prestigious region, the 2007 Saint Prefert Châteauneuf-du-Pape ($66) is a blend of is a blend of 80% Grenache and 10% Cinsault, 5% Syrah and 5% Mourvèdre.  Loaded with fragrant aromas of sweet raspberry, kirsch, strawberries, spice box, leather and smoke, the palate is well structured with its rich flavours of black and red fruits, spice, garrigue, soft acidity and firm tannins.  Fantastic to enjoy now for the sheer power of it but will reward with 10-12 years of further cellaring.

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Think Pink: A look at blush and Rosé (roe-zay) wines

Posted on May 30, 2012 by FirstPressings

The warm weather has finally arrived in BC and that means backyard BBQ’s.  While our thoughts may turn to cold, thirst-quenching beers and crisp, mouth-watering whites, there is one other wine category that has been very badly mistreated over the last couple of decades.  Granted, it is probably the fault of certain wine producers who have made appalling examples of the wine.  However, it seems that there may be a revolution underway, albeit a quiet one.  Rosé and blush wines are becoming the beverage of choice to enjoy when the weather turns warm.

Now, rosé and blush wine are two different names for the same wine with rosé being the European term while blush is a North American name.  They can be produced strictly from red grapes or a combination of red and white wines, blended together to achieve a particular colour.  Both wines can be awful or they can be spectacular, it just depends on how and what the winemaker wants to achieve.  Both have been described as the red wine drinkers white wine because it can sometimes bridge the gap between the two styles, red and white.

The production of Rose involves breaking the skins of a red grape, allowing the juice to mix with the skins to extract some colour and some of the grape’s characteristics.  Fermentation then continues as normal for a white wine, most often in stainless steel.  The intensity of colour will vary, depending on the grape varieties used and the length of time the skins remain in contact with the juice.  Extended skin contact will yield a wine almost red in colour while a very short maceration period may produce a wine that is nearly but not quite white.  The finished wines are typically ready to drink early, not meant to age.  The whole process is called Saignée (say-NAY), which means, “to bleed.”

Many so-called wine experts look down their noses at rose or blush wines, describing them as “simple” and “lacking complexity.”  While this may be somewhat true in that they are not full-bodied red or lush white wines, the better rosés do have a complexity not found in other wines.  A short time ago, no self-respecting wine drinker would touch the stuff, as pink wine meant sweet white zinfandel, tasting of candy floss and bubble gum.  Then the wine world discovered the pleasures of superb French rosés, Italian rosatos and Spanish rosados; dry, crisp pink wines that are perfect for summertime dining.  How can anyone be pretentious when they are drinking a pink wine?  There is enough seriousness, if not downright snobbery about wine already.  Rosés wines are all about fun and pleasure.

Good rosés are fruity with high acidity and the best ones have the freshness of a white wine with some of the tannins and depth of a red.  Out of fashion are the sugary, sweet wines such as white zinfandel, white merlot, and others of the same ilk.  Crisp, dry rosés have become the trend and they are fantastic with typical summer fare, barbecues, and picnics.  They are easy and light, perfect for a casual atmosphere, with a mild flavour and good acidity levels, allowing for pairing with a wide variety of foods and they are best enjoyed chilled and therefore are refreshing on a warm/hot afternoon.

This weekend, we take a look at some of the excellent roses that are on the market, both local and imported.  On a hot, Okanagan day, these wines are fantastic.

The 2011 Tantalus Rose ($26) is produced from a small block of Pinot Meunier vines planted in 1985 and a tiny component of Pinot Noir also planted in 1985.  Showing vibrant aromas and flavours of fresh strawberry, cherry, raspberry, and pink grapefruit, this flavoursome well-balanced wine is perfect for picnics or on the patio before dinner.  Finished with a screwcap for the ultimate in freshness.

Also from Spain in the region of Navarra, the 2010 Gran Feudo ($17) is produced from Garnacha.  Boasting fresh aromas of ripe Bing cherry, cranberry, red plum, with hints of orange blossoms, watermelon, and pomegranate, the palate has just a hint of sweetness but balanced by crisp acidity allowing the fresh citrus and red fruits to shine through.

The non-vintage Mumm Napa Blanc de Noir ($33) sparkling is stunning.  A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, a small portion of the Pinot Noir grapes are fermented on skins producing the soft fruity character that gives Brut Rosé its directness, while the Chardonnay gives the wine elegance and structure.  Showcasing beautiful scents of sweet rhubarb, raspberry and cherry on nose with fresh, clean strawberry and cherry flavours and a consistent bead, this is an excellent match for fried appetizers such as calamari or light desserts such as crème brulée. Excellent on its own or with fresh fruit, the finish is clean and crisp and begs for another sip.

Back to BC, we have the 2011 Joie Rosé ($26).  A blend of Gamay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Gris, this is a delicious wine with aromas of strawberry and cherry with a just a hint of sweetness but balanced by the vibrant acidity, making this wine dry and crisp.  A superb Rosé not too unlike the classic Tavel Rosé of southern Rhone.

The View Winery in southeast Kelowna produces a Frizzante ($23) wine they call Distraction. The 2001 version is a blend of Pinotage, Riesling and Gewurztraminer.  This is a soft explosion of the fresh fruit aromas and flavours of cherry, strawberry and cranberry with a gentle squeeze of lemon and peach flourishing at the finish.  It combines lightness, freshness with terrific fruit intensity, delicate floral notes and bubbles that gently dance on your palate.  At only 12.5%, this wine has danger written all over it.

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Wines for B-B-Q Grilling

Posted on May 23, 2012 by FirstPressings

The unseasonal warm weather here in the Okanagan (the average mean temperature for May is 13ºC) means getting out and enjoying the outdoors and barbequing is the quintessential outdoor food activity.  The wafting scent of beef, chicken or fish grilling is unlike any other cooking aroma and when you have a great bottle of wine open and ready to accompany the meal, it is a sensation that can transcend all others.  However, having the perfect food ready to eat does not mean picking any wine to serve.  Some of the same guidelines that steer us throughout the year still apply to BBQ.

Sparkling wines are seemingly always associated with a celebration of some sort whether it is a wedding or New Years Eve.  Actually, they are well suited for al fresco enjoyment, seemingly able to quench the thirst and give more pleasure particularly ones produced by the Charmat method.  Their effervescence, crisp acidity and lighter weight make them wonderful pre-dinner companions.  The sparkle gives an added element that counterbalances the spiciness in hot peppers and its crisp acidity cuts cleanly through dishes that are rich or a little oily.

Warm weather white wines fall into the same criteria as sparkling wines…they should be crisp, clean wines with vibrant, racy acidity that borders on a mouth-watering, thirst-quenching texture.  Leave behind those heavy, oak-dominated Chardonnays and try a crisp Sauvignon Blanc from BC or New Zealand.

Here is a wine that is extremely popular and which delivers a sharp variation to other wines.  This is an outstanding variety — loaded with a profusion of different aromas and flavours from the green/herbal/vegetative side to fresh green-apple/grapefruit/passion-fruit fruitiness all wrapped up in a zesty acidic frame.  It is a very versatile food wine that can complement everything from shellfish and Caesar salad to fried chicken and aged Jarlsberg cheese.

A Riesling from BC or Australia goes well with almost any grilled meat such as chicken, veal, pork, pheasant, turkey or quail.  With its delicious tropical and orchard fruit flavours of grapefruit, peach, pear, apple and lime, Riesling complements all types of foods and offers a wide range of characteristics, from easy-drinking fruity summer wines, to liquid conundrums that assault the palate with their explosion of hedonistic texture.

Not so long ago, many wine-geeks looked down their noses at rosé or blush wines, describing them as “simple” and “lacking complexity”.  While this may be somewhat true in that they are not full-bodied red or lush white wines, the better rosés do have a complexity not found in other wines.

Good Rosés should be fruity, with snappy acidity and have the freshness of a white wine with some of the tannins and depth of a red.  Crisp, dry rosés have now become the trend and they are fantastic with typical summer fare, barbecues and picnics.  They are easy and light, perfect for a casual atmosphere, with a mild flavour and good acidity levels, allowing for pairing with a wide variety of foods.  They are best enjoyed chilled and therefore are refreshing on a warm/hot afternoon.  Try with mushroom caps stuffed with cream cheese, diced ham and chives.

Red wines are still the favourite for the backyard B-B-Q but instead of the heavy reds of winter opt for some of the lighter style reds that are available.  Zinfandels are the perfect summer red with most being soft and fruit-driven wines.  For grilled chicken or salmon fillets, go with a Pinot Noir.  A Gamay from Beaujolais works well if you are having burgers, pasta or grilled Panini sandwiches.  It even goes with fish.  One of the most popular varieties is Grenache.  Check out the many styles available from Spain or the blended versions from southern France.

When choosing the wines, try not to make the mistake of picking wines that are too heavily oaked, or those with a combination of oak, smoke and spice.  These wines have a tendency to overwhelm the taste buds depending on the food being served.  What you are looking for is a balance in flavours.

Wine Tip:

The main problem with barbecues is keeping white wine, and other drinks cool.  A couple of large buckets filled with ice, cold water and a ½ cup of salt should do the trick.  What the salt does is causes the ice to melt at a lower temperature so it stays colder longer.  Also, no wine tastes great if you leave it out in the sun so keep all your bottles, even reds cool.

BBQ Wine Picks:

The big brother of the bargain-priced Monseran, the 2008 Castillo de Monseran Old Vine Grenache ($15.90) continues to prove why Spanish wines are on the upswing. Produced from low yielding 50 year old Grenache vines, this wine is loaded with youthful, fresh aromas of jammy black cherry, black raspberry, sweet licorice and creamy vanilla-scented oak with hints of baked earth, dried herbs and forest floor. The soft, juicy black and red fruit flavours coats the palate with a lush, full-bodied texture followed by soft acidity, firm, lip-smacking tannins and a long, deep finish. Excellent with a mild Manchego.

A classic example of what this variety is capable of when grown properly the 2009 Veramonte Reserve Pinot Noir ($20) is brimming with decadent aromas of rich cherry, raspberry, smoke leather, forest floor characteristics and subtle spicy oak.  The texture is pure Burgundian, soft, velvety and rich with a stunningly long, long finish.  Superb with rich meat/game dishes with mushroom-based sauces

Lodi is to Zinfandel what Napa is to Cabernet. Lodi Zins are delicious wines with great depth and complexity.  This wine comes from vineyards with not just old vines but ancient vines, some 100 years old.  The vines are low yielding but provide fruit of excellent quality.  A big wine for the price, the 2010 Flying Winemaker Old Vine Zinfandel ($23) is loaded with complex aromas of black cherry, raspberry, red plums and cassis with hints of raspberry jam, smoke, Asian spice and a smooth vanilla-scented oakiness.   Rich and full on the palate with ripe cherry, blackberry, plums, spice and a hint of vanilla culminating in a lingering finish.  Soft, chewy tannins add to the luscious texture of this excellent wine.  Great with a rotisserie grilled pepper-crusted roast.

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Tequila

Posted on May 16, 2012 by FirstPressings

This week, I digress a little from the usual format of looking at wines and take a sideways glance at one of the hottest liquor categories in BC.  Prior to the economic downturn of the past 4 years, tequila had been on a growth spurt to the tune of almost 20% per year. Currently it is trending at about 3-4%.  Now, granted some of these sales had something to do with that ubiquitous tequila-pretender that everyone in the world is familiar with, Jose Cuervo Gold.

Gold tequilas are blended tequilas and are also known as ‘joven y abogado’ (young and adulterated), or “blended while young” tequila.  This means that it is a blanco into which caramel, fructose, glycerine and wood flavourings have been added so that it resembles aged tequila.  This is done to take the edge off an otherwise harsh, un-aged tequila and is less expensive than aging the tequila in wooden barrels. It is also not 100% Blue Agave, the plant responsibly for Tequila production.

Tequila is not nor has it ever been produced from cactus.  Where this came from, no one really knows although one could theorize to their hearts content.  No Mexican alcoholic drink is made from cactus.  Tequila is distilled from the roasted centre or piña of the blue agave plant, one of 136 species of agave that grows in Mexico.  It is what is called a succulent and is actually related to the lily/amaryllis family.  It is sometimes known as cabuya, maguey mezcal, mexic, pita or teometl and the agave used in mezcal, although similar, is harvested younger than the tequila agave.

The blue agave plant takes at least eight years to reach the point where it is suitable for fermentation and may be left for up to 12 years before harvesting; the more mature the plant, the better its natural sugars.  When ready for harvesting, the piña is cut from its stalk then taken to the distillery where they are chopped or cut in half and roasted, turning the starches in the piñas into sugar.

Some modern distilleries use steam ovens instead of roasting.  The roasted piñas are then shredded, pressed and placed in fermentation tanks or vats where yeast is added to convert the sugars into alcohol.  Some distilleries will add up to 49% cane or brown sugar so they can use immature or fewer plants.  This type of tequila can be sold in bulk for shipping out of the country and can be bottled anywhere including other countries where the regulations regarding agave content are not followed.  These tequilas are called mixto and will not be labelled 100% agave.  A good example of this is the aforementioned Jose Cuervo Gold.  Good Tequila should always be labelled as 100% agave.

All tequila is clear right after distillation.  The colour comes later from aging in wooden barrels or from additives like caramel.  The aging is broken down into five categories, silver or blanco, reposado, añejo and reserva.

  • Blanco or Silver

-This is the traditional tequila that started it all.  Clear and transparent, fresh from the still tequila is called Blanco (white or silver) and must be bottled immediately after the distillation process.  It has the true bouquet and flavour of the blue agave.  It is usually strong and is traditionally enjoyed in a “caballito” (2 oz small glass).

  • Oro or Gold

-This type of tequila that has been mellowed by the addition of colouring and flavourings, caramel being the most common.  It is the tequila of choice for frozen Margaritas.

  • Reposado or Rested

-A Blanco that has been kept (or rested) in white oak casks or vats called “pipones” for more than two months and up to one year.  The oak barrels give Reposado a mellowed taste, pleasing bouquet, and its pale colour.  Reposado keeps the blue agave taste and is gentler to the palate.  These tequilas have experienced exponential demand and high prices.

  • Añejo or Aged

-This is blanco tequila that has been aged in white oak casks for more than a year.  Maximum capacity of the casks should not exceed 600 litres (159 gallons).  The amber colour and woody flavour are picked up from the oak and the oxidation that takes place through the porous wood develops the unique bouquet and taste.

  • Reserva

-Although not a category in itself, Reserva is a special Añejo that certain distillers keep in oak casks for up to 8 years.  Reserva enters the big leagues of liquor both in taste and in price.

If you want to experience Tequila the way it should be, look for the 100% Blue Agave on the label and enjoy it as you would a single malt Scotch…neat.  No ice, water, salt or lime and definitely no fruit juice of any kind.

Tequila Picks:

All Tequila’s are Mezcal but all Mezcal is not Tequila. The Scorpion Mezcal ($70.90) is a premium double distilled quality Mezcal made in Oaxaca Mexico.  Clear and complex with baked sweet potato, scorched pine tree, grilled pineapple, and raw honey notes and a smoky nose. A soft, sound entry leads to a smooth medium body with delicate lemon grass, dried fruit, and spice flavors. The finish is long with a silky sweet, hot spicy finish.  A bold, pure Mezcal.

The Uno Mas Reposado Tequila ($49.90) is a limited production Tequila aged approximately 6 months in American oak before bottling.  A beautiful gold colour with sweet rich fruit aroma of lemon-lime, dried fruit, cedar and Jamaican-jerk, marinating spice, the palate is soft and unctuous with delicate, baked tropical fruit flavours mingle with roasted spices, nuts and pepper.  Slightly fruity, medium bodied with roasted red pepper, dried apricot fruit and cumin-spiced notes, it finishes with a spicy, salty snap and a breath of heat.

The Hornitos Reposado Tequila ($37.90) is a 100% blue agave, double distilled and aged for two months in 10,000 gallon oak vats.  The nose is full of spicy herbal fruit, white pepper and tart green apples scents along with ginger, grilled pineapple and lemon-lime to round out the nose which is anything but laid back.  The palate is full of semisweet flavours, notably caramel along with pepper, luscious tropical/citrus fruit and the herbaceous taste of agave.

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Pinot Noir

Posted on May 2, 2012 by FirstPressings

“Um, it’s a hard grape to grow, as you know.  Right?  It’s uh, it’s thin-skinned, temperamental, ripens early.  It’s, you know, it’s not a survivor like Cabernet, which can just grow anywhere and uh, thrive even when it’s neglected.  No, Pinot needs constant care and attention.  You know?  And in fact it can only grow in these really specific, little tucked away corners of the world.  And, and only the most patient and nurturing of growers can do it, really.  Only somebody who really takes the time to understand Pinot’s potential can then coax it into its fullest expression.  Then, I mean, oh its flavors, they’re just the most haunting and brilliant and thrilling and subtle and… ancient on the planet.”

-Miles played by Paul Giamatti in the 2004 film, Sideways-

Of all the grapes that intended for the making of fine wine, Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating and infuriating to work with.  Ironically, it is also one of the very best when done properly.  Aptly named the ‘heartbreak grape’, there is no other grape variety to have seduced and rejected so many lovers.  It is the grape that is responsible for the great red wines of the Burgundy region of France, great names like Bonnes Mares, Chambertin, Corton, Musigny, Richebourg, Romanée-Conti, Vougeot, and Volnay.  These are names that can send a chill down a Pinophiles backbone.

It is one of the oldest grape varieties to be used for the production of wine.  The Romans called it Helvenacia Minor and produced wine from it as early as the first century AD.  It is regarded as one of the world’s noblest of wine varieties and carries with it the heavy burden of being hard to grow, ferment, transport, store, and sometimes enjoy.  It is the most sensitive of grapes, susceptible to a variety of problems such as frost, disease, mildew, etc.  Pinot Noir ferments quite violently, often “boiling” up and out of its container, speeding the fermentation process out of control.

Through trial and error, growers and winemakers have discovered that Pinot Noir needs to grow in a climate that has warm days and cool nights.  If it receives too little heat in the growing season, its wines are thin and pale and if the growing season is too warm, the wines have an overripe, cooked flavour.

While the grape may make outstanding wine in Burgundy, it may not do very well in another region.  To that extent, Pinot Noir has been cloned to be able to adapt to different regions of the world.  A clone is a genetically distinct variation of a grape vine and is created by taking cuttings from an original mother vine and propagating new vines.  Pinot Noir, being one of the oldest varietals in the world, mutates more easily that most others so it has more clones than any other grape variety.  There are quite possible as many as 200 and up to 1000 different clones of Pinot Noir in the world.  By comparison, Cabernet Sauvignon has only twelve identifiable clones.

It is also the only grape with a festival devoted to it.  Started in late 1985 by a group of Oregon wine-lovers, winemakers, restaurateurs and retailers who visualized a premier wine event, it is held every year in McMinnville, Oregon, the heart of Oregon wine country.  Hailed by The Wine Advocate as “unquestionably the finest in the world,” the International Pinot Noir Celebration consists of three days of seminars, tastings, tours, and one-of-a-kind meals with over sixty international Pinot Noir winemakers.  This international camaraderie has brought the IPNC  much acclaim for its hospitable “summer camp” spirit.  This year’s festival is the 26th annual and will be held on July 27-29, 2012.

A lot of work goes into producing a wine, just not the planted, growing, and fermenting.  Diligent research and development is used to produce the best possible wine for the consumer to enjoy, so the next time you buy a bottle of Pinot Noir, think very seriously about what has gone into the making of that wine.

This weekend, we take a look at some excellent examples of Pinot Noir.  Enjoy.

If you are looking for a great tasting Pinot Noir, this is the one.  One of the best value wines around, the 2008 Inniskillin Black Label ($17) has a rich, silky smooth texture, ripe black cherry/strawberry fruit, creamy vanilla with hints of toast and spice.  Super-soft acidity and medium tannins on the long finish, this wine is ready to go.  Great with BBQ salmon.

The 2009 Church and State “Hollenbach Vineyard” ($29) is chock full of ripe raspberry, strawberry, and black cherry fruit aromas with hints of saddle leather, smoke, rose petal, brown sugar and vanilla/caramel.  The texture on the palate is soft, lush, and juicy with loads of red and black fruit flavours, vanilla, brown sugar, milk chocolate, toasty oak and peppery spice.  Fantastic Pinot Noir from this fantastic producer.

A delicious Pinot Noir, the 2009 See Ya Later Ranch ($20.20) displays fresh blackberry, cherry, strawberry and raspberry notes with spicy licorice, cinnamon, and hints of mushroom and saddle leather.  The palate is lush and juicy with plenty of black and red fruit flavours, spice, smoke, vanilla and caramel.  Soft with great finesse on the finish, this is another incredible value Pinot.

Just released onto the market, the 2010 Orofino ($38) is a classic Pinot Noir with its soft cranberry, cherry and strawberry aromas.  The palate is soft and juicy with a creamy mouthfeel and flavours of red fruits leather and spice.  This wine will need at least 6 months to come together but with so little produced there will be very little on the retail market.

A great tasting Pinot Noir from Burgundy, the 2008 Bichot “Old Vines” ($22) is produced from vines aged between 25 to 35 years old in the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits areas, on clay-and-limestone soils. This diversity allows for the beautiful complexity of this wine.  A velvety, silky-smooth wine displaying ripe raspberry, cherry, strawberry and cassis fruit aromas with hints of sweet licorice, menthol, vanilla and new leather, the delicate notes of red and black fruit, roses, violets, hints of vanilla and smoke balance a lush and rich texture.  Velvety soft acidity with medium tannins on the finish, this is a “drink-me-up” wine, not intended for aging.  Just invited some friends over and enjoy.  This is generous wine can stand up to a number of rich foods.  Try pairing it with salmon steaks or duck Confit with garlic-mashed potatoes.

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Spring Wines: A selection for the weekend

Posted on April 25, 2012 by FirstPressings

Finally, the warm weather has arrived in the Okanagan Valley and hopefully the rest of BC.  What this means is that now we can start wearing shorts and sandals but also it signals that it’s time for the vines to start their growth cycle.  Already buds have burst forth on numerous vineyards up and down the valley.  This is good news because it is on time for a change.  The past few years have seen a slow start and a difficult growing season.

Spring is my favourite time of the year.  Everything around us is signalling the warmer, longer days and comfortable evenings, allowing us the opportunity to play and socialize.  With this comes a slight change in the type of wines we buy and while big, hearty full-bodied reds hog the spotlight most of the year, white wines, those crisp, mouth-watering wines, are what give the wine universe its balance.

One of the images of spring ought to be that of a tall, elegant wine glass, cool moisture beading on its sides with golden liquid bubbles rising to the surface.  Sitting on the deck on a warm afternoon, waiting for the barbeque to warm up and watching the buzzing activities of nature’s stirring, one can ponder their place in the universe through a glass of sparkling wine.

A perfect choice would be the non-vintage See Ya Later Brut ($27), which is a produced in the traditional style of sparkling wine, fermented in the bottle much like the wines of the Champagne district of France.  Made from 100% Chardonnay fruit with a splash of Riesling, the wine is aged in the bottle for three years thereby offering complex, multi-layered aromas of toasted bread, apple, grapefruit, pineapple and honeydew melon, pear and peach.  The palate is fresh, lively, crisp and clean with toasted oak leading to creamy tropical and citrus fruit flavours with a citrus zestiness ending up with a racy finish.  Lots of depth and complexity in this wine, this is excellent with fresh oysters, smoked salmon, shellfish or simply enjoy on its own.

Every once in awhile a wine comes along that performs well above its price point.  The 2011 La Vuelta Syrah ($13) is just such a wine.  We paired this with grilled strip loins and it worked exceptionally well.  The wine showcases a deep ruby-red colour, floral aromas (violets), black berry, raspberry, black plum, figs, smoked sausage, leather, roasted mushrooms, spice (black pepper and cloves) and sun-dried tomato. With a velvety smooth texture, soft acidity and medium tannins, this is a VERY easy drinking red. This is definitely one wine to stock up on for summer grilling.

One of the easiest wines to enjoy on its own, the 2011 Arrowleaf Bacchus ($17) is once again the quintessential patio wine.  A cross of Riesling, Sylvaner, and Mueller-Thurgau, this varieyt produces delicious, aromatic wines with naturally low acidity yet beautifully balanced.  Look for aromas and flavours of crisp apple, grapefruit, ripe peach, nectarine, rose petal, and citrus.  Try this wine with Thai food or sushi.  Exceptional!!

Displaying a black deep crimson mauve colour with superb aromas of violets, cassis, vanilla and mocha, the 2009 Errazuriz Max Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon ($22) boasts mouth filling flavours of dark chocolate, cassis, spice and black pepper.  The finish has soft, velvety acidity, balanced by firm tannins followed by exceptionally long aftertaste of dark chocolate, violet infusions, blackcurrant and cedar.

An outstanding Barbera, the 2009 Fontanafredda Briccotondo Barbera d’Alba ($22.40) offers superb black cherry fruit mixed with hints of leather, tobacco, spice, roasted tomato skins, fresh almonds, chocolate and earthy notes.  A wine of extravagant richness as well as a complexity, it almost Medoc-like with the scent of lead pencil shavings.  A spicy, dense, fruity Barbera that can be drunk over the next decade.

A gold medal at the 2012 Chardonnay du Monde, the 2010 Sandhill Chardonnay ($20) is sourced from the spectacular Sandhill Family Estate vineyard in the southern Okanagan.  This wine is loaded with rich aromas of buttery Fuji apple, pear, pineapple, with spicy white pepper and a lush creamy palate.  The texture is rich and creamy with lots of tropical and orchard fruit flavours with spicy white pepper, nutmeg, vanilla and honey.  This is a rich style of Chardonnay, more in keeping with a Meursault.  The finish is crisp and clean with an almost Chablis-like minerality to it.

Finding a decent Pinot Noir is sometimes a hit and miss, such are the problems but to find one that really stands out is a Pinophiles dream come true.  The 2009 Veramonte Pinot Noir ($20) was one of the hits at the 2012 Vancouver International Wine Festival. The aromas are pure decadent pleasure with its rich cherry, raspberry, smoke leather, forest floor characteristics and subtle spicy oak.  The texture is pure Burgundian, soft, velvety and rich with a stunningly long, long finish.  Superb with rich meat/game dishes with mushroom-based sauces.

Upcoming Wine Events:

I can’t emphasize enough that the 18th Annual Okanagan Spring Wine Festival is right around the corner, running from April 29th until May 8th.  This ten-day festival offers everyone an opportunity to experience the finest of food and wine in the Okanagan.  And what a better way to announce the grape growing season than to hold a Festival during bud break!

Choose from an incredible 100 plus events throughout the Okanagan at a time of year when it is an absolute delight to savour spring in the warm sunshine.  The Okanagan Spring Wine Festival has been described as “one of Canada’s best small festivals” and it is no wonder that its success continues to grow.  Check out their website at www.owfs.com for a list of events and dinners or pick up a brochure at select wine shops.  See you there!!

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Riesling. A brief look at the perfect warm weather white.

Posted on April 11, 2012 by FirstPressings

With the warm weather approaching, the style of wine that we usually get pleasure from tends to change.  Gone are the heavy reds that we enjoyed with winter meals.  Now we are looking for something a little more refreshing.  And of all the grape varieties used in the production of wine, one of the most misunderstood and under-rated is Riesling.  Long considered one of the ‘noble’ grape varieties, it produces wines of elegance and sophistication that can run the gamut from bone dry to very sweet.

With its delicious tropical and orchard fruit flavours of grapefruit, peach, pear, apple and lime, Riesling complements a wide range of foods and offers a variety of characteristics, from easy-drinking fruity summer wines, to liquid conundrums that assault the palate with their hedonistic texture.

Certain wine-producing regions have demonstrated the ability to produce top-notch Riesling.  Without a doubt, the finest come from Germany where, like BC, they are particularly suited to the cooler climate (the vines are particularly hard-wooded and are tolerant of cold weather).

The best of these is considered to come from the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer or Mosel for short. Here the wines are traditionally low in alcohol (7.5-9.5%) and have a perfect balance between acidity, freshness of flavour and aromatic richness. Some can age better than any other white wines and will develop astounding complexity over time without losing the vivaciousness that makes them so appealing in their youth.

A way word of caution, though. Like any major purchase, a little due diligence goes a long way. Do your research on any wines you are designating for your cellar and long-term storage.

After Germany, Alsace is the next best source of great Riesling, particularly in those vineyard sites that have been designated Grand Cru. This is the most Germanic region of France and it is the only region in France where the Riesling grape is permitted. Here the variety makes an ideal aperitif and it tends to be drier, more powerful and have a higher alcohol level (often 12%) compared with its German counterpart.

Dry, refined and delicately fruity, the aromas are elegant and sophisticated with mineral or floral notes and can have all the characteristics of great white Burgundies with a dose of crisp acid, giving it good aging potential. They are a perfect match with shellfish appetizers, cured meats and heavy cuisines of all types.

BC Riesling is probably best known for the Icewine produced from it. However, there is a whole different world of Riesling available to the consumer all you have to do is look. The aromas and flavours of BC Riesling are stunning to say the least and because this variety is a late ripener, it shows very well in BC and especially around the Kelowna area.

One of the finest I’ve had is from the former Pinot Reach winery, now Tantalus. I have had the chance to sample a selection of the Rieslings from this vineyard dating from 1994, ’96, ’97, ’99 and 2000 and to say that BC Rieslings do not age well this proves that myth wrong.

Australia is the country more known for its Shiraz but the Rieslings from Australia are one of a kind. They are typically dry and light bodied with refreshing acidity. Always un-wooded, some of the best Australian Riesling are produced in the cool climate Clare and Eden Valleys and in Coonawarra were they make wines that are intensely aromatic with citrus and tropical fruit and a palate that is bone dry with crisp acidity. They display the characteristics of the grape that we expect: the perfume, the complexity and the zestiness but its dryness makes it a superior match to food.

So join the ABC crowd (Anything But Chardonnay) and discover what Riesling holds for you. It’s the perfect wine, whether it is winter or summer, just right to enjoy with family and friends. Better still, if it has a screw cap or Stelvin closure, it will keep the wine fresh and lively. But that’s another story.

Riesling Wine Picks:

There are only about 90 cases left out of over 700 of the 2010 Orofino Riesling ($25).  Sourced from the winery owner John and Virginia Weber’s own 21-year-old vines along with Riesling from the nearby 5 year-old Scout vineyard and neighbour’s Lee and Cheryl Hendsbee’s 4 year old vineyard, this is a great tasting Riesling, loaded with buckets of fresh green apple, lime, white peach, pear, nectarine with hints of honey, clover, orange and mango.  The palate and texture is lush and juicy with intense orchard and tropical fruit and an almost creamy mouth, while the finish is tart and crisp making this a perfect wine to pair with spicy Asian dishes or Indian curries.  This is one of the finer wines from the difficult 2010 vintage.

One of the best Riesling’s in BC, the 2010 Wild Goose Riesling ($19) explodes with fresh aromas of ripe grapefruit, pineapple, white peach, red apple, and lime with hints of apricot, nectarine and honey. Loaded with buckets of juicy tropical and orchard fruit, the super-zesty acidity is almost spritzy with its cleansing, mouth-watering vibrancy. A fantastic example of great BC Riesling, there is very little of this left at the retail level as the 2011 is about to be released so grab some while you can.

Winner of the Lieutenant Governor’s Awards for Excellence in British Columbia Wines, the 2009 St. Hubertus Riesling ($18) is a delicious wine bursting with vibrant aromas of green apple, peach, pear, apricot, nectarine, lime, with hints of tropical pineapple and grapefruit.  The palate is brimming with honeyed apple, peach, pear, with a soft, luscious texture and crisp acidity on the creamy, lingering finish.  Very hard not to guzzle this wine it is so decadent.

The 2010 Monster Riesling ($22) is stunning.  Produced as a second label of sorts for the iconic Poplar Grove Winery, this is a straw-gold colour, loaded with summer aromatics of peach, pear, apple and nectarine with hints of lime and mineral. Not exactly on the tropical side of the flavour spectrum, it is more a blend of old world Mosel with new world Aussie Riesling. The palate is just slightly off-dry but vibrant with tons of juicy orchard fruit, a hint of petrol notes and crisp, clean, refreshing acidity on the finish.  I know all this because I have a glass of the Monster Riesling while I’m typing this note. I love my job.

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An Article About Pinot Gris

Posted on April 4, 2012 by FirstPressings

Here is a wine question for you.  What do the grape varieties Tokay d’Alsace, Grauburgunder, Pinot Gris, Grauer Mönch, Pinot Grigio and Ruländer all have in common?  Give up?  They are all the synonyms of the same grape.  A genetic mutation of the red grape, Pinot Noir, it is known by these names throughout Europe.

In Italy, the grape is called Pinot Grigio and is produced in a leaner style while Pinot Gris as made in France, Germany, California, Oregon, BC and other New World areas tend to be fuller-bodied, with a certain opulence and an almost oiliness which adds to the wine’s texture and finish.

When fully ripe, the colour of the grape can range from bluish grey to light pinkish brown and it is not unusual to have clusters with a variety of colours.  In fact, the name “Gris” means grey in French while “Pinot” means “pine cone” referring to the pine cone shape of the clusters.

In Italy, the wine is light-bodied, often lean with refreshing apple, pear, and lemon-lime and sometimes with a spritzy, crisp, acidic texture.  Grown mainly in the Friuli region of north-eastern Italy, this area produces the largest quantity in the world and the style of wine was originally meant to compliment the Slovenian-influenced cuisine of the area.

In Hungary, the variety is known as Badacsony Szürkebarát after the region (Badacsony) and the English translation for Szürkebarát, which is Grey Monk.  In fact, there used to be a wine sold in BC called Badacsony Szürkebarát and I remember it as being quite a refreshingly delicious summer wine.

German Pinot Gris is called Ruländer or Grauburgunder and is most commonly found in the southwest regions of Baden and Pfalz.  Ruländer is often used to denote the sweeter version while Grauburgunder is more associated with drier, Burgundy-style versions.

Some of the finest quality of Pinot Gris comes from the Alsace region of eastern France.  Here it was called Tokay d’Alsace (no relation to the Hungarian Tokay or Tokai).  The Alsatians value it as a full-bodied wine that can balance the richness of their food without introducing any flavours of its own.  Beginning with the 2006 vintage, Tokay d’Alsace is now called Pinot Gris as part of the agreement for Hungary’s accession to the EU.

In North America, one would look to Oregon as the instigator to the Pinot Gris craze.  There as with BC this early ripening variety is heat-sensitive grape and prefers the long, moderate summer days with cool nights and an even cooler fall.  Picked early, the wine tends to be light, fruity and acidic much in the “Grigio” style while extended hang-time will bring out the rich, sweeter tropical fruit aromas and flavours.  In hotter climates, it can ripen too fast.

Here in BC, Pinot Gris has become the largest planted white grape, with 1066 acres planted (almost 23% of total white grapes, (2011 BC Grape Acreage Report) while Chardonnay is bumped to second place with 917 acres.  Previously, Pinot Gris was often referred to as “the other white wine” and there is a very good reason for the increased popularity of this wine.  Unlike its Italian cousin, it tends to be very fruit-forward and unlike the Oregon version, very much less expensive.

Here is a selection to tempt your palate.

Some of the wines from the 2011 vintage are starting to hit store shelves and the 2011 Hester Creek Pinot Gris ($19) is one of them.  A deliciously, well-made wine, look for loads of orchard and tropical fruit such as ripe apple, pear, grapefruit and papaya with sweet lemon, honey and honeydew melon.  The palate has a hint of sweetness but is balanced by the crisp acidity.  Excellent wine.

Loaded to the brim with luscious fruit aromas, the 2011 Wild Goose Pinot Gris ($21) is full of pink grapefruit, apricot, pear, Fuji apple with peach, nectarine and a hint of honey.  The flavours of citrus and tropical fruit and honey carry on and on through to the soft, slightly off-dry finish.  Superb with pan-seared jumbo prawns or scallops with garlic butter, Basa fillets or Fettuccine Alfredo.

The 2011 Lake Breeze Pinot Gris ($20) is another winner.  A big aromatic wine displaying loads of green apple, pear, apricot, peach, nectarine, melon, fresh citrus and grapefruit characteristics, the palate is fresh and lively with crisp tropical and orchard fruit, spicy white pepper, an unctuous texture and crisp acidity.

The Tollo Pinot Grigio ($13/1L) is a brilliant green-tinged colour with a fresh, crisp red apple, citrus, mineral, white peach, creamy pear and toasted almonds. This is a light-styled Pinot Grigio, fresh and well balanced with good depth, fine acidity and balance with a long, attractive finish. Serve with shellfish, Paella, pasta or chicken salads.

Wine News:

Be sure to purchase your tickets early for the 18th Annual Okanagan Spring Wine Festival, running from May 3rd to May 13th.  This ten-day festival offers everyone an opportunity to experience the finest of food and wine in the Okanagan.  And what a better way to celebrate the growing season than to hold a Festival during bud break!

Choose from an incredible 100 plus events throughout the Okanagan at a time of year when it is an absolute delight to savour spring in the warm sunshine.  The Okanagan Spring Wine Festival has been described as “one of Canada’s best small festivals” and it is no wonder that its success continues to grow.  Check out their website at www.thewinefestivals.com for a list of events and dinners or pick up a brochure at select wine shops.  You can also find the brochure on-line here.  See you there!!

If you have any questions about wine, beer or spirits, just email me.

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Malbec

Posted on March 28, 2012 by FirstPressings

Walk into any wine shop and you should be able to tell which grape varieties are the most popular.  Go to Australian and you will a plethora of Shiraz along with some Cabernet and Chardonnay.  Check out the U.S. and Cabernet and Chardonnay tend to be the most popular.  However, there is one variety that is gaining respect from North American consumers and it is taking the wine world by storm especially here in BC and that is Malbec.  And no more is this evident than in the Argentine wine section.

Long known for the Tango, Evita, and its great beef, Argentina has also been cultivating its image and educating consumers as a serious wine producer and competitor to neighbouring Chilean vineyards.  Amid its other vinous offerings, no wine has become more associated with Argentina than Malbec.

Originally grown throughout France, it has other synonyms such as Auxerrois, Cot or Malbeck.  In Bordeaux, it is one of the “big five” of red wine grapes, a staple component of the red wines.  However, its fame and fortune often ended there.  It was largely a failure in France because of vine disease and major frost damage in 1956. Winemakers generally used it for blending with very little vine being devoted to its improvement or success.

Ironically enough, Malbec has seen a renaissance of sorts in France, largely due to its success in Argentina and it is now being grown successfully in the southwestern region of France, in Cahors.  This wine used to be black as coal and tough as leather but improvements in viticultural and vinification techniques have led to riper, softer, more approachable wines that are now amongst the best of the region.

The story in Argentina is quite the opposite.  Vine cuttings were imported to Argentina in the late 1800’s where it found fame and glory and has turned into the premier wine.  It acquires different characteristics according to the weather and soil conditions where it is grown and in certain areas, it reaches its highest development, surpassing other regions in the country.

It flourishes in Mendoza, a region of Argentina adjacent to the Andes that receives very little rainfall, and were it not for the ready supply of water from the Andes snowcap, viticulture would not be possible.

Another important factor is altitude.  The vineyards in the Mendoza Valley are quite elevated, with the highest vineyards receiving the extra UV light that the grapes need to develop thicker skins, with more tannins (softer tannins, too), as well as more colour.  The night time cooling effect of these high altitude vineyards means that the grapes preserve acidity even when they are allowed to hang for quite a while before harvest.

Characterized by a spicy, dark fruit, these Malbec wines can be complex, intense, and worthy of aging.  In fact, they can compete with Bordeaux several times the price.

The country that has been called the “sleeping giant” of the global wine industry by Wine Spectator magazine is now poised to have its excellent wines available on an international scale.

April 17 is Malbec World Day so pick up a bottle of this delicious varietal and discover new territory.

Malbec Picks:

As the popularity of this varietal has exploded so too will the number of poor examples that show up on store shelves, more than likely with splashy labels.  And while these wines are relatively inexpensive, just imagine what they would cost without the punishing 123% tax imposed by the BCLDB, the provincial liquor monopoly.

The 2008 Sur de Los Andes ($17) is loaded with ripe blackcurrant, black plum, tobacco leaf, licorice, mushroom, and violet aromas.  The palate is rich and hedonistic with its velvety, supple texture, spicy black fruit flavours and an intense smoky/peppery characteristic not usually found in a wine at this price.  Offers a great introduction to Malbec and far exceeds its price point.

You could have great difficulty finding another Malbec that competes with the 2011 Casa de Campo ($12) at this price for depth, breadth, complexity, and length.  The colour is almost a dark purple, aroma of black raspberries, black currants, crushed dried berries, cocoa, and grilled meat.  On the mid-palate, the wine is pure, supple, and medium to full-bodied with flavours that are an extension of the aromas intertwined with plums, chocolate and toasty oak.  This wine is incredibly versatile with food and is a tremendous value.

The colour of the 2010 Graffigna Reserve ($15) is a stunning wine boasting black plum, cassis, blackberry, black cherry, with rich vanilla, chocolate, roasted mushrooms, and tobacco leaf.  The palate is richly textured with ripe black fruit flavours, roasted red pepper, leather, tobacco leaf, chocolate pudding, vanilla, and spicy pepper.  Outstanding!!

The 2011 La Chamiza ($14) is another great value red from Argentina.  Absolutely incredible, look for aromas of smoked meat (think pastrami), loads of juicy, spicy blackberry, cassis, dried black olives, anise and leather.  The palate is soft and velvety with medium to full-bodied with silky smooth acidity and medium tannin.

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An Article on Zinfandel

Posted on March 21, 2012 by FirstPressings

Of all the grapes grown in California, none has had a more confusing history and heredity than Zinfandel.  Its origins had been disputed for decades.  While almost all the grapes that produce wines in the United States originate from varieties from France such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier, one of the exceptions is Zinfandel.

Zinfandel has been called California’s “mystery grape” because its origins were unknown.  It was once believed that Count Agoston Haraszthy, a Hungarian nobleman who founded Buena Vista Winery in Sonoma County, introduced Zinfandel to California in the 1860s.  Another early theory was that Zinfandel originated in England as a table grape, was brought to New England in the 1830’s, and made its way to the West Coast.  Some vine researchers have also claimed that Zinfandel originated in southern Italy’s Apulia region, where the genetically related Primitivo di Goia variety is widely grown.  Further research has also suggested a possible parent/offspring relationship with the Plavic Mali grape from Croatia.

What is now generally agreed upon is that Zinfandel (as well as Primitivo) is most likely from the west coast province of Dalmatia, in Croatia.  In 2001, DNA analysis confirmed that Primitivo and Zinfandel are both derived from a locally grown variety by the name of Crljenak Kasteljanski (pronounced tsurl-yenak kas-tel-yanskee).  The genetic linkage between Primitivo and Zinfandel has been supported by the work of both Croatian and University of California, Davis researchers.  However, despite being genetically alike, over the long period spent geographically separated, slight differences have evolved between the two.

Despite these differences however, the Zinfandel name is truly North American and actually has a longer history in the United States than Primitivo has in Italy.  The first Zinfandel vines arrived at a Long Island nursery about 1829, while Primitivo can be traced back to Italy only from the 1850s or 1860s.  The earliest and only documented use of the name is when a Boston nursery owner advertised Zinfandel for sale in 1832.  It was subsequently introduced to California during the Gold Rush somewhere between 1852 and 1857 and became widely planted because it thrived so well in the climate and soil.

Although Zin as it is affectionately known,  had its early difficulties in popularity, it became enormously popular in the 1970s and 1980s thanks to Bob Trinchero of Napa Valley’s Sutter Home Winery.  In 1972, he decided to try draining some juice from one of his vats in order to impart more tannin and colour to his Deaver Vineyard Zinfandel.  He vinified this juice as a dry wine, and tried to sell it under the name of Oeil de Perdrix, a French wine made by this Saignée method.  The BATF insisted on an English translation, so he added “White Zinfandel” to the name, and sold 220 cases.

At the time, demand for white wine exceeded the availability of white wine grapes, encouraging other California producers to make “white” wine from red grapes, with minimal skin contact.  However, in 1975, Trinchero’s wine experienced a stuck fermentation, a problem in which the yeast dies off before all the sugar is converted to alcohol.  He put the wine aside for two weeks, then tasted it and decided to sell this pink, sugary wine.

Little did he know of the impact that decision would have over the next 25-30 years.  Boy, did he start a trend.  White Zinfandel is still popular today but perhaps more important, it put red Zinfandel back into the spotlight.

Today, Zinfandel is the third leading wine grape variety in California with a 8.9% share of the total harvest according to the 2011 California Grape Crush Report.  It has been called America’s wine because it is a very important variety in the California.  In February of 2006, California Senator Carole Migden actually introduced legislation to name Zinfandel as California’s official state wine.  (In August of that year, the Governator, Arnold Schwarzenegger, vetoed Senator Carole Migden’s bill.)  Even though it is made in various wine regions around the world such as Australia, South Africa and even BC, it is just a minor player in these regions.

Now, more than 100 years later, many of those old Zinfandel vines still exist in California, yielding wines of great power and intense flavour.  It is one red variety that can be enjoyed in its youth, within three to five years of the vintage or aged for a decade or more when produced from the best fruit from a great year.  It is the perfect BBQ red and when paired with grilled steaks, lamb, pork chops or meat that has been braised, Zinfandel becomes a prime motivation for people to become wine-lovers.

Zinfandel Picks:

Lodi is to Zinfandel what Napa is to Cabernet. Lodi Zins are big wines with great depth and complexity.  This wine comes from vineyards with not just old vines but ancient vines, some 100 years old.  The vines are low yielding but provide fruit of excellent quality.  A big wine for the price, the 2010 Flying Winemaker Old Vine Zinfandel ($23) is loaded with complex aromas of black cherry, raspberry, red plums and cassis with hints of raspberry jam, smoke, Asian spice and a smooth vanilla-scented oakiness.   Rich and full on the palate with ripe cherry, blackberry, plums, spice and a hint of vanilla culminating in a lingering finish.  Soft, chewy tannins add to the luscious texture of this excellent wine.

The Marietta Lot #54 Old Vine Red NV ($28) is a Zinfandel-based blend made with fruit that comes mostly from Sonoma and Mendocino counties.  First released over 30 years ago in the early days of Marietta Cellars, the wine displays an brilliant ruby red colour showcasing its young and concentrated structure.  A vibrant wine with aromas of blackberry, raspberry, dark chocolate, dried figs, and prunes, the palate is soft yet full and rich with lots of black fruit, velvety soft acidity and a long, rich, full finish with notes of vanilla and fig.

The 2010 Ironstone Old Vine Zinfandel ($22) displays aromas of clove, white pepper, blueberry, and blackberry jam that leads into a mouthful of fruity blackberry, licorice, cedar, and sweet spice.  With the addition of little Petite Syrah, which gives it the characteristic supple tannins and concentrated fruit flavours, the wine displays more heft while maintaining an appealing, easy-drinking quality.  A better than average barbecue red at a fair price.

Produced from 60—80 year old head-trained, dry farmed Zinfandel vines, the 2009 Bogle Old Vine Zinfandel ($29) is aged for 12 months in American Oak barrels.  Sourced from Lodi and Amador County, this old vine Zinfandel is jam-packed with deep, rich brambly fruit characteristics of blackberry, raspberry, black cherry, clove, pepper and licorice notes.  The black and red fruit flavours of blackberry, raspberry and black cherry with cocoa and vanilla nuances are well-integrated with the soft, supple and peppery texture.  The finish is clean with hints of rich vanilla, cocoa, and mild tannins.  Great with barbecue, Cajun fare, braised short ribs and rustic Italian cuisine.

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